Corolla :: Toyota 1994 - Car Doesn't Start Without A Jump
Aug 11, 2013
I have recently been having a problem with my Toyota Corolla. It starts up fine in the morning, but after a couple of hours of driving with the A/C on and the running lights (which are always on), and the radio, when I shut the car off, it will not start without a jump. With my heavy duty cables it starts instantly with the jump but then I am afraid to turn it off again. It has a genuine Toyota battery that has the dots removed saying it was installed Dec. 2012 although it looks older. After driving for a couple of hours the battery should be fully charged right? Or, does having the A/C and lights on suck up to much juice?
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I have a 1994 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission. I went to start it this afternoon and it made a clicking sound a few times then went completely dead. When I jumped it, the dashboard panels, radio, lights, doors, etc. began to work, but it still would not start. I have replaced the alternator about 1.5 yrs ago and had the battery checked then too (it was fine then). I have had this problem before about a year ago, but it did start when jumped. I didn't leave my lights on or any doors open, so I don't think I drained the battery.
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I got a nice old Toyota. Let's say its a 88 Corolla, with about 215K on it. It was running well until the other day. The car was sitting outside during a rainstorm and when I hopped in, it wouldn't start. Issues are listed in the order they were observed:
1) Key in ignition doesn't create any noise or try to turn over
2) Battery is jumpable
3) Car engine stopped after being jumped. Actually, after I put my foot on the brake pedal.
4) Battery ceases to be jumpable.
5) If I wait a half an hour, battery makes indications that it is operable - ie engine lite works, or buzzing noise is made when door is ajar.
6) There is still no turn over noise.
7) Battery is not jumpable.
8) Maybe some smoke came out of the battery while I was trying to jump it.
In the past few weeks of driving I have rarely parked out doors in rainy conditions, although I drove plenty in the rain. (I am in the Pac NW).
I'd be happy to hear hints on the main source of the problem and what to look into. I am told the battery is new and the alternator was likely replaced recently, but there is no receipts for me to validate that.
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So my 1998 Toyota Corrolla jumps and jerks after I switch gears. It only does it sometimes and I have seemed to narrow down that it does it mostly when the air conditioning is on and between 3rd and 4th gear if I don't have the RPMs just right. There is no smell nor any mettalic grinding. I'm thinking it's something to do with the transmission.
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Ok, so, according to my dad, his car battery died, and he had to have it jumped. After the jump, apparently his headunit will no longer turn on. We think it may be a blown fuse, in which case we need to know the location of the fuse (and probably the rating & label of it, for identification's sake). I have an aftermarket headunit in my Santa Fe, and the fuse for that is in the back of the actual unit itself, so I don't know if there's a fuse in the back of his factory stereo too...? However, we are not exactly sure what the problem is. My dad's car is a 2007 Hyundai Elantra with the premium factory audio system installed. He gets Sirius-XM and has an aux input (everything pertaining to audio is factory-installed).
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla wagon has a problem. I drove to work, all seemed fine. I jumped in it in the afternoon, and my key won't go in the ignition - it gets half way in, and that's it. It feels like the key is bumping into something into the ignition lock cylinder. In the interest of full disclosure, I've sprayed some WD-40 into the lock cylinder, thinking maybe the pins were jammed. If that is the case, it hasn't worked. Zero improvement. This originally happened when it was really cold out, so I've waited and tried it again on a warm (40 degree) day - no change (though my door lock and ignition have been more stubborn in the cold in the past, but only marginally so). So, what are my options? I guess you can't (easily) replace the lock cylinder without the key in the "on" or "acc" position (which I obviously cannot do). I'm not opposed to using a screwdriver as the key, or hot-wiring the car, but don't want to take drastic (or stupid) steps before being sure I don't have other choices..
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After a new distributor, check engine light coming on, getting a code 52, they (Toyota Dealership) replaced knock sensor. Unfortunately it seems to improve a little bit, but same issues happen; engine not running smooth at times. 94 Corolla. In the 223,000 mile club. 1.6
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Periodically my 1994 Toyota Corolla 5-speed manual will not start. Other times it seems to hesitate before starting. The rest of the time it starts fine.
When it does not start: I turn the key, and hear the fuel pump relay click, and hear the fuel pump on the gas tank energize, but the car does not try to crank. I do not know if the starter solenoid is engaging at this time, as I could not listen for it while in the car. When I did try to listen for it while under the hood with someone else starting the car, it actually started (did not exhibit the issue)
When it hesitates before starting: However, sometimes, when I turn the key I hear the fuel pump relay click and the fuel pump energize, after about 1-1/2 seconds of holding the key, it does start.
When it does start it sounds normal, not like a low battery. The battery is new. I had the charging system checked at Advance Auto and they said the battery was good as was the alternator and starter. Plenty of cranking amps.
I disconnected the main wire on the starter motor and cleaned it with a wire brush. I also cleaned up the battery terminals.
I did find that the switch on the clutch pedal that allows the car to start when pressed has some fluid leaking on it (clutch fluid I think). Could that be causing the intermittent starting issue? If so, can I just clean it with WD-40 or something like that?
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This car was running fine until my daughter brought it to a reputable tire shop to have new tires put on and an alignment done. The day after this was done, she started having issues with the car not wanting to move when it is in drive. It would eventually take off, but very reluctantly, and once she got going down the road it would be fine. After a couple days like this, it just wouldn't go at all in drive unless someone was pushing it. It goes fine in reverse.
The transmission fluid level had been recently checked, and was fine. Now when this problem cropped up and it was checked, the fluid was gone! We don't notice anything on the ground where it has been parked.
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My 94 Toyota Corolla has about 190,000 miles on it and lately it has had a hard time shifting between 20-30mph. It finally does reach it and does not have trouble shifting at any other speeds. This only happens in the heat of the afternoon (Never have this problem in the morning). Also, my O/D light has been flashing when this happens, or at least around the time it happens. Could these two problems be linked? I took it to my mechanic in the morning and he checked the transmission fluid and it seemed fine, he also had no problems driving around when he tested the car. He said my transmission is going and that I should make "long term" plans. Is there any hope?
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I have a 220k 1994 Corolla with I have come across a couple problems recently. It all started about a week ago when I decided to change my rear brake shoes. The old ones turned out to be all cracked and everything but were generally in pretty good shape in terms of wear. Anyways I put the new shoes in (my first brake job) and tightened up the e brake cable and went for a test drive. I walked away extremely satisfied, the e brake worked perfect which was my main reason for changing the shoes in the first place.
Basically the whole thing worked perfectly until 2 days later. I was driving for about 8 miles when my brake pedal suddenly fell through to the floor (or pretty close) at first I even thought I hit the clutch pedal! anyways after pumping the pedal a few times my pedal feel returned about 70% and after another maybe 10 seconds braking power was lost again until I pumped the pedal. So lucky for me my destination was a 1/4 mile away so I parked and checked the fluid level; it was at the max mark, then I check the wheels/drums and they were REALLY hot.
Also the driver's side drum had a faint smell of brake fluid. Anyways about an hour later I went for a short drive and the brakes worked fine so an hour after that I drove the 8 miles home and about 1/8 of a mile from home same thing happened; brake pedal basically goes almost down to the floor until pumped. My thoughts were that the new shoes were constantly rubbing and the old fluid overheated and caused failure so I flushed the system and put new fluid in and adjusted the shoes "in" with the click adjuster bolt. I had a really hard time getting the drums of to begin with. That and I loosened the e brake cable just in case.
So the next morning I drive about 5 miles without using the brakes pulled over to check that the drums were not heating up anymore (they weren't) so I thought I had fixed it. Well 3 days later (last night) I was experiencing the rear brake stickiness again. Basically when I was just moving from a stop where I had used the e brake to secure the car, I could literally feel that the rear brakes were stopping the car pretty aggressively and sure enough after a few more miles my brake pedal fell through so I poured water on the drums and they started to let off lots of steam, even after like 10 bottles!
So I limped to my friends house at 12:00 AM and jacked my car for a look. Again the drums really didn't want to come off and once we did get them off my friends dad inspected them and could find anything wrong with my installation. The conclusion that we came to was that the auto adjustor for the shoes makes the shoes too tight and they rub. So I am thinking maybe this is cause for the fluid to overheat and boil, causing the pedal to fall through. The pedal fell has gotten much worse since I bled the system 3 days ago so that may be an indicator. Did a test this morning for 5 miles and the drums were just below lukewarm.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla's speedometer just stopped working while I was driving this morning. Does this mean that there could be something worse going on than just my speedometer?
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I got a caprice 94 l99 it was driving perfect. i was on my way home then it started to put put then the engine cut. gave it like 3 mins it started drove 1 block started to put then the engine cut. now doesnt start at all just cranks the gas gauge says it has 1/4 tank of gas.
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My 1994 Toyota Corolla idles at around 1500 and 2000 RPM just about anytime I drive it.
It is worst when I first start the car, and it gets better the longer I drive, however, it is still well above a normal idling range!!
I add oil regularly and do check the levels on most of my fluids on a weekly basis!
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My wife left the lights on in the 2001 Camry and completely draining the battery. I tried to jump her but the car would not start (turns over great). Also the electrical system was strange in that the lights would not go off and other electrical items did not function. I disconnected the battery and fully recharged it and put it back on. I noticed that the "ALT" (100A) fusible link was blown and replaced it. Car still will not start (turns over great). The electrical problems appear fixed however the radio does not work. I tried to read the codes on the ODB and got "ERR". I checked all other fuses and they are good. I checked the pin-out voltage on the ODB port and was reading ~11.5V. I am wondering if I missed something like is the ECM bad? I can replace this myself for $150, but if I have it towed to a dealer it will cost me $800. Is there a way I can be sure that the ECM is bad, also are there other things to check that I may have missed. Also, when I turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start the car, the "Check engine" light does not illuminate.
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I don't expect many people to still be running OEM radios, but having issues with the stock radio? My girlfriend left town yesterday, and on the 3 hour drive, she said her radio just shuts off. Sometimes, when its on, the volume controls wont work, etc. W the model number for the stock 2010 Toyota Corolla S touch screen OEM stereo?
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8L. It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on or when I try to start it. There are 3 EFI fuses, and all of them are good. There doesn't seem to be an EFI relay (correct me if I'm wrong). I've replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start.
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I was backing out of a parking space on the street this afternoon and hit a car that was coming down the street. The rear passenger side bumper was crunched in but I popped it out and now it's just scuffed. The impact wasn't that much, but now the throttle seems messed up.
When starting from a stop there's an initial burst of power followed by a brief lull and then power comes back. Facing up a hill there is no power with the gas pedal slightly depressed and then it kicks in with the same jerky power delivery.
I've also noticed that the real time MPEG doesn't jump up to 100 when I'm coasting like it used to and the engine doesn't quit when at a stop and the idle fluctuates a bit.
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In Jan my 94 Toyota Camry started having issues with starting- for instance, I would run an errand for 10 minutes get back in the car and it wouldn't start. However, this tended to be random. When this problem happened more often I took it in and they said I needed a new starter so I got one (Feb) and didn't have any issues for a month, but then began to have the same issue on and off again. I took my car back in for the second time and they said it must have been a bad starter. They gave me ANOTHER new starter (Apr) and my issues continued soon after. I took it back in and they didn't have an answer for me other than the starter was good. Took it to another mechanic and he had the car for two days and could not find ANY ISSUE with the car. I let it brush over during the summer months because I never had this issue (June-Aug) and now that it's gotten cold again I'm having this problem.
Few things to note: -Anytime I have this issue I'll hit the starter with a hammer and it will ALWAYS start. This has been the case since January.-It ALWAYS starts in the morning and when I get back in my car after working all day. However, if I were to run errands in the morning or at night it would not start with the stop and go. -This only happens in the cold months -They tested the newest starter and they say there's nothing wrong with it.-Within the past two years I've had MANY things replaced on this car and any shops I've taken it to say it's a great car with no issues they can find.
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So recently (past few weeks) I've noticed my temperature gauge on the dash cluster doesn't jump up to 190 as it had before. It just sits there when I start the car, and then eventually builds up as I start driving. Reason this concerns me is because I don't remember this ever happening.
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My 1995 Toyota Tacoma won't start every time I turn the key. Sometimes it starts right up, but recently, more often than not it just gives a single click when the clutch pedal is pressed in just about all the way.
I replaced the neutral safety clutch switch and it started every time for about a week, then it went back to not starting reliably.
I'm growing tired of making sure I park on a hill each time I park.
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