Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: U341e Transmission Drain Plug Torque?
Jul 17, 2015
The transmission drain plug torque on a 2011 Corolla s, u341e transmission.
I have heard 36ft lbs, I just feel like that is a lot and want to confirm. Any horror stories on snapping these plugs? I'm planning to get new crush washers.
Any experience with just using a fluid extractor to do multiple drain and fills from the dipstick? I've heard the tubing can sometimes melt/break off, but was considering this route to not have to deal with snapping a drain plug.
Tried searching, tried checking my hanyes manual and my factory service manual I have in pdf, neither lists a torque, or at least that I can find.
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What is the ATF drain plug size and its torque spec?
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I'm about to do a transmission fluid change on my 2009 Toyota Corolla and couldn't find the transmission fluid drain plug. Google search revealed various answers - located on transmission pan - located on transmission itself. Looking for a picture of where it's located for a 10th gen Corolla?
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Is the sunroof drain supposed to drain into the trunk? Check out this pic:
Is the Tube supposed to be going where that plug is? If so, is there a specific Toyota plug part number I should use?
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I looked around and couldn't find the specs for the valve cover bolts.. I'm assuming it'll be a pretty low torque like 20 ft-lbs.
This'll be the 2ZR-FE 1.8L engine.
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Yesterday, I upgraded my door speakers to Fosgate PPS4-8's. They Fit beautifully, and I just have them in the original hole, standing on 3/4" spacers.
Removing my fosgate power 6.75's, I found that there were droplets of water all over the back of them. When you are driving in the rain, water comes in the drain right under the speaker.
The new 8's have baffles that I made out of cheap paint buckets from lowes until the real ones get here. I'm kinda unhappy with Toyota right now. I had assumed that because the stock speaker didn't have any protection, that it would be good.
The PPS4-8's are a midbass speaker, not a woofer. They are good for 80Hz to 5KHz. I went with them because I had a huge hole in my midrange that I couldn't correct because I had no midrange drivers. All 2-way's.
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I seem to be having a leak occuring from somewhere within the engine compartment, as I see beads of water dripping into the driver side and passenger side carpets. It only occurs when I turn the fan/A/C on.
This is leading me to believe that the evaporator drain is clogged, the only issue is: Where is it exactly located? I'm looking near the passenger side firewall within the engine compartment for a small black rubber hose, but I can't seem to find it. Is it further down underneath the firewall?
To add insult to injury, the VSA, traction control and check engine light both turned on today. I'm not sure if this is the result of persistent water leaking and causing something to short (I don't really know how water has been leaking for) but what could've caused that?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
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What are the correct torque settings for oil drain plug, oil filter and spark plugs on a 2.0 FSI engine?
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New 2014 SE 2.5L owner here. Gonna Amsoil my rig when it hits 5K. I bought a filter wrench and drain plug gaskets online. What's the torque spec. on the filter housing and drain plug?
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I have a Corolla 2009 LE and few days ago I have noticed that my secondary 12v lighter plug which is at the bottom of the box between two front seats is not working. I used to use it to with a cheap charger for my old phone and at one point the charger stopped working but I have never checked the plug it self. So recently I got a new phone with the charger but I figured out that the plug itself has no power to it. One in the front dashboard works but I use that one for GPS.
Now I have searched the net to try and figure if any other Corolla owners have reported the issue and found quite a few. They were mentioning that it's most likely a micro fuse burned out which is located under the steering wheel to the left. So I found the box, opened it from the bottom and there are about 20 Micro fuses there but I can't figure out which one would be the one that breaks the power to that secondary 12v plug in the box between the two front seats.
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Gonna change my oil in a hour or so and I was wondering what the torque spec is for the oil drain plug.
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Ive been using synthetic 5w-20 for about 7k miles on my 09 corolla s, has hit 100k. Was looking under the engine and small amount of oil on the drain plug. I had the drain plug replaced about 15k miles ago and not sure if thats where its actually leaking from.
Should I switch to high mileage oil? Ive used 5w-30 high mileage awhile ago to go with the good ol oil consumption with this year engine and didnt like the dip in mpg's and felt like the car couldnt run as well as it should. I switched to synthetic to take better care of the engine after using high mileage for about 6k miles.
Question 1 - Should I switch back to high mileage?
Questions 2 - Should I use Lucas oil leak product? (I use the gas cleaner)
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Car - 2011 Corolla S - Auto Transmission
My transmission seems to slip when it is shifting from 3rd into 4th. The second that it shifts into 3rd gear the rpm drops and shifts into 4th (This is when i have light to medium pressure on the pedal). If i push the pedal down 3/4 of the way once the transmission shifts into third then the rpm rise for at least 4-5 seconds (which seems more normal). In addition the shifts are a bit rough when the transmission is shifting up or down.I am looking for some insight before having a dealership jerk me around.
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My transmission blew out at 64000 kms.
At first I thought it was my calipers - on my breaks that were frozen. Very laggy when I was driving there one day - took the car into car wash sprayed the breaks with hot water. Then Air Dried the with compressed air from compressor.
Next day while driving to work - the car got really sluggish again and this time there was a funny sweet smell coming through my vents.
Stopped car - called tow truck to take me to break shop - When tow truck arrives - He lifts my car up and there is a dark red fluid under transmission.
Called the right place because they also do transmission work.
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I just bought a 2013 Barcelona Red Corolla S in Manual transmission. Already, I've noticed how rough the transmission is when I shift. But it's only roughy when I first step on the clutch. But if I keep the clutch pedal down, all the gears shift smoothly, until I release the clutch and press it down again, then the first shift is really rough. Especially REVERSE, when I shift into reverse, it's so rough that it shakes the car. There's no grind, just very rough. It sounds like someone cocked a shotgun. Everything is smooth when driving tho, only happens at full stop.
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we bought a Toyota Levin 2013 in December New Zealand. We loved the car and for the first three months it went well. Then the transmission? started playing up. First thing on a clear crisp cold morning ( or that seems to be one trigger) we would move off from stationary and it would start to accelerate and then it loses power and almost comes to a stop ( approx 30 secs) then it would engage and move off. This has happened 5-7 times and is dangerous. It will also do this when hot and going up a hill. Toyota is trying to say this is a characteristic and there is nothing wrong. To me it is dangerous.. I haven't noticed the engine light go on.
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I want to know if its possible to swap in the 5 speed automatic transmission from the corolla xrs to the 1.8 trying to get that extra gear and sequential shift mode , or how it could be done a 4speed to 5 speed manual swap?
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On older cars I've owned, this has never happened. But ever since day 1, my car has been jolting everytime I shift from P to R. (Yes I'm backing out). Is this normal? If not, what should I do?
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed auto
Been having a harsh 1-2 upshift issue lately. Had my car into a transmission shop as the dealer keeps saying nothing is wrong and the shop told me they got a p1603 code. Is this a problem and what should I do?
The mechanics writing was bad so I am unsure if it is p1603 or p1e03. I have tried looking up the code and it is a variety of things. One says engine stall history? All I remember doing recently is disconnecting the battery to try and reset the transmission computer and after the first start the car stalled then it started fine.
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I have a 2010 toyota corolla s. I've noticed that during idle (in drive, braked) the RPM can sometimes run from 800 to 1,000. meaning, it is constantly changing while the car isn't moving. is that normal? Also, I've noticed that my rpm also jumps whenever i turn on the air conditioning. is that normal as well?
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