Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Sunroof Switch Unresponsive?
Jun 3, 2016
I'm having some issues with my sunroof on my 2010 Corolla: the switch seems to be unresponsive, but if I push the button several times, the sunroof will open up (this happens with both the slide and the tilt function).
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Is the sunroof drain supposed to drain into the trunk? Check out this pic:
Is the Tube supposed to be going where that plug is? If so, is there a specific Toyota plug part number I should use?
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In colder climates have frost on the inside of the glass first thing in the morning?
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While pushing the button to open the sunroof, I noticed it does not open fully. It opens about 3/4th of the way and stops but if I press the button again, it'll open the sunroof fully. Is this normal?
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I have a 2011 corolla S with 32.5k on it, so my 3yr/36k warranty is running up in a few months. my car from day one (that I had it, at 17k)has had an annoying rattle in the headliner ahead of the sunroof, near the overhead lights. If I press up, even slightly on the lip of the headliner around the front of the sunroof cutout, it goes away. Dealer thinks its normal and says repairs wouldn't be covered under warranty.
The second is a new one, when I go over a bump in the road at highway speeds, there is a squeak coming from the center of the dashboard, at first I thought it was a strut, but after driving back and forth on the same stretch of road for half an hour, I found it to be coming from somewhere behind the radio. Dealer says, squeaks will happen as a car ages.
Do I need to take it to a new dealer (about an hour away) or can I fix this myself?
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Subject Vehicle: 2013 Corolla LE
I have a 1993 Base, a 2006 LE, a 2007 LE, and a 2013 LE. All of them Except the 2013 have automatic headlights. That is: you get into the car, start the engine, and drive away with the headlights on. Then later when you turn off the key and get out of the car the headlights are either automatically off or go off soon after.
But on the 2013 the headlights just stay on or off unless manually switched on or off with the stalk switch. Am I missing something here? Why would the 2013 LE Not have this very convenient feature when even my 1993 Base model with zero options Does have it?
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My master window switch stop working. All of the other window switches work from the other doors. The driver side one will not work any of the windows. the power lock works but I cannot control any of the windows from the driver side.
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I haven't been on in a while due to my laptop breaking on me well recently i purchased the V3 triton switchback from vleds as well as just red V3 triton leds. After the install i blew my flasher fuse which i replaced then when i attempted it again i must have blown something else because my corner lights no longer go on and when i turn my lights on i no longer get the sign on the cluster notifying me that they are on. I have removed the lights and the issue was i did not order ck socket adapter. So what i have done so far is checked all fuses and i have nothing burned under the driver side and under the hood. I must have looked over everything 10 times checked all fuses with a test light and i don't see anything with DRL or Corner lights labeled anywhere on the fuse panels. Is it possible i burned the module DRL module?
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I have a question about my 2009 Toyota corolla. About a week ago it was pretty cold out and when I started my car and I heard a grinding type noise for just a split second and it was over. It never did it again after that. Well I went to start my car yesterday and it will not start or even turn over. The dash doesn't light up, the head lights, radio, windows are door locks will not work. The battery was checked and it's fine. My husband is thinking that it maybe the ignition switch. Does this sound right?
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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So I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
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My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
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I was wondering would the 2.4 2az-fe fit in to my 1.8 corolla I want to get a bare block or blown engine and build it up and turbo it and then put it into my corolla. Would the 2.4 bolt up in place of the 1.8 and if so where I can get a bare block or a complete engine?
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I have a 1998 Mazda Protege LX Automatic, and my ignition switch is completely unresponsive: when on accessory or run position nothing comes on.
I am also noticing that I can switch gears even with the key out and brake pedal not depressed.
I tried to check the function of the ignition switch, and found the following:1) It has one white wire with 3.5v2) When the switch is in Acc position, a black wire with white stripe also has 3.5V on it now3) WHen the switch is in On position, all the wires going into the Switch have 3.5V on them...
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09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
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The air coming out when the on the drivers side is significantly warmer than the air coming out on the passenger side when the A/C is cranked to four. At times it is borderline hot unless I kick back the setting to a two or three and then the sides even out a bit more, but it still seems like the right side of the car is much cooler.
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Where is the Air Filter? How do you access it? 2011 LE
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I have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
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Quick search found this post asking about changing the ECU, so it sounds like I'm not the only person to have heard this.
I've had my '09 Corolla for almost exactly 1 year and I've put 22k miles on it. All oil changes with Toyota elements and conventional oil at 1k miles and Mobil 1 5W-20 at 5, 10, 15, and 20k.
It's rattling like it isn't getting oil at start-up... intermittently. Sometimes it starts up just fine and others it rattles like it doesn't have oil for the first second or two. What's going on here?
I'm about ready to take it in to the dealer for an assessment, but with it being intermittent and all, I'm not expecting to be well-received. I know if I was looking at this as a used car and I heard what I've been hearing, I'd run.
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Owner of a 2011 Corolla S and wanting to install a TRD exhaust.
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Wierd thing happened this morning to my 2013 Corolla. Put key into ignition switch and put it to "ACC" but wasn't paying attention and went just past the detent. So then a sound like the radiator fan under hood started. Turned it to "IGN" and it went away.
I can recreate this. If you go to "ACC" and slowly keep turning eventually a relay kicks and the fan (not AC, but a loud noise like radiator fan) comes on. Going to either "ACC" or "IGN" will stop it? This normal?
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