Crown Victoria :: 2009 - Rear Doors Don't Open From Inside / Windows Won't Roll Down
Dec 5, 2012
I have just purchased a 2009 Ford Crown Vic Interceptor a few weeks ago. One of the few things I would like to fix is the rear doors. I want to have people in the back have the ability to roll down their own windows and open their own doors. I have plugged the wires, that were in the armrest back into the button but still doesn't work. I am assuming the fuse might also be missing from the fuse box but I have not looked yet and when looking through the owners manual I could figure out which fuse it would have been or its place.
The other issue with the doors is people getting out on their own rather than me feeling like their limo driver or something... Iss there a kit I can buy to get the doors in full working order? If I take it into a ford dealership will/can they fix it?
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I got a 09 Elantra and my rear windows will not roll up.. unless I use the switches in the rear doors. So, from the front I can roll them down but not up. if i need to roll them back up I have to get out open the rear door and use the switch in that door.
I am hoping it is the switch.. but which one? the one in the front doors. or the ones in the rear doors?
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100,000 miles new fuel pump three months ago all filters changed, new spark plugs and coils. Parked car for the evening next morning would crank no start. It would start when the fuel pump primed, now the fuel pump does not prime, I get no check engine light in the on position and no check engine light when car is cranking.
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I was driving home and i turned off my car as soon as i put it in park. Came back down two minutes later and it wont turn over or try to start. It makes a weird low clicking sound once the keys are taken out of the ignition.
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I have a 1998 Crown Vic Lx with 66,000 miles on it. We bought the car about 2 years ago and at that time it had only 32,000 original miles and looked like it had just rolled off the showroom floor. The car was well maintained and we have kept it that way. Over the last few months we have started to have a problem with the engine surging at idle when the Heating/air controls are in use. It's like the engine tries to die and then comes back up and it happens about every 5 seconds. It stops when the control is cut off. The fan speed control has no effect,just the main control.
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99 crown Vic windshield wipers only works on high. What could cause this?
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I have a 96' Interceptor. Recently, it feels like the back tires are sticking/skipping when I take off. I haven't noticed it doing that when I have it in reverse though. Sometimes it's hardly noticeable and other times it's fairly violent. I think it gets worse the more stops I make but I've parked it for now so there is no way to test that theory.
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I have a 2003 Crown Victoria. Within the last year, I changed blower fan resistor (or Blower fan control module) and repaired the Electronic Climate Control Module (the thing inside the cabin that controls A/C, heat, defrost and fan speed). Today, while I was driving, the blower fan came on high and would not stop. The weather was mild, so I did not have the A/C or heat on at the time. I tried pressing various buttons to make it stop, but it was running at high and wouldn't stop. The only way to make it stop was to turn off the engine. When I turn the engine back on, the blower fan was on high again.
What could possibly be wrong with the car? I recently changed the blower fan resistor, so that is unlikely to be the culprit. Even if it is, why wouldn't it shut off? Other people with a bad blower fan resistor say that the speed control is stuck on high, but the fan can be turned on and off.
Could it be the electronic climate control module inside the cabin? After all, it is the unit that tells the blower fan to go on. Air could be directed to defrost, vent and floor without any problem.
What do you think is making the fan stay on at HIGH and does not turn off?
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It worked fine and then just stopped blowing on any speed. The #303 relay was swapped with another and made no difference. The #101 40 amp fuse checks good. The blower fuse under the dash checks good too. The actuator moves the flapper door as it should.I suppose it could be the switch, but that requires some dismantlement of the dash. When a blower relay goes bad, it will usually allow (in fact cause) the blower to go only on high If it doesn't blow at all, can that still be the cause?
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I have a 2007 PI and recently lost heat and ac. All the controls do what they are supposed to do but both heat and ac blow room temp only. Fuses and relays are all good. Is this a blend door actuator problem? This is my guess and I'm basing the next question on a yes answer. Is it possible to access the actuator by making an eightXfour hole in the top of the dash above the radio. I would prefer not to have to pull the dash out of the way since everything else works good.
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When I was a mechanic in the 1980's it was easy to disable a car's ignition to do starter crank or compression tests, just pull the distributor lead wire in the center of the dist. cap.
I have a 2000 vintage 4.6 engine and was wondering the easy way to knock out the ignition to do crank tests, etc. This engine has all the modules resting independently on each spark plug, so no central distributor cap to get to. Is there an easy way, and does it work for Chrysler and GM cars too?
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I have 95 Crown Victoria and every time it rains water leaks into the back seat so I checked the condencer drain and it was not clogged ...
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My husband and I bought a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria not too long ago. We have already had to replace the brake lines 2 times (well, first the front and then a few weeks later the back). It has had nothing but problems. One thing is the air conditioner, but that probably just needs charged.
Now on to the bigger problems. All of a sudden we started having unintended acceleration. It is strong enough that if you don't have the brake pressed hard it will move your car forward every 5 seconds. The engine revs up on its own. This happens every time we stop anywhere. Including when I was pulling into a parking spot last night. I went very slow and as I was turning pressing on the brake it revved up and I thought for sure the way it jerked, it was going to go over the curb into the road. This scares the crap out of me.
Also, we have a problem with the slow (very slow) start. I know they had a recall on the cruise control, but I have not heard of any recalls on this. However, I did read somewhere about accidents happening due to this and something about it had to do with the way Ford build the car.
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I have a 2003 Ford crown Victoria with 137,000km (85,000 miles) which is in good condition overall. It runs well in the city and highway with few problems. I have noticed 1 issue with this car that is consistent. When it is snowing and below freezing it will hesitate occasionally on the highway at speeds over 45 mph. It does not put out any codes. I have sprayed the ignition wires with no change. I have not changed any ignition parts. I did over 500 miles on the highway this weekend in moderate rain with no trouble at all at temperatures around freezing. Today was snowing and below freezing with same problem on highway with occasional hesitation. In the city today with traction problems and tires spinning the ABS and Brake light came on. They were out when I drove it home.
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Ford crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
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Just took my 2014 F150 FX4 to the dealer for a rattle in the front and rear passenger side doors that rattle with the windows down . Sounds bad when you close the door. Dealer told me it was normal. So here I am with a 50,000 dollar truck with 5,000 miles on it and they say that's normal even tho the drivers side doors do not make this noise. Not really happy with FMC these days.
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My car got broken into 2002 VR6 4 motion.
Windows no longer roll down.
Trunk doesn't open.
Interior lights don't turn on.
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I've been searching for a couple days and haven't really found any good info on this... Is ot possible to make our rear windows roll all the way down?
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Anyway, just bought an 09 Expedition EL Limited. I ran through every button and function I could find at the dealership and it all worked great.
The next morning I went to roll the driver's window down and it makes a noise like it's going to start, but barely moves - if at all, then stops. Same with the front passenger. Rear windows worked fine. It was freezing and snow-covered at the time.
Yesterday (warmer and sunnier), all windows worked perfectly fine - just like they did at the dealership. The only thing that changed was the temperature.
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The rear left window and front right windows do not roll down. I have replaced the master control assy. and door switches. I removed the panels and tested the motors with external voltage. +12 v rolls the window up, -12v rolls the window down. Tried the sw and windows only roll up. Master control did not work. Ohmed out wiring appeared to be fine.
After reading the manual it says that everything goes through a bcm, Body Control Module. The manual does not say where it is located. I'm staring to think the BCM or bad ground wire may be the problem. Cannot figure out where the negative voltage comes from.
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So I have never rolled down the rear window to noticed until now. I was messing around with TechStream's option (turning on the pressing the remote unlock button 2.5 seconds to roll down all windows).
Anyways, it worked but when I looked at the rear windows, it doesn't roll down 100% like the front. There is about 1" left towards the front edge of the rear door left when it bottoms out. Also the left side (driver side) is bottoming out slidely higher than the rear passenger side (may be about 1/4" higher). Is this normal?
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