Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Sunroof Does Not Fully Open When Button Pushed
Jan 10, 2014
While pushing the button to open the sunroof, I noticed it does not open fully. It opens about 3/4th of the way and stops but if I press the button again, it'll open the sunroof fully. Is this normal?
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Corolla 2009.. battery died.. jump started it.. alarm went off on my car since i accidentally put my car key in the other car and tried to start the car. Got the alarm to stop after i disconnected the jumper cables.. Now my car won't start after 20 minutes of keeping on the other car with jumper cables.. Light work but stereo and dashboards light wont come up either.. The keyless entry locks the car but does not unlocks it.. When I put my key in the ignition, the security light stops flashing..
My headlights and interiors light work.. The engine is cranking when i try to start it, but wont go fully through..
Model: corolla
Year: 2009
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
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Is the sunroof drain supposed to drain into the trunk? Check out this pic:
Is the Tube supposed to be going where that plug is? If so, is there a specific Toyota plug part number I should use?
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I'm having some issues with my sunroof on my 2010 Corolla: the switch seems to be unresponsive, but if I push the button several times, the sunroof will open up (this happens with both the slide and the tilt function).
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In colder climates have frost on the inside of the glass first thing in the morning?
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I have a 2011 corolla S with 32.5k on it, so my 3yr/36k warranty is running up in a few months. my car from day one (that I had it, at 17k)has had an annoying rattle in the headliner ahead of the sunroof, near the overhead lights. If I press up, even slightly on the lip of the headliner around the front of the sunroof cutout, it goes away. Dealer thinks its normal and says repairs wouldn't be covered under warranty.
The second is a new one, when I go over a bump in the road at highway speeds, there is a squeak coming from the center of the dashboard, at first I thought it was a strut, but after driving back and forth on the same stretch of road for half an hour, I found it to be coming from somewhere behind the radio. Dealer says, squeaks will happen as a car ages.
Do I need to take it to a new dealer (about an hour away) or can I fix this myself?
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Alright so I have an 09 Corolla sport and cannot find the traction control button. I feel extremely stupid but I just can't find it..
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My top will not work. when I push the open button nothing happens. what should I look for?
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I just got my '09 Corolla last night and it's doing something I'm not sure it is supposed to do. When I go out to my car I press the unlock button and open the door. A beeping noise starts immediately before the key is even in the ignition. When I do put the key in the beeping continues and does not stop until I close the door. The car I had before this was an '89 Corolla so I don't have any experience with these keyless entry things.
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I just purchased a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE. The factory radio has a 'Phone' button on the right hand side of the radio. When I push the button, the display shows 'Unavailable.' What this button is for? With the Blu Logic kit, it has a separate phone button that mounts in the dash knockouts. Can the phone button on the radio be used instead?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla, and the door open indicator will intermittently turn on and off. I isolated the problem to the trunk, and unplugged the trunk latch assembly so that the trunk dome light doesn't drain my battery. Before I unplugged it, my key fob could open the trunk remotely. I can still manually open my trunk using a key or the lever next to the drivers seat. Is there something on the latch assembly that I can check if it's triggering?
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Is the battery draining if you leave the door open all the way with dome light off?
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Here is the problem, door and the driver and passenger side is on the lock position but can be open from the inside but not outside. The back 2 door works fine, its on the lock, you cant open it and you can only open it if you put it on the unlock position. Child lock in not active on all doors (I think its only back tho). Wireless lock/unlock works fine, I hear them lock but if you are on a driver or a passenger and the door in on lock position, you can easily open the door inside even tho its on lock position, but outside, its lock and cant be open.
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So once in a while, a full press (either up or down) on the drivers side window button does not cause the window to fully open or close fully as it should... I'm wondering if this is something (a "feature") I'm somehow activating and just don't know it, or what. If I roll the window all the way up (needing the hold the button up until the window is all the way up), it will then behave normally--a full press down, release, and the window will go all the way down. This just started in the last month or so...
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I recently purchased a 2009 Honda Civic EX. I also have a 2012 Honda CRV, and I'd like to set the key fob/car behavior like the CRV, in that when I click the unlock button, all doors open, instead of the 'classic' behavior one click drivers-side, two clicks both sides - is there a way to set this up ?
Also, I used to have a 2005 Honda Accord, and it had a neat option/behavior - hold down the unlock button after unlocking the car, and the driver and passenger side windows go down - pretty handy when you've parked the car during a hot day - can program that into the key fob/car ?
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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So I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
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My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
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I was wondering would the 2.4 2az-fe fit in to my 1.8 corolla I want to get a bare block or blown engine and build it up and turbo it and then put it into my corolla. Would the 2.4 bolt up in place of the 1.8 and if so where I can get a bare block or a complete engine?
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09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
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