Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Tire Wear - Cupping Due To Car Being Out Of Alignment
Feb 25, 2016
I have 3 new tires and 1 with wave or cupping wear. It is a new tire not even a year used. I went in to get my alignment fixed because I was told the cupping is due to car being out of alignment. They told me I have to replace the tire with the cupping wear on it before they do the alignment. Is this true? or can i keep the tire and not have to shell out more money for a tire that is not even a year old. that being said, I am now doing more research and realizing that cupping is actually due to problems with the shocks. not alignment.
It's a 2009 toyota matrix xrs....
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I purchased the 2010 corolla back in October of 2010 and never noticed until almost 2 years later that all of my tires were inflated to 62 PSI.
I went to the dealer and they didn't know anything, I myself didn't put any air into it nor did my brother who drives the car too. However he has always complained that the ride was stiff.
Iam wondering if it cause my engine to wear out faster since the tires were so stiff and it bumps when going over pot whole. I could be 100% certain I drove it off the lot with 62 PSIs.....
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I checked my pads today and noticed that the drivers pad is worn about 50% more than the passenger in the front. What could be the problem??
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My wife is having issues with her Corolla. Her car has about 50k miles and we got new tires and at the same time an alignment. After the alignment her car has been having the steering issue a lot of others have been having. It steers itself/drifts left and right without moving the wheel. We brought it into the dealership and they say they performed the TSB however the issue is still there.
When we spoke with the service department on the phone earlier that day they did not have the power steering computer in stock and it would be a couple days. We dropped it off and the same day they said they were able to replace the computer. Not sure if I trust they actually did the job since the computer was supposed to be out of stock and the car is out of warranty but they did not charge for anything. Also, we don't notice any improvement. Is there a way I could tell if the computer was replaced? I'm hoping it has a date on it, but I don't know where the computer is, just that the dash needs to be taken apart.
Does this TSB always work, or have others still had steering issues even after replacing the computer? Since this all started after the alignment it seems to me that if we put the alignment back the problem would go away. Is there an alignment setup that would solve this issue?
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I've had some noise while doing slow turns for the past 9 months or so, seemingly coming from the rear of the car. It's sort of a rrrrr ----rrrrrr -rrrrr noise, but it has a slight buzz to it too, like something is vibrating. It's hard to say which side it is coming from. It only occurs when turning to the right. But recently it sometimes occurs when going straight, but slow, like when approaching a stop light. Braking seems to have no effect. The other symptom is the left rear tire has very definite cupping. There are easy to see flat spots on the surface of the tire. The tire isn't perfectly round in other words, but more like an alternating sequence of flat spots. The other 3 tires don't have this cupping, they show a normal wear pattern.
I jacked up the rear of the car and tested each tire to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled, pushed, twisted. I could detect no play at all in either tire. I spun the tires by hand, and there was no unusual noise. They both just spun quietly, freely, with no apparent wobble or anything unusual. The service manual says the rear wheel bearing is bad if there is 0.2 mm of axial play. I doubt I could have detected 0.2 mm of play the way I did it, just pulling on the tire.
The only other thing I noticed is that the (rear) toe-in adjustment is different on the left than on the left. By this I mean the eccentric bolt-gadget is set on different marks on each side. The right one looks like it is set to have more toe in that the left. The right one is 4 marks positive toe-in, the left is 1 marks positive toe-in. I'm assuming these marks are just for reference, and don't represent the actual toe-in, just that's the setting it took to get the rear wheel alignment correct when the car was built.
Do I have a rear wheel bearing problem? A rear-tire alignment problem? Something else?
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So due to a puncture I got earlier this week, I had to buy a new front passenger side right tire. Now the car pulls very slightly to the right. Is this due to having about 6k miles on the left tire and a brand new right tire or do I need an alignment again?
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Premature tire wear and faulty wheel alignment issues on 2004 Touareg V8 with 10,000 miles. My dealer informed me that my original tires, Continental 4X4 Contact 255/55R18s were about to need replacement and that there were known issues with the tire compound and alignment specifications. I have had the vehicle about 14 months. He said it was over twelve months but he would bring it up with the district representative. I told him that I thought this came under concealed defects and I expected VW to replace the tires and align all four wheels to whatever the current spec. Are there VW bulletins covering this I can obtain copies of?
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Potholes are nasty where I live .It sounds like there's something in my trunk rolling back and fourth. When I accelerate it knocks back. When I brake it knocks forward. Just like rolling, it only happens once in each direction. Sort of sounds like the noise of bending/popping metal.I'm taking my car in later this week.
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The 2010 Corolla Manual illustrates on page 329 pattern "D" as if to suggest we have "same size directional" tires. It is my understanding directional tires will have an arrow on the sidewall. If it doesn't have an arrow, it's non-directional and it doesn't matter which way it rotates. I don't see an arrow on my tires. Which of the following patterns are you using?
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My indicator light came on. I put some air on the two front tires to make it 33/34. But the light is still on. I need to check the two rear tires?
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I slid, probably going about 20-25mph. Driver side tire hit the curb. Rim looks scraped, tire appears to be fine, steering wheel is a little loose feeling.
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As the title says, I can't get the light to go off. I followed the procedure to reset it but after it blinks three times, the light is still on. I've also read that I need to take the car above speeds of 19mph and/or an hour, for light to disappear but still nothing. Although I didn't drive it more than an hour since my commute is short. I've made sure that the pressure is around 30psi on all four tires.
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What is the part number to the TPMS sensors for a 2011 Corolla S. Or any stock toyota ones that will work?
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Last week I was losing pressure on my left rear tire. It turned out to be a 3 inch spike that was bent inside the tire. The tires are the original Goodyears with 37k miles on them. I decided to replace 2 rear tires with Yokohama YK580s and turned the extra Goodyear in to a full size spare
Question. At high speeds 50 plus the rear feels like it's sliding a bit if I barely move the steering wheel. Having issues with 2 different tires.
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I have never had this problem with my 2010 Matrix until this week when I put the summer rims with transponders back on.
As per the manual, I turned the key to "on" and held the reset button. The pressure warning light is supposed to slowly flash 3 times to indicate that it has been reset, then go out. Holding the reset button has no effect this year and the pressure warning light just stays on.
The manual says to take it to a Toyota service centre if the reset procedure fails.
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So I just bought new wheels, and had them put on. Went from stock 16's to 17's now. After I had them put on there was no issue.
Now after I was driving for about 30 mins, I noticed that the Low Tire Pressure Indicator started flashing for 20-30 seconds, then stayed solid.
And now the indicator has been there ever since. I've tried reinitializing the TPMS but it stlll didn't go away.
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Had snow tires on separate rims without pressure sensors installed today. Service rep said that the tire pressure warning light will come on and stay on. However I rode car home and the warning light did not stay on after the initial engine start up. Is this a problem and a concern, or a good thing ?
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I bought a wall mounted tire rack and its maximum weight capacity is 300 lbs.I need to know how much a stock 15" wheel weight including the tire. I don't have a scale.This is for a 2012 Corolla.
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2014 FX4 F. Got 6000 miles on the truck, front tires are wearing on the outside edge, and also when turning the wheels to the max in either direction I get a loud creaking sound,??
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I have a 2006 SC 430 with 20,000 miles on it The (run flat) tires are wearing on the inside and the dealer says that they need replacing The local tire shop agrees, and will sell the tires to me for less, and also throw in an alignment He says that alignment is the reason for the uneven wear But the dealer says that the wheel on my 2006 SC 430 cannot be aligned, and that the new ones will probably wear the same way
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I have 2010 GS350 AWD. Tires are Dunlop and have 7000 miles on them and the car has 47k miles. The issue is the rear inner tire are cupping and make roar noise. Car is all stock. I have done alignment twice at the dealer. They are telling me everything is normal. I have personally inspected everything under the car and did not find anything abnormal, no blowing bushing, and no oil coming from struts. I have read there is no camber adjustment in the rear.
What could cause the gs350 AWD this cupping? Only in the rear? Would camber correct such problem?
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