Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Under Acceleration And Sudden Braking Pop Is Coming From Passenger Fender Area
Mar 2, 2015
I just recently bought 2012 CorollaS. Great car inside and out with about 20k miles. I've noticed under acceleration and sudden braking a pop is coming from the passenger fender area. I've replaced the motor mount on that side thinking that might have been the issue, but it's still there. What are the torque specs for the motor mount. Maybe it's simply not torqued correctly.
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Car wont even crank, no power to any accessories.
Car is making a clicking noise from the engine fuse book too as well.
Low engine oil pressure light also comes on too.
Checked the oil which is fine.
Checked fuses 2 weeks ago and they were fine.
Need a working car.
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...... 2010 Corolla LE 1.8L ...... View the video I uploaded ....... The noise is seems to be getting worse. My first thought is the bearings in the water pump may have failed. I'm also thinking that there isn't adequate lubrication near the gear assembly or the belt. Could there be a problem with the tension in the belt?
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2010 Matrix XR, car drives great except while driving off of parking lot going slow over bumps I hear a bit of rattling noise coming what seems like the driver side dash area... it almost feels like its coming perhaps from the steering wheel but the steering wheel feels very tight with no play at all.. Other than that it's all good can not hear anything wrong driving on a smooth road or a highway...
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So, after washing my car, I noticed something orange/brown between my rear bumper and rear fender... it's rust. So, what should I do? I know it will only spread but since it's on the rear quaterpanel, it's not easily replaceable unless I cut the metal or sand it down and repaint it. Should I go to the dealer and see what they say?
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So today I'm out running errands. Its hot and the ac is on. I notice water is coming out from underneath the dashboard on the passenger side. I pull the floor mat and water is everywhere. Soaked!! Ok so the ac water that's supposed to drip outside and underneath the car is now dripping inside the car. I pull off all the plastic crap, glove box to see if I can tell where its coming from. Not seeing it. Also some crap must have gotten wet because my check engine light is on along with a flashing vsr off light.
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89 v6 4Runner. When I turn the key forward you hear a "click" coming from the passenger side fender area. After a few turns the engine will turn over and away you go. Yesterday for the first time after a few clicks I lost all power to my instrument panel, no dash lights no gauges working and no click, nothing. Stereo, cigarette lighter still had power, even reset my dash clock so it lost all connections as well. Every few turns I would get lights back and turn the key to start and click and dead again. Eventually I bump started the engine, drove home and here I sit.
Relay box by the front fender... this is where the click is coming from, looked at a few posts from yoda tech and one person suggested cutting the no 4 line for the ignition system off the relay box and have it go directly to the pos post for the battery. This will be a closed circuit from the battery post direct to the starter relay yes?
Relay box is probably just getting old and wires are beat up. My electrical is not the best for sure. Can I just clean up the wires going to the relay box(es)?
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ok so i noticed recently that there was this humming noise coming the rear right passenger side everytime i accelerated up to 30mph. the noise would get louder the faster i go. i got it checked by a shop and they told me that it had something to do with my wheel bearing. my car is lowered on coil covers and I have negative camber on my wheels. Why its making this humming noise or if its because i never got my alignments. I am thinking of throwing my stock suspension back in and letting the dealership deal with it since my car is still under warranty.
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Having problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
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I recently bought a 09 corolla le and when the car is at 55-70 mph and probably other times too, a clicking sound starts. It sounds like a relay picking up and dropping out. So at this speed if I lift my foot it stops or decreases in frequency. When I press accelerator it increases in frequency.
It sounds like it is coming from passenger kick panel or behind glove box. I looked behind kick panel and did not see any relays. I could've over looked it.
There's a lot going on behind the glove box but didn't really see many if any relays. One thing that got my attention was a white cube with what may be a red led at the top of the dash behind the glove box. I also have not taken the time to drive and investigate.
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Whenever i brake i can hear a loud squeal, does that mean its time to change my brakes? Its crazy because i have a 2011 corolla but already have 27,000 miles on it. The squeal is louder when it rains....
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I have an '09. Experience a shakiness/shaking when the car slows down to a stop? Like, you slow down to a stop, then the car starts to shake for a few seconds.
I feel like it doesn't happen to me in neutral, which makes me think it is the transmission. Sometimes I get a rough/shaky start as well....
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Ive been using synthetic 5w-20 for about 7k miles on my 09 corolla s, has hit 100k. Was looking under the engine and small amount of oil on the drain plug. I had the drain plug replaced about 15k miles ago and not sure if thats where its actually leaking from.
Should I switch to high mileage oil? Ive used 5w-30 high mileage awhile ago to go with the good ol oil consumption with this year engine and didnt like the dip in mpg's and felt like the car couldnt run as well as it should. I switched to synthetic to take better care of the engine after using high mileage for about 6k miles.
Question 1 - Should I switch back to high mileage?
Questions 2 - Should I use Lucas oil leak product? (I use the gas cleaner)
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Dashboard rattle/squeak noises in the 2013 TOYOTA COROLLA ZRE182R ASCENT SPORT S-CVT. I purchased this car in Feb 2013, brand new.
A rattle began to develop around the dashboard area. At first, it sounded like a rattle on the left side of the dash near the aircon vent. It took two visits to the dealership service center to repair the rattle.
Within a week of the second visit, the rattle came back - this time in two places, and much worse. The second rattle noise appears to be coming from behind the wheel. Hard to describe the sound, it's more like a high pitched squeaking rather than a dull rattle.
To date I have had wires/brackets either replaced and/or tightened, and also foam applied in numerous places. Still, the rattle persists.
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I just bought a 09 Corolla S a month ago. In the last few days I've been hearing a popping/knocking noise while I'm driving. It sounds like it is coming from one of the wheels but which one. It usually happens once I decelerate or driving at low speeds. If I brake the noise will stop. The rhythm of the noise doesn't seem to be consistent with speed I'm driving. It happens more often on bumpy roads but it still happens on smooth roads. I'm wondering what are the possible problems that are could cause this?
I don't know if this would relate to the sounds I mentioned but when I bought this car it had brake problems. It would grind pretty loud. The dealership ended up replacing new rear drums. So when I drove it home everything sounded good for about a week. The grinding noise came back and after I sprayed some brake cleaner it went away for a few days. I'm assuming thats what the dealership did to hide the noise. I went ahead and changed the front pads and that worked for a week or so...but the grinding noise is back. I was about to change my rotors this weekend when the popping/knocking sound I mentioned above started happening.
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I get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
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I just got my bc extreme drop kit installed, after taking out struts i imagined my corolla would be lighter and faster cuz the struts weigh way more than the coilovers, but when i drove it for first time after install, i noticed the acceleration is weaker and not as responsive, why this is? is it supposed to be like that, whats happening?
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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I currently own a Toyota Corolla VVTI 1.8 2009 GLI. I have been racing this car here at our auto drome for over a year. Last race it starting giving me real bad issues with shifting on the track. I can be a 5,900 RPM and shift to a higher gear and the car will choke and drown and it takes forever to recognize I'm accelerating. I know this is because of the computer and the electronic accelerator it comes with ( I can't remember it's name in English). My gas pedal is Denso and I understand there is an adaption that can be done to the cable to trick the computer.
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Just bought a XLE (currently have had the car for 2 weeks and a total of 275miles) and am experiencing a very strange rattle coming from the engine compartment when accelerating very lightly and engine being fully warm (being ran for atleast 15min). The rattle is coming during 2000-2300rpm. Below and above that range, the problem does not occur. The rattling noise sounds as if some metal is grinding on one another. I understand that the Dual VVT-i is notoriously known for it's noise (ticking/tapping of valves, naturally being a 4cyl, and a small amount of "roar" when applying large amount of throttle) but I think this problem I am exhibiting is by far, not normal.
Symptoms/Conditions:
1. Car must be hot/warm (must be driven for atleast 15 minutes)
2. Must be in a drive or reverse direction. Problem does not occur in park or neutral.
3. You have to be acclerating lightly, the engine rattle occurs from 2000rpm - 2300rpm. It's not a tapping or ticking sound but rather a "buzzing" metal to metal grinding.
4. Sounds like the sound is coming from the intake or exhaust systems and the rpm's is causing a natural vibration frequency that is causing a metal part to vibrate (or resonate). Could explain
5. The car doesn't seem to be power limited or anything abnormal. Drives just fine - just a rattling sound that I hate to believe is normal!
I'm under assumption that this is an engineering design flaw! I would encourage you as Toyota Corolla 2009 owners (1.8L, 4spd autos, manuals) to see if you can replicate this issue. Warm your car up, turn off heat/ac & radio (so you can clearly hear the engine), put it in drive, slowly excelerate, and listen as your rpm's increase (noise will only occur at 2000-2300rpm).
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I've noticed that in the past week or so, whenever I'm stuck in traffic for a few minutes, the engine temp will slowly rise. it gets really bad if traffic is crawling; the temp has reached that 2nd highest line before the red area.
Whenever I get going again and hit the gas, the temp drops. What it is?
Car is currently at 86k miles. I don't believe the water pump has been replaced yet.
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