Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Transmission Does Not Engage In Reverse On Chilly Mornings
Aug 25, 2015
I have 2009 corolla with about 125, 000 on it. A few times over the past couple of weeks on chilly mornings (in the 50's) the transmission did not engage in reverse right away. Usually with the fast idle you can feel it kick in but on these days it takes a few seconds before that happens. I have had the car for two years and have done nothing about transmission service. A dealer told me it was lifetime fluid and there is no dip stick to check it. Is this a common problem? Is this a sign the trans is on the way out? Should I sell the car now before it gets worse?
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I've run into a very strange whining noise in the mornings on my 2010 Corolla S.
I've done some diagnosis and the issue only occurs when it gets chilly out (below about 50 degrees). When you go out to the car in the AM with things dead cold and turn the key into the run position before you start it the noise starts up right under the dash on what sounds like the passenger side. I've tried the fan on and off and it doesn't seem to affect it. It does seem to be lasting longer and it really sounds like a bad bearing in a small motor. As the car warms up the noise disappears and doesn't reappear unless it cools down all the way, which usually means it has to sit overnight.
It doesn't seem to affect how the car runs so I'm guessing it's not a primary system, likely something with climate control or AC?
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Have a click when the clutch engages? Manual transmission.
Everytime is release the clutch, I hear the clutch click when it grabs. It's not the pedal that clicks. It's inside the transmission.
It runs fine, and it's been doing it right off the lot. It's not that loud to actually bother me, I'm just wondering if its normal.
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I think this is just poor dealer service, but I need a sanity check.
I have 93k miles on my Corolla. My clutch creaks like an old school bus when I engage and disengage. It's done this pretty much all along and I think I had another dealer successfully lube the linkage to quiet it down -- it was miles and years ago so I may be misremembering that.
My current dealer says all they can do for it now is REPLACE THE WHOLE FREAKING CLUTCH assembly to the tune of $1,300. Clearly, I'm not doing this. As long as it works, I ain't replacin' the clutch, but, REALLY?
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I just bought a 2005 passat wagon 4motion 1.8t to haul the dogs and future kid around in. Car has extremely low miles (23k) and is pretty much in perfect condition. Love everything about it, except...
It seems to have a bit of trouble starting on chilly mornings (not cold yet, maybe 60f?). It will start, but it fires up and then seems to get choked up to the point of almost dying sometimes, runs a little rough for a minute or so with a throaty exhaust sound and then it perks up and runs fine. I've noticed it tends to be running at a slightly higher RPM when it's running poorly in those first few minutes, and then it drops to normal.
When we bought the car, I quickly realized the temp gauge wasn't working. It turned out to be the temp sensor (seems to be a common problem) and I hoped it would solve the rough start, but it did not.
What could be causing this? We're starting to approach fall/winter, and if it's doing this now I can only imagine what it's going to do in November. I'd like to get this sorted as soon as possible, even though it's not a show stopper right this minute.
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Is this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
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2004 3 series BMW... When the temperature drops below around 40F, my daughter's car does not want to move in forward or reverse for the first few minutes. I watched her rev it up to 5000 RPM to get it to move the other morning. I explained how bad that is for the engine and asked her to be patient and let the car idle for a few minutes to warm up the transmission before starting out.
Two or three blocks down the street, after it has warmed a bit, the transmission engages briskly at the touch of the throttle and shifts normally with no unusual slippage.
I first noticed this after the last transmission fluid change. I suspected the wrong fluid had been put in it, and took it back to the BMW specialty shop that changed the fluid. The shop assured me that it contains the correct fluid and tried to tell me that there is nothing wrong with the transmission because the transmission computer is not storing any codes, and it worked perfectly when they drove it. Obviously 5000 RPM to move on a cold morning is not right.
Should I change the fluid again and see if it workss? I am hesitant because that full synthetic transmission fluid is expensive. Could a temperature sensor that says it is warm when the transmission is actually cold cause this problem?
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Just bought a used 09 Corolla LE with 89K miles on it. I noticed a subtle rough idle when I come to a stop light and especially noticeable when in reverse. Here are the things I've tried so far:
- TB and fuel system cleaned at Instant Valvoline
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with a MAF sensor cleaner
- Replaced the spark plugs with OEM plugs
- Replaced air filter
- New water pump
- Bled the coolant system
I also took it to the dealership and had them checked the PCV and the timing chain tensioner replaced. And of course their response was they couldn't replicate the problem. They also said if there's anything wrong with the O2 sensors, the IAC or the TB system, it will throw an error code. So they basically charged me about $100 to tell me there's nothing they could do and just put up with it until the check engine light come on.
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So I have a 2010 corolla s with 30k miles. I replaced my rotors and pads about 2 weeks ago to get rid of this problem. The problem was gone for a week and now it's back. I get tons of squealing and screeching when I brake in reverse.
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I bought a DVD player for my 2010 corolla,everything is ok the only problem is I can't see reverse image automatically when I reverse my car.
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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I have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
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Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
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Car - 2011 Corolla S - Auto Transmission
My transmission seems to slip when it is shifting from 3rd into 4th. The second that it shifts into 3rd gear the rpm drops and shifts into 4th (This is when i have light to medium pressure on the pedal). If i push the pedal down 3/4 of the way once the transmission shifts into third then the rpm rise for at least 4-5 seconds (which seems more normal). In addition the shifts are a bit rough when the transmission is shifting up or down.I am looking for some insight before having a dealership jerk me around.
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My transmission blew out at 64000 kms.
At first I thought it was my calipers - on my breaks that were frozen. Very laggy when I was driving there one day - took the car into car wash sprayed the breaks with hot water. Then Air Dried the with compressed air from compressor.
Next day while driving to work - the car got really sluggish again and this time there was a funny sweet smell coming through my vents.
Stopped car - called tow truck to take me to break shop - When tow truck arrives - He lifts my car up and there is a dark red fluid under transmission.
Called the right place because they also do transmission work.
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I just bought a 2013 Barcelona Red Corolla S in Manual transmission. Already, I've noticed how rough the transmission is when I shift. But it's only roughy when I first step on the clutch. But if I keep the clutch pedal down, all the gears shift smoothly, until I release the clutch and press it down again, then the first shift is really rough. Especially REVERSE, when I shift into reverse, it's so rough that it shakes the car. There's no grind, just very rough. It sounds like someone cocked a shotgun. Everything is smooth when driving tho, only happens at full stop.
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we bought a Toyota Levin 2013 in December New Zealand. We loved the car and for the first three months it went well. Then the transmission? started playing up. First thing on a clear crisp cold morning ( or that seems to be one trigger) we would move off from stationary and it would start to accelerate and then it loses power and almost comes to a stop ( approx 30 secs) then it would engage and move off. This has happened 5-7 times and is dangerous. It will also do this when hot and going up a hill. Toyota is trying to say this is a characteristic and there is nothing wrong. To me it is dangerous.. I haven't noticed the engine light go on.
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I want to know if its possible to swap in the 5 speed automatic transmission from the corolla xrs to the 1.8 trying to get that extra gear and sequential shift mode , or how it could be done a 4speed to 5 speed manual swap?
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On older cars I've owned, this has never happened. But ever since day 1, my car has been jolting everytime I shift from P to R. (Yes I'm backing out). Is this normal? If not, what should I do?
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed auto
Been having a harsh 1-2 upshift issue lately. Had my car into a transmission shop as the dealer keeps saying nothing is wrong and the shop told me they got a p1603 code. Is this a problem and what should I do?
The mechanics writing was bad so I am unsure if it is p1603 or p1e03. I have tried looking up the code and it is a variety of things. One says engine stall history? All I remember doing recently is disconnecting the battery to try and reset the transmission computer and after the first start the car stalled then it started fine.
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I have a 2010 toyota corolla s. I've noticed that during idle (in drive, braked) the RPM can sometimes run from 800 to 1,000. meaning, it is constantly changing while the car isn't moving. is that normal? Also, I've noticed that my rpm also jumps whenever i turn on the air conditioning. is that normal as well?
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