Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Clunking / Popping Noise When Turning And Accelerating Left
Dec 30, 2015
Have a 2010 Corolla, 42k miles, from a dead stop, turn left under power with wheel about 90% of one full turn, get a clunking popping clicking noise from the front end -- I cannot tell if from the left or right side -- I've been in the back seat too, and cannot determine if the noise is coming from the left or right side up front. I've had the car since 34k miles, has been making this sound ever since, not sure if its gotten worse, if it has, maybe just a little.
No noise if turning while NOT under power (coasting). No noise if turning to the right. No noise while driving in a straight line or veering left at a higher speed. Also, I tried to recreate this noise from a dead stop, turning going in reverse, both left and right, and no noise ever.
If in a parking lot, from a dead start, turn wheel left almost one full turn, accelerating slowly I can get the car to make this sound continuously (until I start going too fast beyond my comfort zone).
Have looked under car jacked up several times, nothing obvious. CV axles have minimal play and the boots are in great shape. Suspension parts appear ok.
My gut tells me could be a CV axle, but not certain, and I don't know which side..... something else that could cause this ?
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I just bought a 09 Corolla S a month ago. In the last few days I've been hearing a popping/knocking noise while I'm driving. It sounds like it is coming from one of the wheels but which one. It usually happens once I decelerate or driving at low speeds. If I brake the noise will stop. The rhythm of the noise doesn't seem to be consistent with speed I'm driving. It happens more often on bumpy roads but it still happens on smooth roads. I'm wondering what are the possible problems that are could cause this?
I don't know if this would relate to the sounds I mentioned but when I bought this car it had brake problems. It would grind pretty loud. The dealership ended up replacing new rear drums. So when I drove it home everything sounded good for about a week. The grinding noise came back and after I sprayed some brake cleaner it went away for a few days. I'm assuming thats what the dealership did to hide the noise. I went ahead and changed the front pads and that worked for a week or so...but the grinding noise is back. I was about to change my rotors this weekend when the popping/knocking sound I mentioned above started happening.
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when I'm slowly accelerating from a stop there's a repetitive metallic ticking sound from 1st-2nd gear and it goes away after it changes to 3rd. I drive an automatic with 15k miles btw. It comes and goes but when I have a heavy foot off the line, the ticking goes away.
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So this phenomenon only happens when I try to rapidly open my throttle but what happens is that I feel a huge bucking in the rear while I'm accelerating.
This bucking makes a loud thud noise and I was wondering if this is normal considering the circumstances under which this occurs.
If I can guess what's happening I think my engine doesn't have enough air and when I rapidly push down the accelerator I'm trying to force in air and fuel and the result is a rapid combustion which causes the bucking effect that I'm experiencing.
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I performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and it's making a loud grinding metallic noise on the front left side. It does it while I drive the faster I go the louder it gets. When I turn to the left it makes it louder, when I turn right the noise decreases. PG&E have been breaking the roads by where I live and there's a lot of little rocks I drive thru. I'm wondering if that's the problem?? What do I do?
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So today I was driving around and suddenly my VSC ABS and Brake light came on. I thought it was because I didn't engage my e brake so I stopped pulled it up and put it down. It was still there but disappeared after a while
Then later it came back up. This time I went to slow down and pull aside. While slowing down my car suddenly had a grinding/jerking noise and motion.
Now my passenger HID doesn't work. Also when I turn off car it kind of shudders/shakes.
Could it be a voltage issue?My brakes are kind of going bad. I switched the builds around by putting the driver bulb into the passenger bulb and it works. So is that a bulb issue or is it related to the VSC?
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Got a 2010 Corolla S (105k mi) . I have a noise in the front end. I hear it occasionally when I'm braking, and other times when I'm turning left. Just started tonight. I really need to get this fixed before I go out of town in a few weeks. Don't want to leave my wife with am unsafe car.
Anyway the sound varies, sometimes it's more noticeable then others. The first time I heard it I thought I ran over something metal. It has a sound as if someone pulled on a bar and let go and it sprung into place.
The sound is in this short video, don't worry about seeing anything, but you can hear it at the end.
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I am having issues with my 2011 Matrix S. It started off bucking slightly when shifting. As time went on it started clunking at random. When it clunks, the whole car jerks violently then will start driving again. One time it clunked (if I wasn't wearing a seatbelt I would have been in the dash) I lost all power to my wheels while my car was revving at around 3000rpm, it did a large jerk/clunk and then I had power to my wheels again. Lately they have been just large clunks without losing wheel power. My car always seems to revv abnormally now and sometimes when trying to accelerate, I can have me petal to the floor and zero acelleration.
I've been in frequent contact with a Toyota dealer and they are great. I can't randomly recreate the episodes so it's hard for them to be able to diagnose the issue. I'm going to make an appointment for them to do a computer read to see if any codes have been thrown.
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Whenever I use the pandora app on the nav system my speakers always make a popping/cracking sound. It's not too loud but it can get a little annoying after a while. I do listen to my music loud but I don't think it's the speakers because when I switch to satellite radio or listen to my iPod, the popping stops.
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I am trying to fix the rear drum brakes on my girlfriends 2010 corolla. So I replaced everything (everything is new) and i took it for a drive to find some SERIOUS rear vibration and clunking. I tried adjusting the rear pads and everything.
The clunking/vibration does not happen in reverse. I don't know what to do to fix this. I have tried the self adjusting e-brake in reverse method.
-clunking happen both when applying the brake pedal and the e brake while going forward
-clunking and low speeds and major vibrations at high speeds all while braking
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I've owned my 14.5 camry se 4 cyl since may and a few weeks into owning it i noticed a pop/clunk coming from the front passenger side while reversing and turning the wheel. So, finally got some free time to take it into the dealer today and dropped it off. Also, when letting off the brakes you can hear like a creaking noise, almost like the brakes are metal to metal but it only happens LETTING OFF the brakes?
My service advisor says supposedly the "creaking" noise when letting off the brakes is normal. I told him i really don't believe that lol and asked to test drive another new camry on the lot which is being arranged for tomorrow. In the meantime he says they're gonna look at it either way.
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I have 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed automatic. I have 10,500 miles on it and I have had this transmission issue since I got the car. At times, while accelerating onto highways the car does not downshift. The car stays in 3rd gear up until 4,000 RPM. I can shift it by putting it in sport mode and shifting manually. It only does it sometimes but it does not seem normal.
Took it for my 1st service visit dealer said no codes came up on the computer and maybe it needed to be broken in. Went for 2nd service dealer told me no codes and no problems. I then wrote a letter to Toyota under the lemon law since it had 2 failed attempts at fixing it. They contacted me and said this may be normal. I do not see how it is normal.
Is it because it is a four cylinder that it has these problems? Usually it shifts correctly but I feel there is a defect but they said the computer would have codes stating problems and it does not.
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On my xl-7 upon turning left it makes a poppping noise, its real bad at complete stops,its almost like a cv axle noise. Ive taken it to the dealer at least 8 times and they replaced struts , but it still makes this noise.I also called the main Suzuki customer office and complained. They told me its just one of the characteristics of the new Xl7.
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I just recently picked myself up a 13' Corolla CE! Love it but have found some quirks that Im just wondering if this is normal with other 13' owners. Car has roughly 3000km on it so far.
-When I start the car, it almost sounds like my speakers 'pop' once I let off turning my ignition. Its not a extremely loud pop, but loud enough to make one think, "what the heck was that?" Have others had that issue
-Recently, its been a bit colder here (-3 Celsius). I have noticed it takes roughly 5 minutes of continued driving for the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. Is that normal? Should it warm quicker than that? Its almost like the thermo is stuck slightly open.
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Hear a small pop in the cab when I am turning left pulled left wheel everything looks fine. Ball mount maybe, I don't want to tear into it at this point.
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I have 2010 Corolla S with manual transmission and ever since I bought this car I've been having issues with it's steering especially on the highway between 60-70 mph when the behavior is the worst.
The car is really hard to keep inline and even though I try to keep the steering wheel centered the car just bounces around the lane from left to right. I'm sure most of you know what I'm referring to.Now, I involved my dealer into this problem few months ago and the service manager (when I pressed him during the test drive) kind of admitted that he knows what I mean but he can't do anything about it until Toyota Corporate issues an official fix to it.
Surprise surprise, I just found TSB-014010 (URL...) last week online which seems to be the fix I'm looking for and based on the comments on this forum and edmunds.com it seems to either fix completely or mostly fix the issue for the people who had it done already.
However when trying to show this TSB to my dealer's service (the same service manager as before) and schedule the appoitment I notice that they are very defensive about it and try to dismiss my claims with statements like: "they all drive like that" or "it may be tire preasure" or "based on the description that you gave us and the TSB it's not the same issue" .
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Last week I was losing pressure on my left rear tire. It turned out to be a 3 inch spike that was bent inside the tire. The tires are the original Goodyears with 37k miles on them. I decided to replace 2 rear tires with Yokohama YK580s and turned the extra Goodyear in to a full size spare
Question. At high speeds 50 plus the rear feels like it's sliding a bit if I barely move the steering wheel. Having issues with 2 different tires.
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This is what I was afraid of, left stranded. Typical morning when it is dark when you start but sunny by the time you arrive at destination. Our 2012 S does not have the automatic headlights like our 2010 LE. I did not notice this when I bought the car, just thought that a newer more expensive model would have equal features, but it did not. Not only that, but the 2012 does not even have a basic headlight safety feature that has been in Corollas and other cars for years where the headlights go off after 20 minutes when left on in order to save the battery, or even like my old Volvos where the headlights turn off when the ignition key is turned off and removed. There is a warning buzzer, but the volume is so low that most will never hear it. As a result I had to purchase a lithium jump start battery to carry with me in case this happens again. Makes me question the integrity of Toyota when they cheapen out the car in the areas of safety...i.e., leaving someone stranded.
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My father put my f150 into reverse he says he didn't gas it. It was 2-3 feet in between the cars and the hitch went into the bottom grill below the front license plate. Coolant is leaking from the left side between the radiator and the block. Now the trucks hitch didn't go far enough to hit the radiator, or anything else I can see. I have cleaned the coolant and am in the waiting process try to identify the location. I believe that it is oozing from the water pump ( most of the coolant is underneath it), on the other hand there is coolant also by the radiator just not as much. I have the ability to fix this just not the tools. My family is going to take it to the dealer ship I just do not want them to get finagled around.
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My 2010 Corolla S used to always lock itself after I parked my car and left it idle for a moment or so. For instance, when I walk away from my car after parking it would auto-lock the doors. Now when I leave it, the doors remained unlock and I have to lock it myself each time. How to change it back somehow? I want to set it back in-case I ever do forget to lock it manually, it could save a lot of hassles.
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