100,000 miles new fuel pump three months ago all filters changed, new spark plugs and coils. Parked car for the evening next morning would crank no start. It would start when the fuel pump primed, now the fuel pump does not prime, I get no check engine light in the on position and no check engine light when car is cranking.
View 1 RepliesMy husband and I bought a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria not too long ago. We have already had to replace the brake lines 2 times (well, first the front and then a few weeks later the back). It has had nothing but problems. One thing is the air conditioner, but that probably just needs charged.
Now on to the bigger problems. All of a sudden we started having unintended acceleration. It is strong enough that if you don't have the brake pressed hard it will move your car forward every 5 seconds. The engine revs up on its own. This happens every time we stop anywhere. Including when I was pulling into a parking spot last night. I went very slow and as I was turning pressing on the brake it revved up and I thought for sure the way it jerked, it was going to go over the curb into the road. This scares the crap out of me.
Also, we have a problem with the slow (very slow) start. I know they had a recall on the cruise control, but I have not heard of any recalls on this. However, I did read somewhere about accidents happening due to this and something about it had to do with the way Ford build the car.
99 crown Vic windshield wipers only works on high. What could cause this?
View 4 RepliesFord crown vic, 1999, 125k miles, no engine work has been done, did flush cooling system in spring of 2013 and put in a 50/50 mix of coolant and distilled water (from a jug). No problems for the summer of 2013, have been using heater with no problems until around Tuesday of this week.
Car runs fine, no leaks, coolant checks out good. BUT now.. My temperature gauge hardly moves (up) and the heater blows warm air only. If I am driving the gauge will not move, if the car sits running for awhile it will move up some and the heat will get warmer inside of the car. My guess maybe a stuck thermostat?
I was driving home and i turned off my car as soon as i put it in park. Came back down two minutes later and it wont turn over or try to start. It makes a weird low clicking sound once the keys are taken out of the ignition.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Crown Vic Lx with 66,000 miles on it. We bought the car about 2 years ago and at that time it had only 32,000 original miles and looked like it had just rolled off the showroom floor. The car was well maintained and we have kept it that way. Over the last few months we have started to have a problem with the engine surging at idle when the Heating/air controls are in use. It's like the engine tries to die and then comes back up and it happens about every 5 seconds. It stops when the control is cut off. The fan speed control has no effect,just the main control.
View 2 RepliesI have a 96' Interceptor. Recently, it feels like the back tires are sticking/skipping when I take off. I haven't noticed it doing that when I have it in reverse though. Sometimes it's hardly noticeable and other times it's fairly violent. I think it gets worse the more stops I make but I've parked it for now so there is no way to test that theory.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2003 Crown Victoria. Within the last year, I changed blower fan resistor (or Blower fan control module) and repaired the Electronic Climate Control Module (the thing inside the cabin that controls A/C, heat, defrost and fan speed). Today, while I was driving, the blower fan came on high and would not stop. The weather was mild, so I did not have the A/C or heat on at the time. I tried pressing various buttons to make it stop, but it was running at high and wouldn't stop. The only way to make it stop was to turn off the engine. When I turn the engine back on, the blower fan was on high again.
What could possibly be wrong with the car? I recently changed the blower fan resistor, so that is unlikely to be the culprit. Even if it is, why wouldn't it shut off? Other people with a bad blower fan resistor say that the speed control is stuck on high, but the fan can be turned on and off.
Could it be the electronic climate control module inside the cabin? After all, it is the unit that tells the blower fan to go on. Air could be directed to defrost, vent and floor without any problem.
What do you think is making the fan stay on at HIGH and does not turn off?
It worked fine and then just stopped blowing on any speed. The #303 relay was swapped with another and made no difference. The #101 40 amp fuse checks good. The blower fuse under the dash checks good too. The actuator moves the flapper door as it should.I suppose it could be the switch, but that requires some dismantlement of the dash. When a blower relay goes bad, it will usually allow (in fact cause) the blower to go only on high If it doesn't blow at all, can that still be the cause?
View 19 RepliesI have a 2007 PI and recently lost heat and ac. All the controls do what they are supposed to do but both heat and ac blow room temp only. Fuses and relays are all good. Is this a blend door actuator problem? This is my guess and I'm basing the next question on a yes answer. Is it possible to access the actuator by making an eightXfour hole in the top of the dash above the radio. I would prefer not to have to pull the dash out of the way since everything else works good.
View 1 RepliesWhen I was a mechanic in the 1980's it was easy to disable a car's ignition to do starter crank or compression tests, just pull the distributor lead wire in the center of the dist. cap.
I have a 2000 vintage 4.6 engine and was wondering the easy way to knock out the ignition to do crank tests, etc. This engine has all the modules resting independently on each spark plug, so no central distributor cap to get to. Is there an easy way, and does it work for Chrysler and GM cars too?
I have 95 Crown Victoria and every time it rains water leaks into the back seat so I checked the condencer drain and it was not clogged ...
View 2 RepliesI have just purchased a 2009 Ford Crown Vic Interceptor a few weeks ago. One of the few things I would like to fix is the rear doors. I want to have people in the back have the ability to roll down their own windows and open their own doors. I have plugged the wires, that were in the armrest back into the button but still doesn't work. I am assuming the fuse might also be missing from the fuse box but I have not looked yet and when looking through the owners manual I could figure out which fuse it would have been or its place.
The other issue with the doors is people getting out on their own rather than me feeling like their limo driver or something... Iss there a kit I can buy to get the doors in full working order? If I take it into a ford dealership will/can they fix it?
I have a 2003 Ford crown Victoria with 137,000km (85,000 miles) which is in good condition overall. It runs well in the city and highway with few problems. I have noticed 1 issue with this car that is consistent. When it is snowing and below freezing it will hesitate occasionally on the highway at speeds over 45 mph. It does not put out any codes. I have sprayed the ignition wires with no change. I have not changed any ignition parts. I did over 500 miles on the highway this weekend in moderate rain with no trouble at all at temperatures around freezing. Today was snowing and below freezing with same problem on highway with occasional hesitation. In the city today with traction problems and tires spinning the ABS and Brake light came on. They were out when I drove it home.
View 3 RepliesI don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
My cousin has a 99 1.8T passat and its been sitting for a bit so initially I thought it was the battery but it is fine. The car cranks and it turns over but it will not start. It was fine than it was left for a few days when it was cold and has not started since.
I am not too farmiliar with the 1.8T .... I pulled out the dipstick and found the oil to be a little cloudy, that got me worried but last time it was driven the car was fine. It also looks kinda green but I am not sure if its the coolant since the coolant in the reservior is red or maybe orange.
Ok, went out last night to go over to a buddies place to watch some football. Tried to start my truck but all that happened is that it would turn over, but not start. Had plenty of juice in the battery, and 1/2 tank of gas. It acted like it wanted to start, but nothing doing - just keeps cranking and cranking. Its even more frustrating because I was driving it around most of the day before this happened.
Here's the dillema: Its been doing this for the past two months now on and off. Once I fix something, it runs for about a month, and then it starts doing this again, without any warning signs (i.e. multiple cranks before a start, stalling, hesitation on accel., etc.). At this point I'm clueless. I've replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, and air filter, but the problem has resurfaced again.
An interesting thing to note is that the only ways I'm able to get it started when it starts doing this is to remove the electrical connection from the intertia switch, and crank the engine a few times to relieve the fuel system pressure. After reconnecting the inertia switch, the truck starts instantly.
So whats the deal? Why this would work, and why suddenly the thing would not start after weeks and weeks of driving flawlessly? Is it possible that my system is either too pressurized or losing pressure somehow, and that is how it be able to start? A buddy suggested it might be injectors, but I'm not so sure, because there is no hesitation on accel or performance loss, or even a rough idle.
My 1999 Ranger that I bought used has been serving me well. However, two days ago I went to visit a friend and when I tried to start the truck to go home, the engine cranked but would not fire. I assumed that perhaps I had flooded the engine, so I walked home. I went back an hour later and the truck started up immediately. Then, yesterday, the truck would not fire at all. I towed it to AutoZone to check for error codes, but none were found. I put my inductive timing light on a plug wire and found that there was no spark.
In one instance of cranking, the timing light blinked and the engine tried to fire, but then nothing. The AutoZone man suggested changing the crankshaft and camshaft sensors. I haven't done that yet, but that is my next plan. Can the Ford dealer find error codes that tell what is preventing an engine from starting that AutoZone can't see? For sure there is no spark, but maybe there is no fuel either since I don't smell gas after much cranking. Could it be the inertia switch cutting off both fuel and spark?
Replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, rotor button, distributor cap, and the ignition module. The coil tested good. The engine cranks, but will not start.
View 5 RepliesOn my 1999 F350 SD Crew Cab, 6.8l V10, it will crank, but won't start. I have checked fuel pump fuses and relays, and all are good. I checked the "collision switch" and it is good. I pulled the fuel pump and connected it to the battery and it works, but there is no voltage at the fuel pump connector nearest the fuel pump. I have spoken to a Ford mechanic and he said that if their is voltage from the output of the collision switch, that it must be a wiring problem between the switch and the fuel pump connector, but I have but I have been unable to find a problem. Anything else to try?
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