When I am driving holding the gas pedal and the rpm at about 1500-2000 rpm but when I release the gas pedal the rpm goes down maybe 500-750 rpm then back up.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 corolla s and only one of the rear seats drops down when I pull the corresponding latch in the trunk. On the side that does not work, the latch still appears to "pull" out the same amount as the latch that works, except the seat won't release and drop down.
View 1 RepliesIs there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
View 7 RepliesOn my 2010 s ,my pedal brake begin to work on low position, I have 35000km it is normal? my wife hate this car because this.
View 4 RepliesIt was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
I did a search and found nothing. When I press on the brake pedal, it seems to go half way to the floor before grabbing. The other 2010 I tested did the same thing. Is this common or is this something that I need to take to the dealer?
View 5 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
My 2010 toyota corolla LE headliner makes a clicking sound in the back. This usually happens when I go over a rough road.
View 4 RepliesTitle should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
For these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when Im changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
[URL] ......
Is this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
2009 XRS ABS brakes .... I changed all four brake pads and flushed out most of the old brake fluid. Bled all four sides. But now while I am in idle (like waiting for a light to turn) my brake pedal is spongy and is making a hissing sound. All was good before I did this job.
View 3 RepliesI bought my 2010 Corolla 5 years ago with 17,000 miles on it. Since then I've put on about another 46,000. With 63,000 miles it needs it's 4th set of rotors due to brake pulse and shudder. We live in the prairie and I'm not hard on brakes. The brakes have never felt like my 05 Corolla.
Can this be caused by too aggressive of brake pads?
I haven't been on in a while due to my laptop breaking on me well recently i purchased the V3 triton switchback from vleds as well as just red V3 triton leds. After the install i blew my flasher fuse which i replaced then when i attempted it again i must have blown something else because my corner lights no longer go on and when i turn my lights on i no longer get the sign on the cluster notifying me that they are on. I have removed the lights and the issue was i did not order ck socket adapter. So what i have done so far is checked all fuses and i have nothing burned under the driver side and under the hood. I must have looked over everything 10 times checked all fuses with a test light and i don't see anything with DRL or Corner lights labeled anywhere on the fuse panels. Is it possible i burned the module DRL module?
View 9 RepliesI am a first time Toyota car owner. I bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE this past Saturday. It has only 42,000 miles on it, and I got a pretty decent deal on it! I'm still getting used to how the car drives, but it seems to be running great. The only thing I notice sometimes is that I am coasting downhill (not using the brakes) I notice a bit of a vibration sound coming from what sounds like the back windshield. If it keeps occurring, I might take it to the dealer for them to check it out. With my luck, the issue might not even happen though with them there.
View 4 RepliesTemp control is stuck, but when it reaches over 55 degrees or so, it goes back to normal. Have a very slight clicking sound/feel when it is normal. Toyota wants 10 hours labor up front.
View 1 RepliesWell this week, everytime I was backing up, hit a pothole or sometimes when I turn either left or right or hit the brakes a clunky or sometimes metallic sound appears coming from the back the undercarriage.
First I thought may be one of the bars (TRD or the Ultraracing sway bars) were loose, we lift, checked the car with the guy who installed the bars and all of them were tight ,nothing loose, we discovered on the front is time to change the bushings of the front stabilizer bar and also the rods who run parallel to the shocks absorbers but we couldn't mimic the sound the shocks are fine.
Tonight my daughter was driving the vehicle so I have a chance to hear the clunky noise, which I think is coming directly from the inside of the drums the sounds intensified at the time of hitting the brakes but is not all the time you hit the brake when it happened.
Also I can't explained why I heard the sound when I turn left or right and still coming from the back, doesn't make sense I can't find no relation whatsoever
I just add this 2 videos..
[URL] ...
[URL] ....
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
Am I still the only one with an irritating scrunchy sound coming from the left bolster of the driver's seat back?
When the temperature is above 0 Celsius the bolster makes a scrunchy squeak every time I lean back, accelerate, or take off from a stop.
It would appear to be the supplemental air bag material rubbing against the foam or upholstery of the seat.
Toyota says this should be under warranty, but it has been too cold out lately to demonstrate to the service dept.
I know that I could fix it by removing the factory seat cover and tweaking the air bag placement somewhat, but this is not as easy as it sounds, potentially dangerous, and if it is under warranty, I'd prefer the "experts" to address the problem.
I have weird kick back when I release gas pedal. Why?
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