Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Transmission Seems To Slip When It Is Shifting From 3rd Into 4th
Jan 18, 2016
Car - 2011 Corolla S - Auto Transmission
My transmission seems to slip when it is shifting from 3rd into 4th. The second that it shifts into 3rd gear the rpm drops and shifts into 4th (This is when i have light to medium pressure on the pedal). If i push the pedal down 3/4 of the way once the transmission shifts into third then the rpm rise for at least 4-5 seconds (which seems more normal). In addition the shifts are a bit rough when the transmission is shifting up or down.I am looking for some insight before having a dealership jerk me around.
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I just bought a 2013 Barcelona Red Corolla S in Manual transmission. Already, I've noticed how rough the transmission is when I shift. But it's only roughy when I first step on the clutch. But if I keep the clutch pedal down, all the gears shift smoothly, until I release the clutch and press it down again, then the first shift is really rough. Especially REVERSE, when I shift into reverse, it's so rough that it shakes the car. There's no grind, just very rough. It sounds like someone cocked a shotgun. Everything is smooth when driving tho, only happens at full stop.
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On older cars I've owned, this has never happened. But ever since day 1, my car has been jolting everytime I shift from P to R. (Yes I'm backing out). Is this normal? If not, what should I do?
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We have a 2009 Matrix, 68000 miles. automatic transmission has a loud clunk when down shifting on a hill. Has only happened a few times and cant seem to make it happen. Am really concerned what this might be.
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The transmission is shifting extremely hard when it downshifts to make a pass.
Any other time it shifts fine, this is the only scenario it happens in.
It is pretty violent, shifting with a bang.
It is a 2010 corolla, auto, with 70k miles, I have never changed the fluid, and I don't think it has anything to do with it.
The tech said it might be the battery, as it was going bad. I put a new battery in, and it didn't seem to do it for two weeks or so, but is now back doing it again.
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My 2013 Corolla drove 10 minutes with heavy steering after starting. The slip indicator turned on and stays on after. Would OBD II show the problem? Can one read OBD II without scanner? How to turn off the slip indicator?
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE, about 58k miles. The latest work I did was replace the brake pads, rotate the tires and changed the oil a little over 2 weeks ago. Everything was normal so far. Yesterday I drove for about an hour, again everything was fine, but after stopping at a gas station and starting I have several indicator lights come on.
- Slip indicator, flashing
- TRAC OFF, constant
- ABS, flashing
- Electric power steering warning light, flashes but turns off after about 30 seconds.
I tried my OBD scanner with no luck, but figures since there was no Check Engine light.
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed a/t
I have noticed that when my car shifts from second into third gear at around 50 km/hr that the rpm drops twice. It shifts (almost seemingly to a 2.5 gear) and the rpm drops and then a second later it's like it shifts again and the rpm drops again, is this torque converter lock up I am experiencing?
This also usually happens when I give it light throttle and not when I am heavily accelerating.
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I have a 2011 Corolla S Automatic with approx. 22,000 miles. This winter it is not wanting to shift from 3rd to 4th gear when it's cold (35 degrees F or lower). After I've driven about 1/2 to 3/4 mile it will finally upshift. It did not do this last winter.
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I currently own a Toyota Corolla VVTI 1.8 2009 GLI. I have been racing this car here at our auto drome for over a year. Last race it starting giving me real bad issues with shifting on the track. I can be a 5,900 RPM and shift to a higher gear and the car will choke and drown and it takes forever to recognize I'm accelerating. I know this is because of the computer and the electronic accelerator it comes with ( I can't remember it's name in English). My gas pedal is Denso and I understand there is an adaption that can be done to the cable to trick the computer.
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I have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
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Had a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
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I have a 2009 Corolla LE. I've had these issues since buying the car last year. Issue #1 : when initially accelerating from a stop through 1st and 2nd gears, there's a slight vibration felt through the steering wheel and vehicle. If it's just a gentle acceleration it typically doesn't aggravate the issue as much as a quicker acceleration. Issue #2 : This car is very sensitive to varying types of road conditions. One patch of road can seem smooth as silk. Then another patch will feel rough and bumpy. The road appears to have no bumps or imperfections. I just put brand new tires on the other day, and its still doing this. And I feel all of the road imperfections the most through the steering wheel. I'll briefly take my hands off the steering wheel to see if I feel it in the cabin, and its not as bad as it is through the steering wheel.
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I bought a new corolla 2009, automatic transmission (Not Robotic!) From the first day, when shifting from first to second gear the car makes an unnatural noise, like a whistle or a whine. (during shifting and sometimes a little bit before).
It only happens in the transition from first to second. It does not depend on the RPM at the moment. When the engine is cold, in the morning, the sound is still there, but weaker, when the engine warms up, the sound keeps appearing for the rest of the day. (I live in a country with a hot climate)
I have been told, 2009 model has the same transmission just as previous models, is it true? or there have been some changes in it?
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My transmission blew out at 64000 kms.
At first I thought it was my calipers - on my breaks that were frozen. Very laggy when I was driving there one day - took the car into car wash sprayed the breaks with hot water. Then Air Dried the with compressed air from compressor.
Next day while driving to work - the car got really sluggish again and this time there was a funny sweet smell coming through my vents.
Stopped car - called tow truck to take me to break shop - When tow truck arrives - He lifts my car up and there is a dark red fluid under transmission.
Called the right place because they also do transmission work.
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we bought a Toyota Levin 2013 in December New Zealand. We loved the car and for the first three months it went well. Then the transmission? started playing up. First thing on a clear crisp cold morning ( or that seems to be one trigger) we would move off from stationary and it would start to accelerate and then it loses power and almost comes to a stop ( approx 30 secs) then it would engage and move off. This has happened 5-7 times and is dangerous. It will also do this when hot and going up a hill. Toyota is trying to say this is a characteristic and there is nothing wrong. To me it is dangerous.. I haven't noticed the engine light go on.
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I want to know if its possible to swap in the 5 speed automatic transmission from the corolla xrs to the 1.8 trying to get that extra gear and sequential shift mode , or how it could be done a 4speed to 5 speed manual swap?
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed auto
Been having a harsh 1-2 upshift issue lately. Had my car into a transmission shop as the dealer keeps saying nothing is wrong and the shop told me they got a p1603 code. Is this a problem and what should I do?
The mechanics writing was bad so I am unsure if it is p1603 or p1e03. I have tried looking up the code and it is a variety of things. One says engine stall history? All I remember doing recently is disconnecting the battery to try and reset the transmission computer and after the first start the car stalled then it started fine.
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I have a 2010 toyota corolla s. I've noticed that during idle (in drive, braked) the RPM can sometimes run from 800 to 1,000. meaning, it is constantly changing while the car isn't moving. is that normal? Also, I've noticed that my rpm also jumps whenever i turn on the air conditioning. is that normal as well?
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What Model Number Automatic Transmission does the 2012 LE have?
When was the first year they used this transmission?
Has this transmission been used in any other cars?
Does it have the reliability record Toyota is known for, or is it too early to tell?
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Just purchased a 2009 Matrix XRS Manual transmission with 67,000 miles on it. I can't get the VSC Off and Traction lights on the panel to go out.
During our test drive, I had turned the system on and off to make sure it was working, and didn't seem to have any trouble with it.
I went to have it inspected yesterday. During the test, they hook up to the ODBII port to check emissions. The tech had trouble getting it connected the first time, saying the connection was going in and out. Eventually, they were able to get it connected properly and passed the inspection.
After they pulled the car out of the bay, the VSC Off and Traction lights were solid on, and they have been every time I've started the car since. Checking the manual, all I should have to do to turn the system back on is press the traction button, but that doesn't seem to be working at all. I also tried holding it down for 30 seconds or so with no luck.
The lights aren't flashing, so I don't think this is an error, I'm wondering if the computer got confused somehow with the ODBII port issues.
Stuff I've tried:
1. Followed these instructions for the Highlander Hybrid thinking maybe Toyotas will generally do this. That just caused most of the lights to flash on the panel and didn't bring up any VSC diagnostic messages.
2. I pulled the panel from the dash out to check to make sure the button was working, and I do get connectivity between the two outside pins while the button is pushed in.
how to get this to reset, or what the problem might be?
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