Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Squeak When Press The Clutch Down
Apr 17, 2013
I have a 2011 corolla XRS 5 speed with about 32,000 km's. There is a squeak when i press the clutch down coming from outside the car. I brought in my car for scheduled maintenance and they initially said that the clutch fork would be to be lubricated. I got the car back, thinking all had been taken care of, but noticed next day that it was still squeaking. I went back there for them to tell me. 'oh yeah, we can't lubricate unless we pull off your tranny.' I would have to leave the car there all day and so forth and so forth.
I thought it would have been a simple solution but i am concerned now about them pulling off the tranny and therefore maybe causing some other issues now or later.
I don't hear the squeak when driving usually only when stopped with window open and pressing the clutch.
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I have a squeak when I change gears, especially from 1st to 2nd. I have a twm short shifter with bronze cable bushings. My first thought was that the bronze bushings were causing the squeak, but I eventually narrowed it down to the shaft that comes out of the back of the transmission with the weight bolted on it (not sure what it's called). I took out the intake filter box so I could get at it and confirm that it was where the squeaking was coming from. That's definitely where it was coming from so I pulled back the boot seal and greased the shaft with some white lithium grease. That has worked a bit, but the squeak is still there.
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I just got my '09 Corolla last night and it's doing something I'm not sure it is supposed to do. When I go out to my car I press the unlock button and open the door. A beeping noise starts immediately before the key is even in the ignition. When I do put the key in the beeping continues and does not stop until I close the door. The car I had before this was an '89 Corolla so I don't have any experience with these keyless entry things.
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I have a 2011 corolla S with 32.5k on it, so my 3yr/36k warranty is running up in a few months. my car from day one (that I had it, at 17k)has had an annoying rattle in the headliner ahead of the sunroof, near the overhead lights. If I press up, even slightly on the lip of the headliner around the front of the sunroof cutout, it goes away. Dealer thinks its normal and says repairs wouldn't be covered under warranty.
The second is a new one, when I go over a bump in the road at highway speeds, there is a squeak coming from the center of the dashboard, at first I thought it was a strut, but after driving back and forth on the same stretch of road for half an hour, I found it to be coming from somewhere behind the radio. Dealer says, squeaks will happen as a car ages.
Do I need to take it to a new dealer (about an hour away) or can I fix this myself?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S Got it brand new in november of 2009. Its been 5 years since I had it and never had this problem.
So this has been happening for a month now, and I can't figure out what it is? It only sounds at first startup of the day when the engine is cold and only sounds off for 1 second right when you start the car.
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Have a click when the clutch engages? Manual transmission.
Everytime is release the clutch, I hear the clutch click when it grabs. It's not the pedal that clicks. It's inside the transmission.
It runs fine, and it's been doing it right off the lot. It's not that loud to actually bother me, I'm just wondering if its normal.
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I got my 2011 S Corolla brand new and it's been great thus far. To make things a little more exciting, I got a manual. The last manual I had was my 2006 325i so it's been a little while.
Over the past few weeks, both my wife and I are experiencing quite a bit of clutch shudder or chatter and are finding it more and more difficult to engage the clutch without completely shaking the car. We've noticed this the longer the car is driven. On cold starts it doesn't happen. I've read some horror stories of the tranny going out, a weak transmission mount, or a warped flywheel in these Corollas. We bought this car because it's supposed to be reliable and get good mileage. Also, I'm still under the powertrain warranty but I'm not sure if they'll cover the clutch.
I have not checked the transmission fluid yet either. I can really use some suggestions. I had a 318is for over 100,000 miles and never put a new clutch in it!!! I'm getting frustrated.
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I think this is just poor dealer service, but I need a sanity check.
I have 93k miles on my Corolla. My clutch creaks like an old school bus when I engage and disengage. It's done this pretty much all along and I think I had another dealer successfully lube the linkage to quiet it down -- it was miles and years ago so I may be misremembering that.
My current dealer says all they can do for it now is REPLACE THE WHOLE FREAKING CLUTCH assembly to the tune of $1,300. Clearly, I'm not doing this. As long as it works, I ain't replacin' the clutch, but, REALLY?
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It was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
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Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
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I have a 2011 Toyota Corolla S 5 speed manual and after 15000 miles I noticed a ticking noise in my engine bay and goes away once I push down on the clutch, but once I get off the clutch the noise comes back. Is this a normal thing or should I be concern? I have 75000 miles on my car now, is it covered through the extended manufacturer warranty coverage of 120000 miles?
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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So I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
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My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
[URL] ....
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I was wondering would the 2.4 2az-fe fit in to my 1.8 corolla I want to get a bare block or blown engine and build it up and turbo it and then put it into my corolla. Would the 2.4 bolt up in place of the 1.8 and if so where I can get a bare block or a complete engine?
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09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
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The air coming out when the on the drivers side is significantly warmer than the air coming out on the passenger side when the A/C is cranked to four. At times it is borderline hot unless I kick back the setting to a two or three and then the sides even out a bit more, but it still seems like the right side of the car is much cooler.
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Where is the Air Filter? How do you access it? 2011 LE
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I have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
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Quick search found this post asking about changing the ECU, so it sounds like I'm not the only person to have heard this.
I've had my '09 Corolla for almost exactly 1 year and I've put 22k miles on it. All oil changes with Toyota elements and conventional oil at 1k miles and Mobil 1 5W-20 at 5, 10, 15, and 20k.
It's rattling like it isn't getting oil at start-up... intermittently. Sometimes it starts up just fine and others it rattles like it doesn't have oil for the first second or two. What's going on here?
I'm about ready to take it in to the dealer for an assessment, but with it being intermittent and all, I'm not expecting to be well-received. I know if I was looking at this as a used car and I heard what I've been hearing, I'd run.
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Owner of a 2011 Corolla S and wanting to install a TRD exhaust.
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