Daewoo - Lanos :: 2001 - Dies While Driving And Won't Start
Jun 24, 2012
I own a 2001 Daewoo Lanos S which has about 96k miles.
Today, I was driving my car home and it just died with no warning or anything. I drove it earlier to work and back and even an extra stop and didn't even could tell that there was something wrong. The power didn't go out though like from the battery. I then tried to start it back up and it won't start now. Like the engine can't get that kick to start up. I was told the oil valve gasket(?) was leaking, but I checked it everytime before I drove it and it did have oil in the car. Also, I have had the problem of smelling gas inside the car when I fill it up (fuel filter??) I know that the Lanos did have a recall over the crankshaft sensor, so could that be it? I just don't have a lot of money to spend on random parts that won't fix it nor (unless I absolutely have to) go to a mechanic since I live with one, just need the part(s).
Was so excited too because I just found a replacement for my passenger window regulator.
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We had a Hyundai with the same problem. Every time my nephew fills the tank when he goes to start it he has to gun the engine and it takes several attempts to start. Mechanic changed some fitting but it didn't do the trick. Only happens after tank is filled. Other than that car runs fine. Only 45k miles.
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Well i was driving the other night home and all of the sudden my 02 2.7 Awd Santa Fe dies and wont start back up. Of all places it dies on a hill around a big turn in front of a grave yard. I mean it didn't make and funny sounds or anything just died. What the problem could be. I just replaced the cam sensor last week, I have read that it could be the crankshaft sensor or even timing belt. It does have higher miles 189k.
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My 01 mustang gt which I have never had any problems with, well one day while coming home from school out of nowhere it didn't want to start at all ,all it did was a "clank" noise and I thought it was the battery so I got a friend to pass me cables but it still didn't start , but its a stick shift and I know that most of the time they start with a little push and it turned on and I was able to make it home but when I tried turning it on again it would just make a "clank" noise so I assumed it was the starter so I replaced it but it still didn't start so I went ahead and bought a new battery and now it started ,so I thought the problem was fixed but the next day around 7pm after using it for a while throughout the day all my electrical power shut down even my dashboard didn't mark anything but the car kept running until I made it home so I turned it off and tried turning it back on but it wouldn't start like the battery didn't have any power to make it start because the engine was trying so I left my battery charging for a couple of hours and it turned back on so I tried going to the corner store today but now my car shut down completely it left me on the middle of the street i got a friend to pull me and when I got home I charged my battery again and it runs again so I thought ok this has to be the alternator so I removed It and took it to O'Reilly auto parts and got it tested but it passed the test they told me it was good so what it might be ?
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Car basics: 1992 Chevrolet S104 cylinder2.5 L
Have in the last 4 months replaced :
(1)fuel filter
(2)fuel pump and spark plugs
(3)EGR Valve
(4) Vacuum lines (possible vacuum leak)
Problem: Car will turn off while driving, sometimes after a service engine light comes on. Usually at 40-65 mph, car will shut off with electricity still working. When I attempt to start the car afterward it will turn over, but will not catch. Have had to be towed twice, other times, we waiting we it out, came back later and it started up just fine.
Attempts to solve: Various points I've brought it into a AAA shop, and they were unable to figure it out without the check engine light on (pre-1996). I finally did get the codes read, and they were for the EGR Valve, and the MAP sensor. EGR replaced, test on MAP sensor showed no problems afterwards. codes were cleared.
Yesterday: Last night the car turned off randomly on me again, and had to get towed home, today it took a few tries, but then the car started up just fine. Took it to the shop, they reattached a loose wire from the spark plugs, and are asking me to replace the (1)wiring, (2) coils, and (3) rotor head but without the check engine light on this morning, they are not 100% sure where the problem exists. The car sometimes runs fine, but since I am going to be working pretty far from home, I need reliable transportation. Everything else is in great shape on my little pickup, but this has been racking my head for a bit.
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Got this truck used, it is a 2001 F150 4 door lariat 5.4, 4x4. It now has around 108k miles on it. The truck dies while driving down the road every couple weeks or so. It will restart after a minute or so and then seems to be fine. The ABS light is on, no codes or CE light.
The last couple months while your going down the road it revs up to 4k rpms or so while your driving like the OD is turning off. The other day it wouldn't start in the morning, I changed the fuel pump relay and it fired right up. I put the old relay back in and it still fired up!!!!
I decided to take it to the dealer today and on the way to town it shifted out of gear while driving at speed, the speedo turned off and the odometer turned off as well. I shifted to N and then back to D, nothing, I hit the OD button and it flashed but still no go so I coasted to a stop, truck was running at idle.
I turned it off, restarted and everything worked just fine again and went on my way to the dealer. Still no CE lights.
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When car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after - cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
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We have a 2003 Grand Prix. For the last few years it has this intermittent problem. Sometimes it just won't start and occasionally it will die while stopped at an intersection. I did some digging online and found out what the likely culprit is, but do not know how to fix it. I already spent a lot of money for a mechanic to claim he fixed it, but didn't.
According to online sources [URL] .... the security system TDM is at fault. It stops recognizing the VATS transponder in the key and thinks the car is being stolen. So, it cuts the connection to the engine. Clearly a dangerous situation if you are driving. My 17 yo daughter recently got stuck in a very busy intersection.
The temporary fix is to turn the key to the on position without turning the engine, wait 10 minutes then try starting the car. This is supposed to reset the security system. Now this is starting to not work. Someone suggested bypassing or modulating the TDM signal by adding in a resistor. I really don't feel equipped to do this though. Another solution is to buy a bypass module.
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I have a 2005 Camry and it was stalling while driving occasionally. It had gotten worse, so I cleaned the throttle body as was suggested. Now, when I try to start it, the engine revs really high then goes back down and dies. This is without putting any pressure on the accelerator. What to do next?
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I was driving my sport trac when it suddenly died on me. We are leaning toward the fuel pump. But is there any other causes for fuel to not get to the engine? We changed the fuel filter out already...
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I purchased a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo at a steal . . . I've already replaced the head gasket sealant. My biggest current concern is the fuel pressure. The car either starts up beautifully or sputters and gurgles for a good 5 seconds before finally idling normally (either occur during cold or warm starts).
The sputtering at start-up has become more commonplace as of late. If I drive away without providing a good three-to-five minute warm-up, the car will drive as normal while applying gas pressure to the peddle, then once gas pressure is no longer applied, the car dies silently; The battery stays on, but all power steering and engine power disappear and the car coast into nothingness. If I allow the Jeep to warm up significantly, it will drive as normal for hours, except for it's struggles to compensate long upward hills.
The fuel regulator has a slight leak. Worse at start-up, lessens up over time. The seal may be improperly seated, but is in physical working condition as I can tell. Spark plugs were replaced. Battery was replaced. Injectors have been tightened. There is a slight oil leak (it seems to move around a bit), but is far better since the Head Gasket was replaced. Could this be a bad fuel regulator or something else that I have missed?
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Im working on a 2001 arctic cat 300. After it is started it will run fine for 5-20 sec. 5 sec at idle, and around 20 with more throttle, then it starts to stutter and sounds like a two stroke. If I open the throttle too much, it just dies on me. The interesting thing is that if I restart it, it will run fine for another 20 sec.
The trick I have found to get it running like it should, is to open the trottle very slowly over a period of as much as 5 minutes. After that it will run perfect! The air temperature is that of a typical norwegian summer, ie in the 60s. But it shouldnt take THAT long to warm up. lol
The engine is a four stroke, single cylinder, cv carb, electronic ignition. The carb is the keihin cvk32. What could cause this kind of problems? I have of course taken apart the carb, and cleaned it.
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I am experiencing a new problem with my 2006 Hyundai Elantra. For the 2nd time now (meaning this morning) the car will not start the first time in the morning. As I turn the key past the "on" position all the regular lights will come on, bells ding, etc. but when I move the key to the "Start" position, where the car would normally crank over and start, the entire car electrical system dies. (Interior lights off, non-responsive with the keyless entry, etc.) Yesterday, I figured my battery cables might be loose or something like that. By the time I popped the hood (no more than 30-45 sec) everything turned back on. I then tried to start the car again and the car started normally without issues, with me having done nothing other than pop the hood by this time.
When my car sits all day at work and I return to leave it will start normally without problems. This morning is now the 2nd time this has happened. My battery is practically brand new as it was replaced about three weeks ago. So, my question is: What could be causing the car to not start in the morning the first time, but then somehow "fix" itself without any user intervention on my part other than popping the hood?
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My 2002 F250 7.3 randomly dies while driving and seems to only be when I hit a bump no matter the size. I have checked the valve cover harness connector outside of the valve covers and they look fine. I checked the ECM connection took it off and reconnected it.
Changed the CPS censor twice, checked the ICP sensor, checked continuity of all the glow plugs through the valve cover harness. Checked the fuel pump, checked all related fuses, changed the fuel filter, checked glow plug relay, batteries hold good voltage and were recently upgraded to bigger batteries.
Engine runs just a little rough but not enough to be of concern. Air filter is clean and oil level is perfect. What could possible be causing my truck to randomly die when it hits a bump and not start back right away??? This truck is new to me and its the first diesel engine I have ever owned.
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I've done everything I can think of, ive replace the starter, batteries and altenator, both batteries have at least 12.30 volts when taken out and checked, but i turn the key and it will have power then try to start and whole system dies and wont come back on, I've cleaned the terminals and posts to shiny and the ground connections but its still not getting power.
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For the last week the car has increasingly been shuddering during acceleration. The mechanic thinks its just bad gas, but I'm worried it might be the timing belt. What is the damage of inflicting engine damage if i use up the current tank before trying to find other problems? Should I completely use up the current tank, or can I fill it up now (about a third of the tank is left) thus diluting any possible bad gas?
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2001 F350 7.3 ... Below 35 degrees, truck is hard to start. Cranks for a while, sputters, dies. Repeat a couple times, finally starts running rough, surging and loping for 10-15 seconds before it settles down and runs smoothly. Recently had all glow plugs replaced. Next cold start didn't show much improvement (not as bad as sometimes, but wasn't very cold either).
Surfing here and other forums, I see suggestions about letting glow plugs heat longer after WTS light goes out. Some suggest as long as 60 seconds. In the past, I have tried waiting a little while longer after light goes out, or turning key off/on and letting it cycle again. But I've never really timed how long I was waiting.
We're having a warm spell right now, so I can't do much testing. But yesterday morning was about 30. I timed the WTS light and it went out after 10 seconds. I waited another 20 seconds.. about 30 seconds total. Starting seemed a little better than usual, and there was about 1 second of roughness before it settled down.
I need to do more cold weather testing to be sure, but it does seem like it might be better to wait longer than I have been.
On the other end of the scale, I saw a comment that glow plug cycle is dependent on oil temp, and they don't come on at all if oil temp is above 40. Is this correct? If so, is there any good reason to wait to start in warm weather? I'm usually pretty diligent about waiting for the light regardless of weather, but the truck doesn't seem to object if I get impatient and start it sooner in warm weather. If the glow plugs aren't even on, why wait?
Should I just totally ignore the light, and wait for some interval (or not at all) based on a semi-educated guess about how much glow plug time might be necessary for the current temp?
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Driving home and headlights start to go off/on, now they only go on for 1 sec every 15 or so and getting worse. There is a buzzing/clicking noise coming from behind both headlamps all the time, cant find relay, also dome light blinks constantly.
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I have a 2006 elantra gt. two days ago it stopped while driving and wont start again. I towed home and brought a technician. he told me it was the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced it but still wont start. I recently changed the battery, spark plugs and timing belt. less than 2000 miles on since then.
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This has been happening for awhile now. I will drive somewhere, distance isn't a problem, and then after I'm done, I'll go to start my car, and it won't start. It won't turn over or whatever the term is. The starter tries, but won't bite. Sometimes it will start and I can drive for a bit before it will die about a block or 2 later.
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2003 elentra. yesterday my friend went to start her car and it wouldn't start. she said it sounded like a baseball card in bike spokes. later that night they tried it again and gave it gas while starting it. it started right up. the car runs fine after they get it started. the check engine light isn't on. and there is increase scent of gas while driving it.
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