Tomorrow I'm taking my car in to have them look at my transmission. I started noticing that whenever I put the car in first, it almost feels like the front tires are skipping off the ground. It does the same thing when I put it in second. At first, I thought it might have been caused by my 18" rims, so I switched over to the stock wheels. Same crap.
View 12 RepliesI just purchased my first Toyota Matrix We live on-top of a mountain with a 1+ mile rough gravel road leading to our house and I didnt quite think about the low ground clearance and hard suspension set up when I purchased the Matrix It looks like the regular Matrix has softer springs and more ground clearance then the (S) model Is it relatively straight forward to switch out the suspension and would it give me more ground clearance.
View 2 Repliesmy car is basically bone stock (2010 Corolla S). I'm looking at getting Eibach lowering springs fairly soon, and later on new tires/wheels. My question is what are the biggest wheels and tires I can get after I install these springs? Will 17" rims fit? Or does it depend on the tire as well?
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Yeah, like what I said on other thread (what did you do....) I installed new set of tires. I know most of guys here prefer not to have light on their dash, but I was worried because after I installed it the light did now show up even my new tires doesn't have TPMS sensor.
View 4 RepliesAfter driving the corolla 10 mi or more , I always smell burning rubber at the rear tires.
Could it be the rear alignment?
Is it adjustable?
Eventually, I'd like to replace the steel wheels on my Corolla LE (P195 65 R15) with ultra light wheels and low rolling resistance tires.
View 12 RepliesHaving an issue with 2nd gear in their automatic trans. I find that 1st pulls great, but then it shifts and just feels bogged down until it gets out of 2nd, and then it feels free again in 3rd and 4th. Wondering if this could be a problem with the transmission itself or if it just needs the shift points re-tuned?
View 2 RepliesSo the grind in 3rd gear is getting pretty bad. I have to put it into third slowly and 4th sometimes grinds a bit. Could it be the slave or master cylinder?
View 8 Replies2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed a/t
I have noticed that when my car shifts from second into third gear at around 50 km/hr that the rpm drops twice. It shifts (almost seemingly to a 2.5 gear) and the rpm drops and then a second later it's like it shifts again and the rpm drops again, is this torque converter lock up I am experiencing?
This also usually happens when I give it light throttle and not when I am heavily accelerating.
I have a 2010 Corolla S that I bought new. It has a manual transmission, 19k miles and I have not had any problems until recently. Let me start by saying I've been driving a manual for over 20 years so I know how to drive them.
That night, in 1st gear it rolled out of my driveway. My driveway has a mild incline that the car has been parked on for a year this way with no problems. When I went to pull it back on it gave me trouble starting as if the starter got stuck but did not engage with the motor. Once started I pulled it back on and noticed that every few seconds it rolls back a couple inches then stops and holds for 15-20 seconds then rolls again.
It does this until it finds a flat spot to land on. Everytime its parked on my driveway now it wont stay there. Now before you tell me to use the p-brake, which by the way is the dealerships solution, let me remind you that the car has been parked in this spot everyday for a year with NO issues until last week.
Since this started I've been using the p-beake but I want to know why its doing this all of a sudden.
I have an issue, and I think the answer is to drain and fill the transmission fluid a few times. I have an automatic 2010 S with 87,000 miles. I did a drain and fill on the transmission fluid about 15,000 miles ago - just a single drain and fill.
Here's the issue. Normal driving down the road, everything feels and shifts great. However, if I'm rolling along and then floor it wide open, usually the car will shift straight from overdrive to second gear. If the car downshifts only one gear, like from OD to 3, or 3 to 2, it's nice and smooth. However, in the situations described above, if I really nail the throttle, I get a hesitation and a very rough shift almost every time from OD to 2. That said, if I'm going down the highway and know I'm going to need second gear to pass someone and I shift it into second manually while accelerating, it's smooth with no issues.
I looked at the fluid the other day. It's a little over filled on the dipstick and it's a dark red. Not brown, but it's definitely overdue for some TLC. I'm just wondering if the symptoms are classic for two or three back-to-back fluid changes or if this is a sign of a larger issue.
I have a 2011 Corolla S Automatic with approx. 22,000 miles. This winter it is not wanting to shift from 3rd to 4th gear when it's cold (35 degrees F or lower). After I've driven about 1/2 to 3/4 mile it will finally upshift. It did not do this last winter.
View 7 RepliesMy Toyota corolla 2011 started to shift a bit hard from first gear to second gear and sometimes it feels a bit like choking since November of last year after I started to commute about 38 miles to work. It happens when I am taking off and going straight and it doesn't happen when I am turning left or right. I have taken it to the dealer once, they reset the transmission computer, but it still felt the same and the way the other gears shift felt a bit differently.
I have seen a similar complaint about the same issue of gear shift from first to second in the NHTSA website and another forum with the same issue with a 2009 corolla with a seemingly loose motor mount.
Recently purchased my first Toyota, a 2012 Corolla S with 76,000 miles on the ODO. I have a concern about a front end rumbling.
First, the problem...
This "rumble" (the best way I can describe it) starts becoming noticeable around 20-25 mph, depending on the condition of the road I'm on (it could be lower, but I'm in Michigan, all the roads are bad here). This rumble isn't a noise, but more of a low frequency sensation that can be felt in the car and through the steering wheel, and vibrates the rear view mirror. The rumble comes and goes, it isn't constant. Sort of like driving over a rumble strips put on roads before stop signs/intersections, it seems to have an oscillation to it. The rumble intensifies very little with speed. It doesn't seem to oscillate any faster or rumble much harder, it's just there.
Things I've ruled out...
Brakes. When I bought the car, the first thing I noticed was that the front brake rotors were slightly warped, so I installed new rotors and good pads. That didn't get rid of the problem, though I didn't really expect it to.
Tires. The previous owner had seriously over-inflated these tires. Once taken down to their proper pressure, they were noticeably cupped down the middle. These tires were also horribly noisy would not balance, so brand new tires went on (Michelins). The new tires greatly improved the ride, reduced noise, and got rid of a lot of other shakes and vibrations, but the "rumble" remains.
Wheel Bearings. I'm not 100% on this one, but as far as I can tell, it's not the wheel bearings. I've taken the car out on twisty roads and there is no change in the rumble through hard turns, nor any additional vibrations of any kind. Usually bad wheel bearings will exhibit some noise or vibration when being loaded in a turn, but not in this case, so I've ruled them out.
Things I'm not sure about...
CV Joints. I've never had a CV joint go bad or fail on me, so I am unfamiliar with the common signs and symptoms. I have inspected the boots, and they appear to be in good condition and crack free, though that doesn't mean a joint isn't failing. There's no clicking during slow sharp turns, but I think that would only present itself if an outer joint was failing. I'm going to get the car in the air this weekend to do a drain and fill on the tranny (the fluid is getting pretty dark, so I want to get some new in there).
I drove a Ford Focus for the past 10 years and a Ford Contour for 10 years before that, putting over 200,000 miles on both, and never experienced any sort of problem like this.
My Axles started to make noises couple months ago While making Sharp turns. I bought some new axles for the front, but this will be my first time replacing CV Axles.
Any tips and or recommendations on what to do and not do, and tools to use? I watched a couple Youtube videos already. I plan on changing them out this weekend.
There Is a click in my front wheels that is audible as I slow down. What is going on. nothing else is wrong with the car. I have a 2013 corolla le....
View 3 RepliesI bought a new corolla 2009, automatic transmission (Not Robotic!) From the first day, when shifting from first to second gear the car makes an unnatural noise, like a whistle or a whine. (during shifting and sometimes a little bit before).
It only happens in the transition from first to second. It does not depend on the RPM at the moment. When the engine is cold, in the morning, the sound is still there, but weaker, when the engine warms up, the sound keeps appearing for the rest of the day. (I live in a country with a hot climate)
I have been told, 2009 model has the same transmission just as previous models, is it true? or there have been some changes in it?
I recently purchased a new 2010 Toyota Corolla LE auto and I really like it. I have about 2000 miles on it now and just recently noticed a faint gear whine coming from the transmission at around 60 mph. You can only hear it when the radio is off and you really listen for it during the acceleration. It only does it when transmission fluid is fully warmed up after driving for about 15 miles. 2010 corolla uses U341E transmission that specifies Toyota WS transmission fluid. I noticed that 2001 - 2005 Supra uses the same transmission but it requires T-IV fluid which has more viscosity than WS. Noticed this faint gear whine on this car or do I need to take it to the dealer? My other car 2003 Toyota Echo uses U340E transmission and it has gear whine as well, except it is more pronounced than in Corolla, so I an trying to figure out if this is normal for this transmission or not.
View 10 RepliesI had put on about 300 miles on the car in my sig before this started happening. Every once in a while as the car goes to upshift it will free rev a couple hundred rpm before falling into the next gear. I have not been driving it hard at all and have been driving easy when this happens.
Could be something as simple as needing a fluid change but the thing only has 34,000 miles on it, I hope it's not serious.
Upon a cold start up it sounds like the serp belt squeaks for about half a second on a pulley that isn't spinning freely. That's what it sounds like. I am just wondering, are these "known issues" with these cars?
I have a 2010 S with 70,000 miles. At 60,000 miles, just after the warranty ran out on me, I started to get a gear grinding noise for approximately one second immediately following a cold startup. It doesn't happen all the time, but I'd say once out of every eight starts on cold mornings after it's been sitting. I researched the issue pretty extensively and it seems to narrow down to the cam timing gear being the issue or a bad starter relay. The 2009's had a TSB for the issue being a cam timing gear, but the dealer assures me that my vehicle is not one of the ones covered by the TSB.
I'm inclined to try the relay fix, since a new relay is only $60. The thing is, I would hate to install the part and find out that the issue remains and then be out $60. Any identical relay elsewhere in the car that I can swap it with to see if that work. Of course, if the relay is bad, I'd be breaking something else possibly. Or, even better, is there a way to test the relay to see if is the cause of the problem?
I have a 2010 Corolla S with automatic transmission. Today it started giving a push or a jerk when the 1st gear drops, so from 1st going to 2nd it pushes or jerks the car ahead. Not sure what is wrong with it, it has 56000 miles on it.
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