Crown Victoria :: 2000 - Disable Ignition For Crank Test?
Oct 23, 2012
When I was a mechanic in the 1980's it was easy to disable a car's ignition to do starter crank or compression tests, just pull the distributor lead wire in the center of the dist. cap.
I have a 2000 vintage 4.6 engine and was wondering the easy way to knock out the ignition to do crank tests, etc. This engine has all the modules resting independently on each spark plug, so no central distributor cap to get to. Is there an easy way, and does it work for Chrysler and GM cars too?
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I was driving home and i turned off my car as soon as i put it in park. Came back down two minutes later and it wont turn over or try to start. It makes a weird low clicking sound once the keys are taken out of the ignition.
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100,000 miles new fuel pump three months ago all filters changed, new spark plugs and coils. Parked car for the evening next morning would crank no start. It would start when the fuel pump primed, now the fuel pump does not prime, I get no check engine light in the on position and no check engine light when car is cranking.
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I have a 1998 Crown Vic Lx with 66,000 miles on it. We bought the car about 2 years ago and at that time it had only 32,000 original miles and looked like it had just rolled off the showroom floor. The car was well maintained and we have kept it that way. Over the last few months we have started to have a problem with the engine surging at idle when the Heating/air controls are in use. It's like the engine tries to die and then comes back up and it happens about every 5 seconds. It stops when the control is cut off. The fan speed control has no effect,just the main control.
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99 crown Vic windshield wipers only works on high. What could cause this?
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I have a 96' Interceptor. Recently, it feels like the back tires are sticking/skipping when I take off. I haven't noticed it doing that when I have it in reverse though. Sometimes it's hardly noticeable and other times it's fairly violent. I think it gets worse the more stops I make but I've parked it for now so there is no way to test that theory.
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I have a 2003 Crown Victoria. Within the last year, I changed blower fan resistor (or Blower fan control module) and repaired the Electronic Climate Control Module (the thing inside the cabin that controls A/C, heat, defrost and fan speed). Today, while I was driving, the blower fan came on high and would not stop. The weather was mild, so I did not have the A/C or heat on at the time. I tried pressing various buttons to make it stop, but it was running at high and wouldn't stop. The only way to make it stop was to turn off the engine. When I turn the engine back on, the blower fan was on high again.
What could possibly be wrong with the car? I recently changed the blower fan resistor, so that is unlikely to be the culprit. Even if it is, why wouldn't it shut off? Other people with a bad blower fan resistor say that the speed control is stuck on high, but the fan can be turned on and off.
Could it be the electronic climate control module inside the cabin? After all, it is the unit that tells the blower fan to go on. Air could be directed to defrost, vent and floor without any problem.
What do you think is making the fan stay on at HIGH and does not turn off?
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It worked fine and then just stopped blowing on any speed. The #303 relay was swapped with another and made no difference. The #101 40 amp fuse checks good. The blower fuse under the dash checks good too. The actuator moves the flapper door as it should.I suppose it could be the switch, but that requires some dismantlement of the dash. When a blower relay goes bad, it will usually allow (in fact cause) the blower to go only on high If it doesn't blow at all, can that still be the cause?
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I have a 2007 PI and recently lost heat and ac. All the controls do what they are supposed to do but both heat and ac blow room temp only. Fuses and relays are all good. Is this a blend door actuator problem? This is my guess and I'm basing the next question on a yes answer. Is it possible to access the actuator by making an eightXfour hole in the top of the dash above the radio. I would prefer not to have to pull the dash out of the way since everything else works good.
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I have 95 Crown Victoria and every time it rains water leaks into the back seat so I checked the condencer drain and it was not clogged ...
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My husband and I bought a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria not too long ago. We have already had to replace the brake lines 2 times (well, first the front and then a few weeks later the back). It has had nothing but problems. One thing is the air conditioner, but that probably just needs charged.
Now on to the bigger problems. All of a sudden we started having unintended acceleration. It is strong enough that if you don't have the brake pressed hard it will move your car forward every 5 seconds. The engine revs up on its own. This happens every time we stop anywhere. Including when I was pulling into a parking spot last night. I went very slow and as I was turning pressing on the brake it revved up and I thought for sure the way it jerked, it was going to go over the curb into the road. This scares the crap out of me.
Also, we have a problem with the slow (very slow) start. I know they had a recall on the cruise control, but I have not heard of any recalls on this. However, I did read somewhere about accidents happening due to this and something about it had to do with the way Ford build the car.
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I have just purchased a 2009 Ford Crown Vic Interceptor a few weeks ago. One of the few things I would like to fix is the rear doors. I want to have people in the back have the ability to roll down their own windows and open their own doors. I have plugged the wires, that were in the armrest back into the button but still doesn't work. I am assuming the fuse might also be missing from the fuse box but I have not looked yet and when looking through the owners manual I could figure out which fuse it would have been or its place.
The other issue with the doors is people getting out on their own rather than me feeling like their limo driver or something... Iss there a kit I can buy to get the doors in full working order? If I take it into a ford dealership will/can they fix it?
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I have a 2003 Ford crown Victoria with 137,000km (85,000 miles) which is in good condition overall. It runs well in the city and highway with few problems. I have noticed 1 issue with this car that is consistent. When it is snowing and below freezing it will hesitate occasionally on the highway at speeds over 45 mph. It does not put out any codes. I have sprayed the ignition wires with no change. I have not changed any ignition parts. I did over 500 miles on the highway this weekend in moderate rain with no trouble at all at temperatures around freezing. Today was snowing and below freezing with same problem on highway with occasional hesitation. In the city today with traction problems and tires spinning the ABS and Brake light came on. They were out when I drove it home.
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Ford crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
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Car was fine, then wouldn't start one day, after driving fine a couple of minutes before. Did this a few times previously, just tried a few times then it started again. There is no cranking when I turn the key, just a click. Lights work fine, stereo etc, no dip in power when turn key. I assumed it was starter motor so took it out and tested it - fine. Also tested battery - fine. Looked at a spark plug, fine, oil level fine. Don't see a reason the engine should have seized, as it was driving just fine, then wouldn't start suddenly, but I haven't tried manually turning the crank. I then looked at the switch on the clutch pedal that gets pressed when you push the clutch in, and allows it to start. Looked ok, but pulled the wires and bypassed it with a cable. Still nothing. Can the starter test ok but still be bad? Toyota Corolla 2003 80,000 miles ...
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So, I'm wondering if there is a way of disabling my ignition manually by taking something out from under the hood?
I've read somewhere that taking the fuel pump out works? I'm wondering if there is a chip or something small in the power distribution box that I can take out so if someone breaks in to my truck, they can't start it.
I have some pictures of my power distribution box with all the chips...
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Is there any way to disable the driver seat from moving all the way back when the ignition is switched off and the door is opened? The seat being all the way back makes it much more difficult to get my son in and out of his child seat in the back. Also, I'm not obese nor do I have mobility problems so the seat moving out of the way is a complete waste for me!
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My 1982 Ford Granada cranked slowly and failed to start. Before getting a new battery (it's already 6 years old), I cleaned the battery terminals and cable clamps from corrosion and re-connected them. The car started with no problem. The second time I turned the key, the car cranked slowly and again it failed to start. This time, I noticed the battery was being drained with the ignition off (the voltage was way too low). I frantically removed the negative battery terminal to prevent a fire and drained battery. When I re-connected the battery terminal, the engine tries to crank with no key in the ignition. Is there a relay or solenoid that froze in a closed position? Or, could it be a faulty ignition switch?
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well for a few days the car woudln't start every 10 times or so , i'd turn it back and forth a few times and it would kick over , then tonight wife took it and it just wouldn't start so i went and picked her up and tried it about a 100 times and called a tow truck
so what does everyone think it is, everything else is normal but the no crank. ignition switch maybe? I'm going to try and pop the clutch after it gets here, i didn't have the room or distance to try it where it was
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Ok. 2007 Elantra SE about 73k miles
Woke up yesterday car wouldn't start. Engine would try and crank but no ignition. Came home for lunch tried it again, no luck. Let it crank 2 or 3 times about 30 sec. each no luck. Then all of a sudden it started right up. Shut it off and started right up again. Did this 5 or 6 times, it started right up each time.
After work I came home, tried to start it. No luck. Pumped the gas a couple of times let it crank for a while. Nothing. Then after a couple of tries, it started. Went to Autozone had the battery and charging system checked, all good. Put some gas in it and came home. All this time it started right up each time.
Later that night about 4 hours later I went to try it and no go. After about 5 minutes of repeatedly trying it came on eventually.
This morning I went out, pumped the gas twice and it started right up. Shut it off and started again about 5 times in a row. It seemed to run a little rough. Just slight shake that seems like miss or something.
What could be the problem. No check engine light. Fuel system, ignition system, some sensor??
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OK, here's the update so far.
- new battery
- all fuses fine in panel, all fuses fine on battery pack.
- am getting power to trigger switch upon engine crank (tested w lamp and volt meter).
- did the 'mechanics tap' on the starter motor body
Still no crank when key is turned, instrument panel/gauges light up as normal
So am I right in thinking that I've narrowed the problems down to:
1) bad solenoid
2) bad starter
3) bad connection between battery and starter
or have I missed something?
Also, is there a way to directly test the starter (or indirectly test the solenoid) by applying power to the starter?
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