I decided to do some work on the engine bay of my '77 Datsun 280Z. I would like to know whether it is possible to remove the vacuum lines from the system, and if so, what would be the effect on the AC system? If I understand it correctly, the AC selector and mode doors are mechanically operated and vacuum lines assist in opening (i) the air intake door and (ii) the mode door?
View 10 RepliesTop and bottom left. Where the 2 vac lines on the rear diff/haldex unit goes?
View 1 RepliesSo here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
So, my original pump finally died and I replaced it....however upon doing so I realize there is a leak/crack in the lines as it never shuts off (explains why the factory one died).
After a bit of troubleshooting, I've discovered the leak HAS to be down in the passenger fender where the black and grey lines travel over the blower housing and go straight down up against the inner fender wall.
Where doe these come out or connect? I clearly cant get a hand down in there...does the inner fender well have to come out to access this? or is there a junction box/splitter somewhere accessible?
I have manual hubs on my truck. Can I pull those vacuum lines and plug the holes?
View 9 RepliesTime to replace the aging vacuum lines to the 4wd and probably anywhere I can find the old rubber stuff.
What is the size of the lines and are they mostly the same?
I'd like to order a roll so I can make ones like the front hubs longer, stuff like that.
Looking for a pic of where the 2 vacuum lines go off the IMCR on a 2002 ranger 2.3. Changed engines now not sure where these hoses go.
View 2 RepliesI've got the front of the excursion done with my spring swap finally and now it's onto the rear. How do I move these ac lines along the passenger side to get them out of the way from that shackle bolt? I see the brackets holding them but since they are all hard lines how many do I have to remove?
View 3 RepliesI have a 1997 4.2 and when i got it the big vacuum reservoir under the passenger fender had the lines broke off. Where these lines go or have a diagram...
View 1 RepliesI got a question, what is after ac hose vacuum left side on a 10 th gen 4.2l engine bay by the firewall, to the right of the blue thing, right of that on that line their is a 2 end diameter rubber vacuum line? What is that called, I need a replacement.
View 7 RepliesTruck has been neglected for a while so this upgrade/repair I installed Powerstop brake rotor, caliper, bracket and pads. New Timkin wheel bearing, Moog U-Joints, and new inner/outer axle seals. Also replaced all the brake hoses and the remaining original rusty brake lines. About a month before I replaced the failed Auto/Manual vacuum operated locking hubs with Mile Marker units, which do not need the vacuum line, the drivers side was missing. and was letting water into the wheel bearing. So I decided to plug them and remove the vacuum lines from under the hood as well.
If there is interest I can get pictures of the vacuum lines, and what I changed under the hood. That was pretty self explanatory.
Could not find a google search for the thread size of the vacuum nipple in the knuckle. It is a 3/8"-24 fine thread.
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I don't have any leaks at the moment, but after inspecting my vacuum lines they're starting to look brittle and I want to replace them proactively. Is there a kit to do this or should I just cut a section off and take it in to an auto parts store to match the size, and buy it by the foot?
View 2 RepliesI noticed that one of my vacuum lines was bad on the driver's side. I've done a lot of reading on the 4WD systems and frankly I'm confused now. My understanding is that when in 2WD the solenoid is open pulling a vacuum on the actuators (IWE) which keeps them disengaged. When you switch to 4WD the shift motor on the transfer case sends power to the front wheels and the solenoid turns off the vacuum which engages the actuators sending power to the wheels. Therefore if there is a vacuum leak the actuators won't disengage properly.
Through my trouble shooting I've determined that I think the solenoid is working properly because I'm getting a vacuum when in 2WD and no vacuum in 4WD. I believe that both actuators are engaged and working properly when in 4WD. However, I must not be getting a vacuum to the driver's side actuator (hub) because the line is totally busted up and can't possibly hold a vacuum. However the passenger side line looks good to me. Does this mean that I've been driving around in "3WD"??? I don't seem to have any problems when in 2WD turning (no tire skip or hop).
I just had a former Ford tech rebuild my motorcraft 2150 2v on my '77 F250. I took it home, put it back on the truck and it ran kind of rough. I then went ahead and screwed both idle mix screws in untill seated, then back out two turns. The truck ran great, turned off truck then when it the house for dinner. Half an hour later I come back out...truck will not start, just sits and cranks. Finally got it started and it ran good, but crapped out after it warmed up. I have made sure there were no vac leaks when truck was running the first time. Did I adjust the mixture right?
The truck is a '77 F250 400/C6
Have a 1977 ford f150 with 351m with a motorcraft 2150. Had ( who I believe was a reliable source ) rebuild carburetor for me and after putting back on I can only keep engine running with foot on pedal. I turn idle mixture screws all way in and then proceeded to back out equally. This does not appear to be doing anything. I did turn the choke 2 notches to lean and was able to get it to idle but it wasloping so bad i shut it down and put the choke back to the middle setting.
View 13 RepliesI noticed last night while messing with my truck that I have a constant small spark on my throttle linkage on my carb. BTW, it's a 77F250 with a quick fuel Ethanol carb with an electronic choke. That really probably don't make a difference anyway. Is this a common thing and do I need to run a grounding wire from the carb to the rest of the engine?
View 2 RepliesOk, I have 1997 Ford Ranger, 4cyl, manual transmission, and more miles than I'd like to admit to.
Yesterday, I noticed that one of the vacuum lines was coming dangerously close to hitting the serpentine belt on the front of the engine. The clamp that normally holds the vacuum line in place rusted away a decade ago, so I decided to use some velcro ties to attach the line to the positive battery cable. I didn't twist or pull on the cable in any way and the vacuum line isn't applying any force to the cable.
I get in the truck a few hours later, hit the key and I get >click<, but nothing out of the starter. One click when the key is in the start position, nothing more (as opposed to click-click-click).
Not thinking about my repair earlier, I went down to Autozone and had them test the battery - 12.8V and 550CCA, no problem there.
So then, I thought well since the click is coming from the starter relay, maybe that's where the problem is. I read on another forum that sometimes the starter relay can be resurrected temporarily by hitting it with a hammer. Which I did. And it did work! Now the truck is starting up normally every time, but I'd like to replace whatever was bad.
My questions :
1. Did I prove anything by hitting the starter relay with a hammer and then starting the truck?
2. Should I still be looking at the battery cables?
3. Should I stop hitting random parts with a hammer and take this truck down to a real mechanic before I do serious damage?
I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
View 14 RepliesI have a 77 ford f100 I am restoring. I have two factory am/fm radios. I bench test both with antenna male plug all the way in, and the fm works fine on both radios. The only way to get am to work, is to slide the male antenna plug all the way out till it is just touching, then if I jiggle it, the radio plays.
View 1 RepliesI have a 77 f-250 with a 460 engine and a 4bbl Motorcraft carb and its leaking a substantial amount of fuel out of the newly replaced filter that is attached to the carburetor. The fitting is tight and I even tried buying some small gaskets to seat it, but that didn't work either.
View 1 RepliesI have a leak in my A/C system. It is completely discharged. I bought some o-rings from my Ford dealer, but the system does not hold a vacuum. Is there an o-ring kit available somewhere so I can replace all of the o-rings in my a/c lines?
View 14 Replies