Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Vehicle Shaking And Misfiring Occasionally - Cylinder Damaged
Apr 16, 2014
My daughters '09 Corolla was shaking and misfiring occasionally. When she took it to the shop the mechanic had it for a couple days and after many attempts finally reproduced the issue. After several diagnostics tests they determined it to be a damaged cylinder. We had the option of
1. replacing the engine
2. retooling it
I called around to a couple other mechanics and they told me the same thing. One particular mechanic (no affiliated with Toyota) told us that he had heard this happening on both the Camry and the Corolla. Sound like a manufacturer issues if it's been seen frequently.
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Went on a trip Sunday, and i saw my engine light come on after i put gas in the car. I pulled over, re-checked the gas cap, and it was fine. Car felt fine.
When i got home, i used my OBD2 scanner, and got the error P0304 Code - Cylinder #4 Misfire. I cleared the error and drove the car some more, no issues.
Yesterday, my wife took the car and she said it was hesitating and sputtering, but the light hasn't come back. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow, the car has under 80,000k, so the warranty should kick in.
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My car was shaking badly during idle and the Engine and VSC Off lights came on simultaneously. I took it to a local garage (not dealership) and they said that there is anti-freeze leaking into a cylinder. They said the only way to clean it out/fix it is to first remove the entire engine from the car so it could be worked on. It will cost a total of $2,700. My engine has 141,000 miles on it so they said this may be risky since it is so used. They said for $3,500 they could swap it with an engine that only has 31,000 miles on it (and a 6 month guarantee.) By numbers this sounds like a no brainer (I am assuming?) but I am curious if swapping the engines would be worth it seeing as the rest of the car has still traveled 141,000 miles. I have kept it in good condition and such though. I am also curious if the engine really does need to be removed to fix this sort of problem or it it could be done cheaper.
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I had some issues over the past couple of days with my 2009 Corolla EPS. It would occasionally go off, after all the indicator lights would flash momentarily. This only happens at low speeds, under 10 mph, and as soon as I got it up to speed the power steering would come back on. (note just about 140,000 miles)
I took my car into the dealer and he told me my battery needed to be replaced, its the original, and my rear hub and bearing assembly is corroded and there is electrical damage back there.
Did my first repair this summer, the alternator and water pump. But I didn't think the rear hub and bearing would have electrical connections or sensors effecting the EPS. I'm sure there is rust, but would that cause EPS issues? Could there be electrical damage? I also tested my battery yesterday and got 12.5 - 12.6 V with if off and 13.6 -13.7 on, but my battery is old.
I am going to pick it up from the dealer and just try changing the battery first. The total repair they suggested would cost $1875.00, which is crazy to me? Could there be a bigger issue though, and could the EPS just cut out on me while I'm on the highway or something?
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I was looking to lower my 2012 Corolla after seeing torres 16 running 18x10 all around on his car. I fell in love with his Corolla and have been craving to do something similar. Now here's the flip side. I am absolutely clueless about the in-and-outs of stance work or being "slammed". I was thinking running 18x10 all around is a bit too much and was looking to run 18x9.5 Grids - if I could find them new. I'd like to sit "flush." What offset would be recommended? From what I saw on wheeldude, they only come in +20 or +38. Would this be possible on BC coilovers? I'd like to achieve a look similar to Jzen 16 or torres 16. Would I be better off running an air suspension setup? The downfall is they get ridiculously costly.
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Occasionally, when I play songs, I hear my speakers kind of buzzing, where they sound like they are going bad.
Its super annoying, but I can't think how to replicate it. Any way to show them or what should I do?
My warranty would cover this, right?
Also, if I have installed footwell LEDs, might they argue about that effecting my warranty or anything?
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While driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
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So following my everlasting bad luck with car problems...I've been noticing a very rough idle in my 2010 Corolla. It has 84k miles. It's only occasionally, not even every time that I'm idling. When I am stopped at a red light though, it'll start to shake for a few seconds, and then it kind of sounds like something "cleared" through something and then it idles fine. This will happen a few times until I start to accelerate again. It does not occur when I'm in neutral, and isn't as strong when I'm in park but it is kind of still there.
I've also been noticing a high pitched whine when I am accelerating at a constant speed. It's there when I am speeding up, then it gets worse as I stay at one speed. It does also make a bit of a "bum bumbum" sound (best way I can put it.) I went to an auto shop and they drove it around for a few minutes and said I need two new tires on the front. The tires, appearance wise, are fine though and they agreed to that. I took it to Discount Tire for a second opinion, they said the tires looked fine and wouldn't sell me new ones. They did say that from what I described it sounds like bad wheel bearings. Took it in, filled them up with air and balanced them. The sounds are still there.
After looking at videos, my car doesn't sound the same as ones with bad wheel bearings. It does not make any noise when turning. I would notice, since I JUST had both the front CV axles replaced. I'm not sure if maybe both of these are related at all. I still need to bring my Corolla in to have some sort of cover replaced that is leaking oil (forget what it's called) that I have to pay a $100 deductible on at my Toyota dealership. I'm not very car savvy and hate going into an auto shop, especially as a girl, not knowing what I need exactly.
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I have an '09. Experience a shakiness/shaking when the car slows down to a stop? Like, you slow down to a stop, then the car starts to shake for a few seconds.
I feel like it doesn't happen to me in neutral, which makes me think it is the transmission. Sometimes I get a rough/shaky start as well....
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Recently, my 09 corolla S starts shaking during slow moving . As I accelerate more, it start vibrating at high frequency. And I can hear the sound "kin kin kni.." I checked the tires, they all look fine. It has 60k miles on.
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I have a 2009 Corolla LE. I've had these issues since buying the car last year. Issue #1 : when initially accelerating from a stop through 1st and 2nd gears, there's a slight vibration felt through the steering wheel and vehicle. If it's just a gentle acceleration it typically doesn't aggravate the issue as much as a quicker acceleration. Issue #2 : This car is very sensitive to varying types of road conditions. One patch of road can seem smooth as silk. Then another patch will feel rough and bumpy. The road appears to have no bumps or imperfections. I just put brand new tires on the other day, and its still doing this. And I feel all of the road imperfections the most through the steering wheel. I'll briefly take my hands off the steering wheel to see if I feel it in the cabin, and its not as bad as it is through the steering wheel.
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I installed an aftermarket cruise (Rostra) in my manual 2007 Corolla. Other than cutting the hole for the stalk the only real difficulty was getting my fat hands up under the dash to install the clutch disconnect switch. It certainly didn't involve any wire cutting or messing around with the ECM.
It's a long story, but through a sequence of events I have to opportunity to buy a 2010 base Corolla 5 speed at a pretty good deal. It also doesn't have a cruise control. I went tot eh Rostra website just to make sure cruise units are available and I looked at the installation instructions. Unless I read the wrong sheet, their instructions make it seem like installing cruise on a 2010 involves messing with the ECM wiring harness, moving connectors and a bunch of scary stuff like that.
It seems strange to me that the older car would be "plug and play" but a newer one would need changes to the main wiring harnesses. I'm not talking about a steering wheel mounted system where the clock spring has to be replaced, just a basic cruise.
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My car is now 24/7 with this error which is Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction an there seems to be no way of solving it, symptoms are:
*Speedometer not working, needle always in 0
*Power steering not working
*Car wont past 3rd gear
*Check engine light and power steering light on
I checked all 4 speed sensors and the wiring looks good and they look good. Also if i hit a bump, issue goes away for a couple of minutes, until i hit another, etc, so looks like a wire or short circuit, cant tell. Is there a speed sensor on the transmission as well? where is located?
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I want to disable that beep beep sound when you lock or unlock the vehicle with the remote. Does this can be disable?
On my previous Nissan Altima, you can toggle this feature by pressing the lock+unlock simultaneously. I tried that on the Corolla, it does not work.
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2009 corolla 1.8l 155,000 miles. Replaced iridium spark plugs at 100,000
I got a CEL few weeks ago, P0301 Toyota - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Car has been running bad for about 2 weeks now, excise noise on the highway, especially up hills.
Yesterday, I took a look, replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1, same results. Checked the coils using one of those flashing tools, all 4 flashed quickly, with no breaks in flashing. put it all back together, cleared the code, went home.
Took it out for a drive today, and it started running way worse. Checked the CEL, and now I have both P0301 and P0303 Misfire on cylinder 1 and 3. Barely made it home, ran VERY VERY bad.
Got home, and made a video of it. It just kept dying. Check it out here. [URL] .....
Also, when it does run, it almost sounds like I can hear excess air, its hard to hear in video, but doesn't sound right. Maybe air leak? How do I check?
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I have a 2009 Corolla S 1.8 with a manual transmission and 30,000 miles. About a month ago the check engine light came on throwing a PO302 code (cylinder 2 misfire detected). I reset the check engine light and drove it about a week before the check engine light reappeared again with the PO302 code. I swapped the spark plugs on cylinders 2 and 3 and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the coils on cylinders 2 and 4, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the fuel injectors on cylinders 2 and 3, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared.
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I used fuel injector cleaner in two different gas tanks; the car started shaking and the check engine light came on. The mechanic changed a sensor but the car was doing the same; I was told that it will take 4 full gas tanks to clean the gas lines. I went to autozone and they told me that the car had a misfire on cylinder 5 and multiple misfire as well. I do not trust the mechanic any more since I had to take the car back to them several times and still is not fixed. They also did a full tune up and the check engine light still on and flashes when I am going about 55 mph.
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My Prius started shaking pretty bad when the ICE is running. This morning I got the codes read and it came as Cylinder #1 misfire. I figured the coil pack is going bad (as is known to happen) so I swapped #1 and #2. The misfiring actually got better for about 30 minutes, but it finally happened and the CEL flashed again.
So I took it to get the code read but he said the only code is still #1 misfire. Perhaps the ignition coil is OK then? I bought a new spark plug, maybe the plug has gone bad. The plugs only have 45k miles on them. I'll swap it out and see what happens. What I should do to diagnose the issue? It seems to be slowly getting better...this afternoon it was much better than this morning but still shaking sporadically.
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The issue with 99 Corolla CE with 147,000 miles....
I have a misfiring P0303 Code - Cylinder #3 Misfire. Here is what has been done in an effort to remedy the misfire. A major tune up, new spark plugs, new fuel injectors, new spark plug wiring, new coil packs, The car runs ok once warmed up but in the morning the engine vibrates until warm and also shivers a little while the car is stopped at a stop light. I have dropped it off at the mechanics a couple of times now to no avail. Once the code is reset it will not display the CEL for a couple of days but the symptoms still remains. The CEL comes back on within 2-3 days with the same code. Really frustrating! Well, at least this time CEL in not flashing like before it comes on and stays on.
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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So I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
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