Corolla :: Transmission Slightly Slips Gears And Rear Brakes
Jul 25, 2014
My 2001 Corolla S has 215,000 miles on it. I bought it used when it had 192,000 miles on it. The transmission slightly slips gears, rear brakes need changed, and a couple sway bar links. I can get the sway bar links replaced soon along with the brakes. The car has been very reliable since I've had it. I've gotten the oil changed routinely and added fuel injection about every 10,000 miles. I do not drive the car aggressively, and it hardly ever goes over 3,000 rpm.
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Recently purchased a flooded 2013 VW Passat TDI and am a newbie. Flushed trans and did a fluid change. Transmission slips on hard acceleration in 2nd and 4th gears and under minimal pull in 6th gear. I then took it to dealership and they told me there was an active code for intermittent low pressure and told me I needed a new mechatronic and that fluid was still somewhat milky. After telling them it was a flood vehicle they told me I needed a new transmission.
Brought it home and drained fluid again and replaced the K-2 solenoid, refilled fluid and test drove. Still slipping the same. Pulled trans today to look at K-2 clutch pack and found what appears to be three pieces of rubber seal (approx 1/64 thick, 1/16 wide, and when putting pieces together appears to be 1 1/2 inside dia. I think one small piece is still missing. Arrived at the 1 1/2" ID by the curvature of remaining pieces) inside the inner hub. I have inspected most of the pieces and cannot come up with where these have come from. I believe they have to be from somewhere that seals up the K-2 piston.
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My '87 Chevy S-10 transmission slips like mad in forward gears and I can't go everywhere in reverse. The truck is gaaged in southern Virginia about 60 miles from my home and is used on some country property. The local transmission shop wants $1600 to rebuild the trans. He says he used sturdier parts than the replacement GM parts. I'd like to fix the truck because it comes in handy and was my dad's old mode of transportation around the Va. countryside, so it has sentimental value.
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Last night transmission in my beloved '89 Caprice Wagon let go, it slips completely in all the forward gears. I was coming down a long hill using low gear for several minutes and when I put it back into OD at the bottom it seemed to skip a little but it was still making power well enough. I got off the freeway at my exit and stopped at a red light, when the light changed I was revving high but barely creeping through the intersection. I pulled over and this is what I figured out:-All the forward gears make essentially no power any more.-Reverse seems to work normally.-The fluid is at a normal level and not discolored or burnt smelling.
I don't know if this is related or just an amazing coincidence but the water pump also seems to have blown the gasket at the same time. I must have just happened within a few minutes of me pulling over because there was still a ton of coolant left and the temp was still in the normal range. I don't see how they're related but, like I said, the timing is too coincidental. Earlier this week but just a few miles ago I also topped the power steering fluid and oil.
It's a 200-R4 transmission, is it toast? Why does reverse work but all the forward gears slip completely? Is the water pump just a red herring? I did drive the rest of the way home in reverse.
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2006 f150 4x4 4R75E trans slipping in forward gears, reverse is ok. I dropped pan and it was clean. I dropped valve body and found OD servo shaft clip broken, the large snapring was I fine and in place. It allowed the inner shaft to float up and down. Would this cause my forward gears to slip or do I have a bigger problem?
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I've had 2 Elantra 2012 models 1 a gls the second a limited. As far as transmission issues both Elantra's from a cold start after allowing RPM's to idle down before taking off they both have started shifting hard going from 1st to second gear 1st car was around 8-9 k miles now 2nd started at 3 k miles. Since owning 2 cars same make same year same transmission and many times to dealer 1st car ended with Transmission replaced 2nd has now started doing the same thing they reset adaptive and next day did it again its now back at dealer waiting for them to diagnose again.
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As I've been doing work on the rear struts I noticed drag on the rear wheels when the car is jacked up. It's definitely the brakes. At first I dismissed it thinking it was the rotor going out of alignment when the tension from the wheel lug nuts is released (I don't have the retaining screws on the rotor). I can turn the wheels by hand but there is definite resistance.
However, yesterday I asked someone to listen to the rear wheels while the engine was off and the car was moving slowly. They could hear the sound of pads against the rotors. There is no smell nor do I notice any extra heat.
The caliper pistons move very easily and I'm fairly confident they're not stuck. The rotors and pads are in great shape. So I'm assuming it's an issue with the parking brake cable. But, I don't even know where to start. The parking brake seems to work fine otherwise.
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At about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
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I picked up my 2005 F150 4x4 last winter. It has 135k miles & a slight tranny problem.
When cruising around 45 mph - right between where it wants to be in top gear or not - if I slightly accelerate the trans BANGS between the two gears.
I mean repeatedly bangs - it is not a smooth shift where it can't decide which gear to use - it is a hard BANG where it can't decide which gear to be in.
What gives? I can usually stop it if I turn on the towing button - shutting off high gear.
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Figuring out automatic shifter problem, the car only has 56k miles & it has problem (since 30k miles) shifting out of Park or stuck in Park, often I had to use the mechanical override to release it so I can put it in Neutral to start the engine. When placed in Drive, it kind of "floats," does not have the normal confident in-the-gear feel & sometimes it slips out of Drive to Neutral with the slightest bump of the gear shifter when driving or when stopped. When I shift, it does not have a free easy movement, it feels like the cable is restricted by corrosion or dirt, but everything looked good & seem shielded. Took it to a shop & they suggested that I just drive it... I've since put over 20k miles & its getting worse at finding Neutral to start the car with.
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I have a 2002 Isuzu Rodeo with about 140,000 miles. The transmission slips when going from 2nd to 3rd gear. It there any hope for a repair that doesn't involve a tranny rebuild? Can anything else be done?
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On a 2005 Audi A4, 1.8 T... The Audi dealership found a 'fault for transmission control module' (the transmission slips), and a fault for vacuum leak ('crank case venting components dry rotted'). How much should it cost to repair each of these? My partner would prefer to get rid of the car if repairs add up to $4,000 or more, as the dealer would like to charge. The car has 44,000 miles on the odometer.
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I have a 2002 Ford Escape 4x4Automatic with 97K on it. It has just started slipping in Drive. It will go in reverse just fine. If i put it into 2 or 1 it will take right off then I can move it into D but only with the OD off. If it is on the engine revs and you don't go anywhere. I have no lights flashing or bells going off. The fluid is clean and doesn't smell burned. Is my transmission toast? Is there a chance I can have it fixed cheaply or even do it myself?
Here are the symptoms once again.
Moves in Reverse.
Revs in D with OD on or off
Moves in 1 or 2 with OD on or off
When you get it moving you can put it into D with OD off and get 3rd gear. If OD is on It just revs.
When you come to a stop in D with the OD off and try to take off again it just revs. You have to use 1 or 2 to get moving again.
Will the car make it 300miles home so i can have it looked at?
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Friend has '04 LS and he says that after a heavy rain, his LS will only go about 25 mph. Water is getting into something but where? This lasts for about 2 weeks and then all is OK. Water is finally evaporating, I assume, and problem goes away.
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I purchased my first Lexus in October, a very clean 2009 ls460. In colder weather (for Tucson AZ) in the 30's to 40's I notice that the transmission slips while the car is accelerating between 2nd and third gear.
By slipping, I mean as the car shifts between 2nd and 3rd it feels like it goes into neutral for a half second, so rpms spike 500 rpm, the car stops accellerating, and then catches as the next gear is finally engaged.
It does this pretty much every day when the car has been sitting overnight on the first steady acceleration after backing out of the garage. It only does it once, subsequent shifts a re pretty much normal.
Every once in a while coming out of a parking lot after say grocery shopping, it will do it again, just once.
I dropped it at the dealer and they of course could not replicate it.
I made a youtube video which shows it sort of. besides the rise in engine rpm, you feel a lurch in the acceleration as it drops down into gear.
Service records showed the trans was serviced just before I bought it.
Transmission slipping - YouTube
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My tcm is reading codes p707, p734, p732, p745, p1529. Little information ive gathered is that my transmission only slips while OD is on and it only slips the first time it tries to reach 2nd and 4th gears after it slips the rest of the drive it shifts fine it also feels sluggish in OD as far as acceleration. I'd like to solve it with out replacing the tranny cause.
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The transmission slips a little when first driving after startup. After about two minutes it's fine. How to check the ATF? Also where to add and what kind. The owner's manual has no ref. to this.
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I was experiencing a slight slip in the transmission first thing in the morning when the temps were below 60 degrees in my 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee (42RE). Per recommendations of many of the regulars on this forum to combat such an issue, I added a can of Berryman's B-12 Chemtool to the fluid. I drove it a couple times and everything seemed fine. It sat for a week or so, went to drive it tonight, and now the check engine light has come on and the transmission is slipping badly.
I don't know if they have changed anything with that stuff or what, but I just wanted to give a heads up that this may not be such a hot idea anymore, for whatever reason. I will try changing the filter and top up with some fresh ATF+4 (and probably drain and refill a few times) and hope for the best. I don't have a code reader right now, so I can't pull the codes and don't want to drive it to the auto parts store the way it is now, but am pretty sure they are related to the slip.
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Cars transmission slips during take-off . 180,000 miles , does it need service, modulator valve or replacement?
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I have a 2006 VW Golf TDI that I love b/c I can run it on biodiesel.It has about 125,000 miles and I want to get another 100,000 out of it.The problem is that the automatic transmission slips sometimes when I slow down to about 10 mph or slow and then hit the gas again before stopping.I took it to my usual mechanic who checked the transmission fluid and it was full. He then said that there was nothing else really to do; there was no way to fix this other than replacing the whole transmission due to all the computer and electronic gadgetry.That seems crazy to me that there is nothing between adding fluid and replacing the whole transmission.The mechanic said that this is an issue with VWs from around this year.
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When my Excursion sits for a while, the transmission slips a lot at first till it builds up pressure. Is this a problem? It seem fine other than this.
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