I have a corolla 2009 and everything has been running great except that we found a falling part under the car yesterday. I don't know where the part came from or if it's even part of the car. Tell me if it's a major problem or something minor or a non-issue.
This was found under the passenger side under the car pretty much where the middle of the door is. [URL] …..
What is the part number to the TPMS sensors for a 2011 Corolla S. Or any stock toyota ones that will work?
View 2 RepliesI had a bottle of Draino spill on my passenger seat, and now I have these big white stains that don't come off.. and the Draino ate through my seat cover. How do I get this fixed? Do they sell the seat cover as it comes with the vehicle OEM?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 corolla s and only one of the rear seats drops down when I pull the corresponding latch in the trunk. On the side that does not work, the latch still appears to "pull" out the same amount as the latch that works, except the seat won't release and drop down.
View 1 RepliesMy aunt somehow managed to drop coins that landed on/in the driver's seat track. How would I be able to remove the coins? Also, are there any electric wires I should know of before beginning the process?
View 2 RepliesI've noticed a noise coming out of the rear seat for awhile now. Noticed today the driver side rear seat won't latch into position. Don't know how long it was like that. Even the lever inside the trunk is stuck in the closed position. It seems like I shouldn't be able to fold the seat down but I can't get it to close. The dealer said it would be a time consuming fix because they actually have to crawl inside the trunk to get to the assembly.
View 5 RepliesIf your experiencing a clicking noise coming from the lower right side of your driver seat, more noticeable over rough roads with pressure applied to the backrest, read on. After much trial and error troubleshooting, here's what worked for me.
I removed the tension on a small clock like spring located on the driver seat back right side pivot point. Since having done so, no more annoying clicking sound and I haven't noticed any difference or adverse side-effect in seat operation /adjustment. I've got photos....
I am a two Corolla owner. I have a 2004 with 205, 000 kms and a 2010 with 70,000 kms. By far, my favourite car to drive is the 2004. The build quality is by far better. I could list other issues or pt peeves of mine about the 2010.
My 2010 is giving me some issues.
For starters my seat and console squeak like crazy. About 10, 000 kms ago I had the dealer try to deal with it under a TBS.
The next issue I have is that when I turn my steering wheel I hear a low pinging noise!
Lastly, in my trunk that plastic pieces that hold the trunk latch cable to the trunk arm have broken.
As for those plastic pieces in the trunk, what the part numbers might be?
I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE. I've noticed recently that the driver's seat moves either forwards or backwards when coming to a stop. The movement is not dramatic, but sure is noticeable and annoying. I took the car into the dealership, and they told me if this problem was not caused by the car itself and was occurring because of me, they will charge me around 125 dollars for a diagnosis charge. I took the car right out. Is it just normal wear? My solution was to remove the whole seat and see if there are any loose nuts. By the way, the seats are manual.
View 7 RepliesAm I still the only one with an irritating scrunchy sound coming from the left bolster of the driver's seat back?
When the temperature is above 0 Celsius the bolster makes a scrunchy squeak every time I lean back, accelerate, or take off from a stop.
It would appear to be the supplemental air bag material rubbing against the foam or upholstery of the seat.
Toyota says this should be under warranty, but it has been too cold out lately to demonstrate to the service dept.
I know that I could fix it by removing the factory seat cover and tweaking the air bag placement somewhat, but this is not as easy as it sounds, potentially dangerous, and if it is under warranty, I'd prefer the "experts" to address the problem.
I've noticed since I bought my car that when I drive the passenger side window tends to creep down and I have to hit the switch to bring it back up. It doesn't come down a lot but enough to hear the wind whistle through it. I'm not sure if this is motor or regulator issue or what.
View 9 RepliesMy rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
I checked my pads today and noticed that the drivers pad is worn about 50% more than the passenger in the front. What could be the problem??
View 5 RepliesI am headed to the dealer under warranty but still want to know. I have at least one oil leak and maybe several on my 2010 s. Passenger side rear of engine. Maybe minor seep at the chain tensioner but I think I have several below that. What are the two sensors below the tensioner? Are there leak issues on the engine? Car has 50K and is under certified warranty.
View 3 RepliesSo today I was driving around and suddenly my VSC ABS and Brake light came on. I thought it was because I didn't engage my e brake so I stopped pulled it up and put it down. It was still there but disappeared after a while
Then later it came back up. This time I went to slow down and pull aside. While slowing down my car suddenly had a grinding/jerking noise and motion.
Now my passenger HID doesn't work. Also when I turn off car it kind of shudders/shakes.
Could it be a voltage issue?My brakes are kind of going bad. I switched the builds around by putting the driver bulb into the passenger bulb and it works. So is that a bulb issue or is it related to the VSC?
I have a 2009 toyota matrix that as over 140,00 miles when I drive down the road the front passenger side bounces up and down. There is no difference in speed from 25 all the way up to 60 plus.
View 2 RepliesI currently own a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with around 30,000 miles. Recently, I noticed a bit of rattling from the passenger's head rest. At first, there was rattling when the head rest was up, but went away when I pushed it back down. Now, the rattling appeared again even with the headrest all the way down. I attempted to switch the actual head rest from the driver seat to the passenger seat, but the same problem is there. I'm guessing it's the actual seat which is holding the rods to the head rest? I also tapped both seats and the noise from inside the passenger seat sounded a lot loose.
View 3 RepliesSo, I've been noticing that my passenger side window in my Corolla is being a little weird. Whenever someone opens or closes the door while the window is closed, the window makes a rattling sound. Also, when I play music in the car, the window sounds like it's shaking even though it is fully up. The other windows don't do this and it will stop if I press the button to raise the window. Another thing it does is that when the window is almost fully down, it makes a thump or a clicking noising and then it goes down. So could it be a loose window or a bad motor? Also, any way to fix this myself other than taking out the door panel?
View 6 RepliesI bought a use 2009 Matrix S 2.4L (2AZ-FE) with about 81000 miles on it. when the car is at idle i hear a light tapping sound on the passenger side. It sounds like the engine but am not sure what it might be. What is causing the tapping sound and how to fix it? (i saw some ppl post about the OCV.) The car also has a light vibration when am at a stop n in gear. Its annoying because i bought a car not a tractor.
View 6 RepliesSo my passenger front door is vibrating inside somewhere ... tho' it could be the door panel itself possibly !?
I've removed the door panel hoping to find something loose inside that is causing this buzzing. All the door panel's locating pins are intact and secure the panel as they should. In other words... The door panel secures as it should and nothing looks broken at it's attachment points.
The noise does not occur on a smooth road surface...and only occurs on rougher road. So I realize the vibration is being transmitted by road vibrations.
I can hear/feel a lite jolt from the tire's contact with the road's surface irregularities and if the road surface remains consistently rough ... that jolt turns into a buzzing drone type noise. Well ... at least until I hit a smooth road surface again. Then the buzzing subsides. No, it is not an electrical buzz/noise.
Sounds more like plastic vibrating against the door's inner surface... But I don't see a scuff mark or anything giving me a clue as to what it could be !?
I've thought of removing the door panel...then take a test drive without it installed. Just to be sure it is not the the window glass support/channels... door lock/lever mech. rod or loose wiring. But haven't done that as of yet. With the door panel removed... I don't see anything that looks loose or could be causing this rattle/buzzing noise ?
It's difficult to say exactly where this noise is transmitted from... but if I were to guess... I have to think it's possibly near center... around the arm rest area. I see behind that is only some wires coming from the window control unit. But I don't see how those could be culprit of this buzzing noise ?
My '10 is still under the 36K warranty...
So today I'm out running errands. Its hot and the ac is on. I notice water is coming out from underneath the dashboard on the passenger side. I pull the floor mat and water is everywhere. Soaked!! Ok so the ac water that's supposed to drip outside and underneath the car is now dripping inside the car. I pull off all the plastic crap, glove box to see if I can tell where its coming from. Not seeing it. Also some crap must have gotten wet because my check engine light is on along with a flashing vsr off light.
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