I checked my pads today and noticed that the drivers pad is worn about 50% more than the passenger in the front. What could be the problem??
View 5 RepliesI noticed this yesterday when swapping out my wheels. What could be the causes?
Pass side
Drivers side
2000 Ranger, see my sig.
Just had to swap out the pads on my truck yesterday. The pedal was pretty mushy and I was getting shaking in the steering wheel when the brakes got warm. Shaking wasn't all the time, only after they had been used quite a bit - say after city use and the brakes had to be applied suddenly. So I popped off the tires and swapped out the pads and replaced the brake fluid - flushed it.
On the driver side front, the pads barely had any real wear and the anti-rattle clip was all messed up. It was installed properly, but it looked like the pads had smashed into it. The rotor appeared to be warped, or at least out of round - but just barely. You could see it wobble slightly in one spot if you spun the hub with the caliper removed. The caliper itself was sticking slightly.
I didn't see any evidence of damage, the brakes flushed just fine although the fluid was incredibly dirty (because I haven't done it in a long while). On the passenger side front, the pads were worn down to the level I would have expected given the mileage. The wear was even.
My question ultimately is this - is the out of round hub the culprit here? Might there be something else going on like a caliper problem? Ultimately I plan on having the rotors surfaced - one of them certainly needs it and with new pads I might as well do it anyway.
I have 3 new tires and 1 with wave or cupping wear. It is a new tire not even a year used. I went in to get my alignment fixed because I was told the cupping is due to car being out of alignment. They told me I have to replace the tire with the cupping wear on it before they do the alignment. Is this true? or can i keep the tire and not have to shell out more money for a tire that is not even a year old. that being said, I am now doing more research and realizing that cupping is actually due to problems with the shocks. not alignment.
It's a 2009 toyota matrix xrs....
I purchased the 2010 corolla back in October of 2010 and never noticed until almost 2 years later that all of my tires were inflated to 62 PSI.
I went to the dealer and they didn't know anything, I myself didn't put any air into it nor did my brother who drives the car too. However he has always complained that the ride was stiff.
Iam wondering if it cause my engine to wear out faster since the tires were so stiff and it bumps when going over pot whole. I could be 100% certain I drove it off the lot with 62 PSIs.....
I have a 2009 toyota matrix that as over 140,00 miles when I drive down the road the front passenger side bounces up and down. There is no difference in speed from 25 all the way up to 60 plus.
View 2 RepliesBasically, whenever I brake, my front brakes squeal. But they only do this if I use about 25% to 33% force. If I press on the pedal harder, the squealing goes away and the same if I reduce the force.
I replaced my pads with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads in March 2015. The noise started a month or 2 after replacing my pads, and I've only put about 12k miles on them. I had my car in a couple weeks ago for an oil change, and the inspection showed that the pads still had plenty of life on them. I brought it up to the service advisor, and he suggested that my rotors might be warped and need to be machined. The problem with that is I feel absolutely no vibration in my brake pedal that would indicate warpage.
So the only other thing I can think of is the shims might be causing the noise. I was going to get some grease and apply that and see if it works. Also, when I was replacing the pads I bled out a little more brake fluid than I intended. But it hasn't seemed to affect my braking ability so I ruled that out.
Any guesses for what might cause this? Like I said, I have plenty of material left on the pads and I can stop without problems, so it's not a safety issue, just a tad annoying.
So my passenger front door is vibrating inside somewhere ... tho' it could be the door panel itself possibly !?
I've removed the door panel hoping to find something loose inside that is causing this buzzing. All the door panel's locating pins are intact and secure the panel as they should. In other words... The door panel secures as it should and nothing looks broken at it's attachment points.
The noise does not occur on a smooth road surface...and only occurs on rougher road. So I realize the vibration is being transmitted by road vibrations.
I can hear/feel a lite jolt from the tire's contact with the road's surface irregularities and if the road surface remains consistently rough ... that jolt turns into a buzzing drone type noise. Well ... at least until I hit a smooth road surface again. Then the buzzing subsides. No, it is not an electrical buzz/noise.
Sounds more like plastic vibrating against the door's inner surface... But I don't see a scuff mark or anything giving me a clue as to what it could be !?
I've thought of removing the door panel...then take a test drive without it installed. Just to be sure it is not the the window glass support/channels... door lock/lever mech. rod or loose wiring. But haven't done that as of yet. With the door panel removed... I don't see anything that looks loose or could be causing this rattle/buzzing noise ?
It's difficult to say exactly where this noise is transmitted from... but if I were to guess... I have to think it's possibly near center... around the arm rest area. I see behind that is only some wires coming from the window control unit. But I don't see how those could be culprit of this buzzing noise ?
My '10 is still under the 36K warranty...
97 4.0 ext. As the title says the right front pads wear more than the drivers side. Have replaced calipers pads and rotors during recent overhaul. Noticed increased brake dust on wheel on rf front. Could the metering valve under master cyl be the culprit. Abs and brake lights work as normal.
View 4 Replies2005 I4 SE Camry USA built. Got a squeak from the rears the other day and pulled the tires to check. Inside pads (ones against the caliper cylinder) on both rear wheels were at the metal but the outside pads were still not down to the little stripe down the middle of the pads, let alone the wear indicator clip. I pulled slide pins and there were not stuck. The calipers retracted very easily, so not gunked up or dragging. I ordered a new hardware kit with the new dust boots and rubber slide pin parts. I am using good Permatex disc brake grease. I am going to have to have the rotors turned, but aside from replacing the rubber parts the only other thing I can think of is slide pin replacement.
View 2 RepliesI just thought I'd mention this observed wear of brake pads...I just replaced all 4 up front after about 128k miles...
@ 114k miles it was observed that 1 of the 2 pads of each front wheel had worn significantly more than the other (the inner more than the outer pad IIRC)....my expert mechanic rotated the two and I got another 14k miles out of them...I could have gotten a LOT more had they been rotated @ 50-80k miles.
I don't know if this is extraordinary, or more typical than I'd have thought...or a function of (failing?) calipers, or just how these (MY) calipers work, or just my driving habits (though I've owned the car for only 30k of the 128k miles on the odometer)....but....
In my case the new pads will get a 50k mile inspection and possible rotation if there is uneven wear between outer and inner pads....
I'd recommend that pads be inspected for (uneven) wear at one of the scheduled tire rotations....rotating the pads isn't much of a job, but it might be something for you to consider to get the most miles from the pads (that and better braking too perhaps).
Any 1 have their tire that have uneven tire wear? Mines is Dunlop and my front right tire has uneven wear on the outer thread. All other tire don't have uneven wear. I'm getting new tire for all 4 rims and check my alignment. My gs is a f sport rwd.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2014 Supercab Ecoboost F150, which has 37k KM on it (23k miles). I work at sea for 4 weeks on / 4 weeks off so the truck sits a fair bit. I had it in the dealer for scheduled servicing and they noticed the inside pads on both front brakes were wearing significantly more than the outside (4mm vs 7mm). The lube guy at the time had suggested sticking calipers and that they'd be warranty.
A few days later I brought the truck back in to have the brakes looked at and an unrelated warranty item done. They looked and said the calipers aren't sticking and the rotors are grooved and rusted, particularly the inside surface. They wanted to put new pads on and turn the rotors for 400 bucks.
I had a hard time believing it wasn't the calipers, and I was having a hard time getting a good explanation from the service writer of what was going on. So I took the truck back and pulled the pass side tire off in the driveway to take a good look.
As far as I can tell, the calipers are free. The slide pins are nicely lubed and are free, and the pads are free to move in the anti-rattle clips. I squeezed the piston back with a set of C clamps and it seemed to be good. Also, the pads are wearing more or less evenly (not tapered or anything), just the inside is worn significantly more than the outside.
So, rotors wearing out in 23k miles? They aren't really warped, just heavily grooved. My theory at this point is that the weeks the truck spends sitting allows too much corrosion to build up on the rotor, which is getting caught up and wearing down the pads and rotor. Maybe the outside of the rotor isn't nearly as bad because it gets hosed down and washed more frequently?
Inside rotor surface
Outside rotor surface
Inside pad surface.
I still have 7 months of bumper to bumper warranty. Ford says the only cover brakes if the damage is caused by a caliper, so I think I'm out of luck on that front.
I've noticed since I bought my car that when I drive the passenger side window tends to creep down and I have to hit the switch to bring it back up. It doesn't come down a lot but enough to hear the wind whistle through it. I'm not sure if this is motor or regulator issue or what.
View 9 RepliesMy rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
I am headed to the dealer under warranty but still want to know. I have at least one oil leak and maybe several on my 2010 s. Passenger side rear of engine. Maybe minor seep at the chain tensioner but I think I have several below that. What are the two sensors below the tensioner? Are there leak issues on the engine? Car has 50K and is under certified warranty.
View 3 RepliesI have a corolla 2009 and everything has been running great except that we found a falling part under the car yesterday. I don't know where the part came from or if it's even part of the car. Tell me if it's a major problem or something minor or a non-issue.
This was found under the passenger side under the car pretty much where the middle of the door is. [URL] …..
So today I was driving around and suddenly my VSC ABS and Brake light came on. I thought it was because I didn't engage my e brake so I stopped pulled it up and put it down. It was still there but disappeared after a while
Then later it came back up. This time I went to slow down and pull aside. While slowing down my car suddenly had a grinding/jerking noise and motion.
Now my passenger HID doesn't work. Also when I turn off car it kind of shudders/shakes.
Could it be a voltage issue?My brakes are kind of going bad. I switched the builds around by putting the driver bulb into the passenger bulb and it works. So is that a bulb issue or is it related to the VSC?
I currently own a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with around 30,000 miles. Recently, I noticed a bit of rattling from the passenger's head rest. At first, there was rattling when the head rest was up, but went away when I pushed it back down. Now, the rattling appeared again even with the headrest all the way down. I attempted to switch the actual head rest from the driver seat to the passenger seat, but the same problem is there. I'm guessing it's the actual seat which is holding the rods to the head rest? I also tapped both seats and the noise from inside the passenger seat sounded a lot loose.
View 3 RepliesSo I was on my way home i was 2 miles away from my house and my abs light and e-brake light randomly go on. I got home and turned car off and back on and it was still there.
View 14 RepliesOur brake reservoir cap is rubber, and just pops on. There's a little top hat on top of that that plugs the tiny little breather in the actual cap. I lost mind down in the depths of the engine bay.
View 2 Replies