Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Slip Indicator Turned On When Drive With Heavy Steering
Dec 18, 2015
My 2013 Corolla drove 10 minutes with heavy steering after starting. The slip indicator turned on and stays on after. Would OBD II show the problem? Can one read OBD II without scanner? How to turn off the slip indicator?
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE, about 58k miles. The latest work I did was replace the brake pads, rotate the tires and changed the oil a little over 2 weeks ago. Everything was normal so far. Yesterday I drove for about an hour, again everything was fine, but after stopping at a gas station and starting I have several indicator lights come on.
- Slip indicator, flashing
- TRAC OFF, constant
- ABS, flashing
- Electric power steering warning light, flashes but turns off after about 30 seconds.
I tried my OBD scanner with no luck, but figures since there was no Check Engine light.
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Car - 2011 Corolla S - Auto Transmission
My transmission seems to slip when it is shifting from 3rd into 4th. The second that it shifts into 3rd gear the rpm drops and shifts into 4th (This is when i have light to medium pressure on the pedal). If i push the pedal down 3/4 of the way once the transmission shifts into third then the rpm rise for at least 4-5 seconds (which seems more normal). In addition the shifts are a bit rough when the transmission is shifting up or down.I am looking for some insight before having a dealership jerk me around.
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My mechanic just informed me that because of my extreme drop, the drive shafts are at an angle that is stressing the final drive bearing on the transmission. I am leaking very small amount of fluid, he said it might not be a big deal.
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Is the range display on your corolla accurate? I had the Driver Information Center on my last car (2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD Crew Cab SLT) and it was dead on for MPG and Range display. I have a 2012 Corolla S, and I let it get low on gas for the first time since I bought it, I got it down to 18 miles to empty, which should be a half gallon of gas. when I filled it up, it only took 10.7 gallons, on a 13.2 gallon tank. that means there was 2.5 gallons, plus whatever fits in the filler tube, still in the tank, almost 90 extra Miles! Is it just my car?
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My indicator light came on. I put some air on the two front tires to make it 33/34. But the light is still on. I need to check the two rear tires?
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I just bought a used Toyota Corolla 2009 LE. I found that the indicators for Low engine oil pressure warning, Charging system warning, and Malfunction/Check Engine are on when the engine switch at "On" and goes off after engine is started. Is this normal or something is wrong with the car?
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla, and the door open indicator will intermittently turn on and off. I isolated the problem to the trunk, and unplugged the trunk latch assembly so that the trunk dome light doesn't drain my battery. Before I unplugged it, my key fob could open the trunk remotely. I can still manually open my trunk using a key or the lever next to the drivers seat. Is there something on the latch assembly that I can check if it's triggering?
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So I just bought new wheels, and had them put on. Went from stock 16's to 17's now. After I had them put on there was no issue.
Now after I was driving for about 30 mins, I noticed that the Low Tire Pressure Indicator started flashing for 20-30 seconds, then stayed solid.
And now the indicator has been there ever since. I've tried reinitializing the TPMS but it stlll didn't go away.
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I just recently had an oil change yesterday to be exact. I have never looked at my RPM when I drive, but at every oil changes the dealer always does the "Multi-point inspections", of which I do not like since the tech may ruin something that's not broken or does not put something back together correctly and may cause problems down the road. Anyways, I usually drive at least 80 on the highway. Yesterday I drove home, and I noticed that around 70-75, the RPM was at 3, and a bit over at 80. I've driven other cars and the RPM is never over 3.
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2009 corolla bought in early 08's so car just about 5 years old. This morning when I turned the heat on I heard a ticking noise. I'm assuming it is the from the heater blower motor? I think the part is behind the glove box. Where is the best place to get the part and where is the best place to find how to do the install?
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I've been having this issue with my 2009 Toyota Corolla for some time now. When I turn the car on, there is a noise coming from under the hood that sounds like a screeching/grinding noise. I have captured the noise in this video: [URL] ....
It happens most times I turn my car on in the morning, after it has been sitting off and untouched for the night. When I am turning the car on afterwards throughout the day, the noise is less likely to appear.
I recently took my car in and got the water pump and belt replaced, because a few months ago I was driving down the highway and I heard a similar noise coming from under the hood, and I opened the hood and red coolant liquid was splashed everywhere. I am not knowledgeable about cars at all, but the dealership replaced the water pump and the belt and that seemed to fix that issue, but the grinding noise upon ignition is still there.
I took it into the dealership, but they were not able to replicate the issue because it had not been the first time the car was turned on for the day, so there was no grinding noise. I would like to know if it is the water pump or belt, since those are still under a 2 year warranty with the dealership. Otherwise, I need to know what this is so I can get it fixed.
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I had a bud of mine make shims and gave me some negative camber in the back, and in the front, I maximized the camber bolt on my bc coils, this is per alignment stage. when I drive, the car feels a lil wobbly, is this normal? and will alignment fix the problem, or is this just part of the lowered/cambered life?
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My 09 corolla is running rough when idling in drive. It doesn't happen in park or neutral.
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Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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Anyways, I was driving to school today. Going about 45mph on on off ramp that curves slightly when my Slip indicator light turned on and blinked maybe 10 times or so. I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow as the manual suggest. My car only has 7,500 miles.
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I have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
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It was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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I have a 2009 Corolla (smaller 4 cyl) with auto trans. at 101K miles. I have a whine at hwy speed when the drive line is unloaded. What I mean unloaded is there is no acceleration or deceleration. The whine does not change pitch or level with speed.
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I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE. When the A/C is first turned on, a strange, musty smell comes from the air vents. As the system cools, the smell changes slightly but never goes away. It has done this since shortly after I bought the vehicle. Dealer has checked cabin air filter and says it is OK.
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