Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Squealing And Screeching When Brake In Reverse
Aug 13, 2012
So I have a 2010 corolla s with 30k miles. I replaced my rotors and pads about 2 weeks ago to get rid of this problem. The problem was gone for a week and now it's back. I get tons of squealing and screeching when I brake in reverse.
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Basically, whenever I brake, my front brakes squeal. But they only do this if I use about 25% to 33% force. If I press on the pedal harder, the squealing goes away and the same if I reduce the force.
I replaced my pads with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads in March 2015. The noise started a month or 2 after replacing my pads, and I've only put about 12k miles on them. I had my car in a couple weeks ago for an oil change, and the inspection showed that the pads still had plenty of life on them. I brought it up to the service advisor, and he suggested that my rotors might be warped and need to be machined. The problem with that is I feel absolutely no vibration in my brake pedal that would indicate warpage.
So the only other thing I can think of is the shims might be causing the noise. I was going to get some grease and apply that and see if it works. Also, when I was replacing the pads I bled out a little more brake fluid than I intended. But it hasn't seemed to affect my braking ability so I ruled that out.
Any guesses for what might cause this? Like I said, I have plenty of material left on the pads and I can stop without problems, so it's not a safety issue, just a tad annoying.
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I've been having this issue with my 2009 Toyota Corolla for some time now. When I turn the car on, there is a noise coming from under the hood that sounds like a screeching/grinding noise. I have captured the noise in this video: [URL] ....
It happens most times I turn my car on in the morning, after it has been sitting off and untouched for the night. When I am turning the car on afterwards throughout the day, the noise is less likely to appear.
I recently took my car in and got the water pump and belt replaced, because a few months ago I was driving down the highway and I heard a similar noise coming from under the hood, and I opened the hood and red coolant liquid was splashed everywhere. I am not knowledgeable about cars at all, but the dealership replaced the water pump and the belt and that seemed to fix that issue, but the grinding noise upon ignition is still there.
I took it into the dealership, but they were not able to replicate the issue because it had not been the first time the car was turned on for the day, so there was no grinding noise. I would like to know if it is the water pump or belt, since those are still under a 2 year warranty with the dealership. Otherwise, I need to know what this is so I can get it fixed.
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I hear a loud screeching noise (like a loose belt) when the 2009 Corolla starts cold. It disappears and when the car gets a little warmer, it's gone. I had the belt replaced, made no difference. Car runs fine, otherwise.
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So I just traded my old car in for this one and I've had it maybe a little over a month. Anyways, when I go to start it now, even if I just turn on the main power and let the radio start up and the computer and then turn the engine. When it turns, majority of the time it will "squeal" like there something might be going wrong with a belt in there. I know that the timing belt should be changed once every so many miles, just not so sure on my vehicle. Also, if it could be anything else besides that.
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I bought my 06 Corolla LE last week and just started hearing a nasty squeaking sound whenever I applied the brakes. I took it to the dealer today and 4 hours later he calls me and tells me that he had to readjust my back brakes and lube them up and it should be fine..About a half hour into driving the car around town I start hearing this noise again. Now he's telling me to bring back in the morning to see what the issue is.
My question is besides the brake pads and rotors which were checked by another mechanic that said they were good what the hell could be the issue?
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Just bought a used 09 Corolla LE with 89K miles on it. I noticed a subtle rough idle when I come to a stop light and especially noticeable when in reverse. Here are the things I've tried so far:
- TB and fuel system cleaned at Instant Valvoline
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with a MAF sensor cleaner
- Replaced the spark plugs with OEM plugs
- Replaced air filter
- New water pump
- Bled the coolant system
I also took it to the dealership and had them checked the PCV and the timing chain tensioner replaced. And of course their response was they couldn't replicate the problem. They also said if there's anything wrong with the O2 sensors, the IAC or the TB system, it will throw an error code. So they basically charged me about $100 to tell me there's nothing they could do and just put up with it until the check engine light come on.
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I bought a DVD player for my 2010 corolla,everything is ok the only problem is I can't see reverse image automatically when I reverse my car.
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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I have 2009 corolla with about 125, 000 on it. A few times over the past couple of weeks on chilly mornings (in the 50's) the transmission did not engage in reverse right away. Usually with the fast idle you can feel it kick in but on these days it takes a few seconds before that happens. I have had the car for two years and have done nothing about transmission service. A dealer told me it was lifetime fluid and there is no dip stick to check it. Is this a common problem? Is this a sign the trans is on the way out? Should I sell the car now before it gets worse?
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I have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
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Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
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So I was on my way home i was 2 miles away from my house and my abs light and e-brake light randomly go on. I got home and turned car off and back on and it was still there.
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Our brake reservoir cap is rubber, and just pops on. There's a little top hat on top of that that plugs the tiny little breather in the actual cap. I lost mind down in the depths of the engine bay.
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I have an 09 corolla S with 119000 miles.
My car shakes when i brake on the freeway and I just got new tires so Im sure it must be the rotors.
Is it better to just get new rotors or have a shop machine the old ones down.
Which way is more cost effective?? and how hard would it be to install them myself?
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On my 2010 s ,my pedal brake begin to work on low position, I have 35000km it is normal? my wife hate this car because this.
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I have a 2009 matrix 1.8 automatic with 103,000km on it. The brakes were making a noise so I pulled off the front wheels and inspected and cleaned the front brakes which were in great shape. I pulled the rear wheels and found that the outer disc pads were wearing on about a 30 degree angle. The inners were just fine! I've been doing brakes for over 40 years and have never seen this! Also, the rears don't work hard and should outlast the fronts by at least 2! I called Toyota Canada and they blew me off until I asked to talk to someone higher up! They are doing a technical review, but I believe they will tell me it's just my car! I think it's a design flaw!
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On my 2009 Matrix XR (2.4L), my right rear brake pad is wearing unevenly. I'm up to 87000 km (54000 miles). My first pad change was one year ago. I kept the pads and only noticed this time that the wear was at an angle on the outer pad, both times.
The inner pad is ok.
Multiple pictures below:
The other pictures:
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i have a 2010 Corolla XRS and was wondering the following:
-How good are ceramic brake pads?
-Do they last longer than normal OEM pads?....under normal driving.
I was considering buying a complete set of drilled rotors and ceramic pads for my car.
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My Abs traction control vsc off (keeps flashing) and brake light went on in my 2010 corolla....
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My 2009 Toyota Corolla LE is squeaking. The noise is coming from its rear break -- driver side. It happens only at a low speed when pressing the brake half way to slow down the car until it stops. Only 60-70% of the time though that it has the noise and only when going slow in the traffic and hit the brake. It doesn't seem to squeak on the highway.
The car has about 40k miles. I've heard that the rear brakes suppose to last ~100k miles. My questions and concerns are:
1. Is it too soon to replace rear drum breaks?
2. How to check the rear break pads to see if I really need to change them?
3. Are they just dirty? How to clean the rear breaks?
4. Finally, if I really need to replace them, how much does it cost in general?
I wish they were dish brakes -- so much easier to replace them.
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