Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Found A Red Light Blinking By Shift Knob
Apr 9, 2014
Woke up this morning and found a red light blinking by my shift knob. It was the passenger air bag. There was a lock on it. How come its doing that? My car is turned off. Could there be a problem with my air bag or was it just a code?
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just got my new 2012 Corolla S AUTOMATIC and want to see if this knob will fit my shifter. Any tips on removing the OEM auto shift knob? URL...
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This morning I started my car, which was parked on an incline, with the car in gear (manual tranny) without remembering that I had left the car in gear. So, when I started the car, it lurched forward when I took my foot off of the clutch pedal. No big deal. I started the car again, but now the check engine light and abs lights are on steady, and the VCS is blinking. The car drove normal all the way to work. When I got to work, I shut the car off and started it up again, but the 3 warning lights are still on.
Is there a re-set procedure for the lights that happens automatically, or do I have to have someone with a scan tool reset it?
Could there actually be something wrong with the car?
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I just purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla with Airbag Light ON (not blinking). Yes car was in an accident, but Air Bags did not deployed as per the seller. It needs to re-calibrate by Dealer.
As a novice, and avid Toyota person, since it's a good deal I decided to take the car with the airbag lights on. I have seen on youtube, the cause is likely the spiral cable.
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The fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
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I have a 2009 Matrix. The AC just stopped working as we were going down the road. The voltage at the compressor was 2.6 volts. the same voltage at the HVAC module I don't hear the compressor kick on at all, engine speed doesn't change when the AC button is toggled on and off.
The AC light stays on steady not blinking. I am pretty sure that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
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Recently the control knob is not working. No matter what position I select it to, it comes out the top Vents. I took it to the dealership And they said the cable is severed and would cost around 700 to replace it. I was wondering if the cable is one like a rod that pushes the controller or if it is digital. Also I was wondering if I could just the middle of the dash to get to it or would the whole dash have to come out. I could do it myself if I can get to it from the middle.
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We have a 2010 corolla S and the heater knob control bulb is gone. How do I replace this?
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I have an issue, and I think the answer is to drain and fill the transmission fluid a few times. I have an automatic 2010 S with 87,000 miles. I did a drain and fill on the transmission fluid about 15,000 miles ago - just a single drain and fill.
Here's the issue. Normal driving down the road, everything feels and shifts great. However, if I'm rolling along and then floor it wide open, usually the car will shift straight from overdrive to second gear. If the car downshifts only one gear, like from OD to 3, or 3 to 2, it's nice and smooth. However, in the situations described above, if I really nail the throttle, I get a hesitation and a very rough shift almost every time from OD to 2. That said, if I'm going down the highway and know I'm going to need second gear to pass someone and I shift it into second manually while accelerating, it's smooth with no issues.
I looked at the fluid the other day. It's a little over filled on the dipstick and it's a dark red. Not brown, but it's definitely overdue for some TLC. I'm just wondering if the symptoms are classic for two or three back-to-back fluid changes or if this is a sign of a larger issue.
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Is it ok to put it on Neutral while I'm on stop, stop light, etc. while the engine is running? I have an Automatic....
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My Toyota corolla 2011 started to shift a bit hard from first gear to second gear and sometimes it feels a bit like choking since November of last year after I started to commute about 38 miles to work. It happens when I am taking off and going straight and it doesn't happen when I am turning left or right. I have taken it to the dealer once, they reset the transmission computer, but it still felt the same and the way the other gears shift felt a bit differently.
I have seen a similar complaint about the same issue of gear shift from first to second in the NHTSA website and another forum with the same issue with a 2009 corolla with a seemingly loose motor mount.
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Why does the automatic transmission stay in 3rd gear and not shift into overdrive until it gets warmed up? It is so annoying. This is the only car that has ever done this. Even the camry I don't think does this. Especially the fact that the rpms stay above 1k rpm until the engine is warmed up.
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Today I decided to change my rotors and pads out.. Got everything back together and i believe car is in limp mode.. It wont shift out of 3rd.. Abs light on ,check engine light, traction control and stability control light on.. Also my speedometer doesn't work but my rpm"s do...hooked up scan tool and comes back as wheel speed sensors.. I never touched them or removed them....
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What the problem is? still drive-able?
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2010 Corolla LE ... This started today, on the ride home from work. Mid 50 degrees, light rain, driving down straight road it started. Engine light also on. No mods in car. is this something the dealer has to se, or can I bring it to my own mechanic?
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One of my light bulbs for the rear license plate light is out.
what kind of light bulb I need to get?
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So I was on my way home i was 2 miles away from my house and my abs light and e-brake light randomly go on. I got home and turned car off and back on and it was still there.
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So I bought and installed bc coilovers and my abs light and 2 other lights came on. I did accidently mess up one of the wires on the front left strut but it is not torn in half or anything just sliced into a little. I electrical taped it back together.
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I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
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I am trying to change the color of the light on my dash board and center console from the standard orange to a light blue color. I've tried searching the internet looking for any advice but I haven't come across anything for a 2009 Toyota corolla. I understand that some cars need to have the light bulbs soldered and some can you can change out a colored film. Which of these options applies to my car? If it's the light bulb change then what size and how many. Also, how to take out the instrumental cluster.
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My wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
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