Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Ticking Noise Under 1000 RPMs When Car Is Idling
May 9, 2015
I have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
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Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
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When your car is idling the rpms drop below 600rpm and you can feel like its going to stall but then goes normal. How do i fix this? Clean throttle body???
Also how hard is it to change the transmission fluid? Possible to do it at home?
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2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
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I have an 09 matrix 1.8 130k mi. developed a ticking in the top end, after an oil change it went away and came back 1.5k later, pulled the eng oil filter and found some fine metal, my question is does this eng have ocv filters for the ocv solenoids ? if so where ?
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when I'm slowly accelerating from a stop there's a repetitive metallic ticking sound from 1st-2nd gear and it goes away after it changes to 3rd. I drive an automatic with 15k miles btw. It comes and goes but when I have a heavy foot off the line, the ticking goes away.
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2009 corolla bought in early 08's so car just about 5 years old. This morning when I turned the heat on I heard a ticking noise. I'm assuming it is the from the heater blower motor? I think the part is behind the glove box. Where is the best place to get the part and where is the best place to find how to do the install?
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Just recently purchased a 2013 Toyota Corolla LE. It has just under 500 miles as of today, and I was planning on changing the oil within the next week.
However, on my way home I noticed an almost ticking noise coming from the engine bay whenever I would accelerate. There wasn't a loss of power, but with the radio off and air off as well you could clearly hear it.
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I just took my wifes 2013 S to the dealer over a very loud ticking noise that I suspected was the fuel injectors. It ticks at all speeds, idle, etc. The dealer called and said that it was a completely normal sound. I have an identical model except it's a 2012 and it makes absolutely no noise. Her car has only 5000 miles on it. I was wondering if this is a common problem or if the sound truly is normal. This wouldn't be the first time that a stealership has given me the run around.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8 with 18,000 miles on it. My wife mainly drives it, today after getting it washed, I was driving and noticed a very faint noise from the engine compartment. Seems to be coming from the passenger front. The sound is something like grr grr grr.... I made sure it's not the wheels by putting the car in neutral and giving it gas which made the sound audible (I can also hear it while idling).
I had my wife sit in the car with me, and she couldn't hear anything, but I can, so I'm afraid when I go to the dealer he will say the same "I can't replicate the noise". What it can be?
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
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I recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
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My 09 corolla is running rough when idling in drive. It doesn't happen in park or neutral.
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I have a 2013 Corolla S. I notice when I let the car idle for like 5-10 minutes the Average mpg readout drops to around 22 mpg(in city while driving it is usually at 25). Why is this?
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My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
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So yesterday i just noticed a ticking sound (drivers side, almost sounds like its coming from from under my drivers seat underneath the car) when i make sharper turns, but it wont tick when i make regular turns or go around corners.
I lowered my car about 5 or 6 months ago on Tein S Tech 9th gen springs, could that have caused whatever this ticking sound is to start ?
2010 Corolla
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I'm new to owning a Toyota. I just financed a 2010 black Toyota corolla S with 36 miles on it from a local dealership after i decided my last car was pretty much a money pit (2001 expedition)...blew the head gaskets, then after that was fixed developed a bad knock...anyhow i just decided i was overdue for a new car. Its a 5 speed manual and at highway speeds (65-70mph) I've noticed the rpms are bit high...like around 3grand. Is that normal? Just seemed really high to me, I really think this car would do great with a 6 speed. Also is the corolla governed? I was on a long stretch of road and i quickly got to 110ish with no sign of a governor kicking in...?
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Ran into a strange situation today. I actually noticed it last week but thought it was due to Seattle's recent surge of hot weather but guess not.
Anyway here are the symptoms of my 2010 Automatic Corolla LE. Upon turning on the car, the needles do their thing and rev all the way and then come back down, I have watched the RPM needle go to below 1 since I've owned the car. Now, it stays at around 1.5k to 2k RPM before going down to below 1.
While parked, or just when I'm at a light, the RPM needle fluctuates and flip flops between roughly 800 rpm to 1k rpm every few seconds. I can hear it happen sometimes.
Because it hasn't happened in 3 years until now, I'm assuming this is not normal. Or is it, and is just regular wear and tear?
The only thing I have in terms of engine mods is the Takeda SRI, and I've had that for about 2 years with no issues. I have a 400W amp powering a pair of focals up front and a 200W sub in the trunk. But I've noticed all these issues when I have the radio off. I've been keeping the AC on 2 for the past week now, could that have something to do with it?
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I have a new to me 2009 matrix. I have noticed that the RPMs at around 2,200 when driving in town at 40 MPH then after a few minutes they drop to 1,600. I know I'm wasting gas running 2,200 RPM when driving at 40 MPH so I have started putting the car in neutral then quickly back into drive and the RPMs are at 1,600. I am also putting the car in neutral as I come to a red light or stop sign RPMs drop to around 900.
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Having problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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