Corolla :: Rear Drivers Side Tire Bottoms Out When Go Over Bumps
Dec 28, 2013
When I first start my car in the morning, every time I go over bumps the right rear tire feels and sounds like it is bottoming out. After driving 10 mins. it stops and acts like the other 3 tires. I understand if it did it all the time it would be a strut or shock absorber which ever a 1998 Corolla has.
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I have been trying to fix a problem with my 06 Mazda3 (almost 90K miles) for, maybe 7-9 months now. I just got home from getting my struts all changed for about $1200 (and I would guess I am $1700+ in the hole overall on it) without fixing the problem.
It started that going over bumps would cause the front passenger tire to "bottom out" and yield a quick "thud-thud-thud" that was very distinct from sound the driver side made, which was fewer, deeper "thuds". The, later, I got noises that initially sounded like the tire brushing against the wheel well when I made sharp right turns. The noise would be more pronounced when I would turn hard right from a stop (so I would be accelerating). I would also sometimes get the suspension to "shudder" on the passenger side when I would accelerate suddenly. It seems like the nose of the car dipping during acceleration is what gets the rubbing/grinding noise.
I have brought this up at 3 oil changes at different places and brought the car in multiple other times when it bothered me. Every time they have told me everything looks fine. The noise used to happen sporadically but I could do it intentionally if I tried. Now it has gotten worse and it even happens when I bring it to the tire place, so at least I seem less paranoid. I am comforted that everything looks in order, but have avoided even getting on the highway for months fearing my wheel would fly off.
Since this started, I have:- replaced the tires- rotated the tires- replaced the brakes- replaced the front shocks- replaced all of the struts (2 hours ago)
and in my ignorance and desperation tried to replace the wheel bearings, cv joints, and tie rods but was told they are fine. I had to push to get the shocks replaced, using the mileage as justification.
I am going to bring the car back to where I had my struts done 7am tomorrow morning, tell them it is still happening, and see if they can take another look. If no dice maybe I'll call car talk a few hours later.
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I have the 4-zone climate control and suspect that there may be a drain problem from the rear evaporator. Will take to the dealer next week.
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My 2004 V50, all the doors and boot lock except for the rear drivers side passenger door.
I have tried pushing the door knob down and this wont budge either, took the door card off and can hear a clicking when you press the key fob but thats it lock does not move?
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Can I swap my seat bottoms? I have '99 F350 with 40-20-40 seats. Drivers seat is getting tired. Would like to take just the seat bottom and flip-flop. Can it be done?
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Can I swap my seat bottoms? I have '99F350 with 40-20-40 seats. Drivers seat is getting tired. Would like to take just the seat bottom and flip-flop. Can it be done?
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Potholes are nasty where I live .It sounds like there's something in my trunk rolling back and fourth. When I accelerate it knocks back. When I brake it knocks forward. Just like rolling, it only happens once in each direction. Sort of sounds like the noise of bending/popping metal.I'm taking my car in later this week.
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I've had some noise while doing slow turns for the past 9 months or so, seemingly coming from the rear of the car. It's sort of a rrrrr ----rrrrrr -rrrrr noise, but it has a slight buzz to it too, like something is vibrating. It's hard to say which side it is coming from. It only occurs when turning to the right. But recently it sometimes occurs when going straight, but slow, like when approaching a stop light. Braking seems to have no effect. The other symptom is the left rear tire has very definite cupping. There are easy to see flat spots on the surface of the tire. The tire isn't perfectly round in other words, but more like an alternating sequence of flat spots. The other 3 tires don't have this cupping, they show a normal wear pattern.
I jacked up the rear of the car and tested each tire to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled, pushed, twisted. I could detect no play at all in either tire. I spun the tires by hand, and there was no unusual noise. They both just spun quietly, freely, with no apparent wobble or anything unusual. The service manual says the rear wheel bearing is bad if there is 0.2 mm of axial play. I doubt I could have detected 0.2 mm of play the way I did it, just pulling on the tire.
The only other thing I noticed is that the (rear) toe-in adjustment is different on the left than on the left. By this I mean the eccentric bolt-gadget is set on different marks on each side. The right one looks like it is set to have more toe in that the left. The right one is 4 marks positive toe-in, the left is 1 marks positive toe-in. I'm assuming these marks are just for reference, and don't represent the actual toe-in, just that's the setting it took to get the rear wheel alignment correct when the car was built.
Do I have a rear wheel bearing problem? A rear-tire alignment problem? Something else?
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I slid, probably going about 20-25mph. Driver side tire hit the curb. Rim looks scraped, tire appears to be fine, steering wheel is a little loose feeling.
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Last week I was losing pressure on my left rear tire. It turned out to be a 3 inch spike that was bent inside the tire. The tires are the original Goodyears with 37k miles on them. I decided to replace 2 rear tires with Yokohama YK580s and turned the extra Goodyear in to a full size spare
Question. At high speeds 50 plus the rear feels like it's sliding a bit if I barely move the steering wheel. Having issues with 2 different tires.
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The rear left side is rubbing over bumps with 2 adults in the back...
Specs are as follows :
Rays VR G25
19x8.5 ET45
19x9.5 ET42
Goodyear AS2 Front - 225/35/19, Rear - 265/30/19
Lowered on HKS Max IV GT
Really want to keep the lowered look and in fact I want to lower the rear 5mm more. Thinking of changing to 255 in place of the 265 for the rear.
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Minor rattle when going over bumps! It sounds like drivers side rear... I have had a chance to check of anything in the car was loose (spare tire tools etc...). Found my problem, now I just have to confirm its the rear driver seat belt not resting correctly.
1. Intermittent rattle behind driver
-check rear seat belts that they are actually resting on the cushion loop.
-check rear passenger window switch.
-check door strikers
2. Bass rattle front doors
-check with dealer
3. Rattle at rear of car
-check spare wheel and tool compartment.
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I have a 2013 Corolla with about 6000 miles on it. The drivers side door mysteriously locks after my wife gets home in the evenings. We do not lock it at the house, but when we get into it after she gets home to go somewhere, the driver side door is locked, but none of the rest of the doors. Is there a recall for this problem? Or is it something new that Toyota has not discovered yet? It's the only problem I've had so far with this car, so far it has done this four times in the last month. I just turned in an 07 Tundra with 250,000 miles and had only one problem with where it went into " Limp" mode because of water in some emissions control box at around 160,000 miles, so I hope to get as good service out of the Corolla. It is not the auto relock feature, as I'm familiar with that function on the Tundra.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Camry. I started hearing this knocking noise(really loud pop) from the rear. I have read the TSB's about a knocking noise coming from the "Spring Bumper" from the strut assembly and they are all facing the correct way. And there was also a TSB for a knocking noise from the "Roof Structure." The dampening bonds come apart and makes a knocking noise. I've replaced a strut mount in the right rear and that did not fix the problem.
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Why my 1995 740i only blows out cold on the drivers side and warm on the pass side? this happens when i put the a/c on.
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The A/C in my 2007 ES 350 blows about 20 degrees warmer out the drivers side than passenger side with both sides set the the same temp.
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I've just bought a 1996 celica GT. It has very low mileage and is in great general shape for it's age. There is one thing that annoys me and it's a clicking sound coming from the rear passenger side wheel when going over bumps (I hear it a low speeds as tire noise take over after I guess). I was wondering if I should be looking for different signs when I jack it up? Worn bushings? And is there a way to reproduce the sound. I've read about the rear bushing being a problem on these cars... is it true?
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I hope this car isn't going to turn out to be a regret.. I've had it a couple weeks and have nothing but minor issues.. Now the rear drivers side tire is leaking air. I really don't want to bring a car with 500 miles to the dealer, I don't trust them. I could take the tire off and bring it to a tire shop but what could be the cause? I have no vibrations so I wouldn't assume the wheel. From that I can tell it doesn't look like anything is sticking out of it..
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I have an MK6 2011 GTI that's been rock solid, but I'm having a weird problem with my 2010 Tiguan Wolfsburg with 52k miles. The 5yr warranty expired in July.
This weekend my wife catch a nail on the road and got a flat tire on the rear right side. It was the late night, no open tire shop open. We put the spare tire drive to home. Next morning when I was going to the tire shop the Tiguan and a message appeared on the MFI.
Here's the codes/messages that appeared at the same time.
ESP/ABS error.
Airbag error.
Steering wheel light on. (Yellow)
Electric Parking Brake light on. (Yellow)
Does a fault abs sensor would light all this? I saw there's a air bag error recall in a thread. I ordered the abs sensor, also the tensioner update kit to prevent failure?
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So my rear driver side tire blew at 24k miles. Dropped with Tein H techs when I first bought and had it aligned via lexus. 14 months later and tire blew. The thread on the tire was very worn on the inner side of the tire so I had to exchanged them both. I order the Michelin ps2 and now it's rubbing ?
Why is the Michelin rubbing when the tires are the exact same specs as factory? Didn't know I had to get camber kits for just H Techs.
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I've been having problems with my unlock on my drivers side recently, it locks on the drivers side but does not unlock, it also locks AND unlocks on the passenger side. It just does not unlock on the drivers side, this has gone off and on sometimes it works, most of the time though it does not at all.
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