I have a 2010 Corolla. I am not sure what the problem is but the car shimmys and shakes when i slow down and almost stalls. Its not a brake issue but the brakes need to be replaced. The engine light comes on , stays on for 3 days then goes off then comes on again and there is sometimes a loss of power. I checked the coil packs but they are good . I'm wondering if it's a MAF sensor issue.
View 3 RepliesMy wife's Corolla has 71k on it. She recently had tires put on, and now she has a shimmy from about 30mph on up. It seems worst at 60-65. In all of my years, this is a classic example of a tire(s) out of balance.
I've taken it back to the shop that replaced the tires twice to make sure they're balanced, and then took it to a second shop to be certain that the first shop was on the up and up and actually balanced the tires. Everything checks out as being balanced.
Another possible cause could be a bad/worn out axle. The whole front suspension was rebuilt 9,000 miles ago. Everything checks out and there are no leaks anywhere. So that rules that this as well.
What else could it be? Is it possible that one (or more) of the new tires are out of round? Maybe a bent rim? But is seems awfully coincidental that this only started happening after the tires were replaced. What might be the cause of this mystery shimmy?
Recently, my 09 corolla S starts shaking during slow moving . As I accelerate more, it start vibrating at high frequency. And I can hear the sound "kin kin kni.." I checked the tires, they all look fine. It has 60k miles on.
View 2 RepliesWhile driving, idling, accelerating, or braking the engine of 2010 Toyota Corolla XRS (2.4L) will be running fine but then have a shudder, evening stalling at times.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 LE with auto trans. This happens when I start the car first time in the day. I shift it to drive And it takes maybe 1.5 seconds to catch before I can drive it. Is this normal. Would a fluid change fix it?
View 11 RepliesI have a 2012 Corolla CE (base model in Canada) that is completely stock. Took delivery in Dec 2011. Manual transmission. I am finding the car stalls from takeoff way too easily. Have had many manual trans cars before, and have experienced nothing like this.
Can be driving around town all day, no problem, then pulling away from a stop sign or light, and bam, I stall it. The clutch is a at a good peddle position - not too low, not too high.
Taking off on hills is a bit of a nightmare. Will stall easy there too. So I have to over-rev it to make sure I pull away from any stopped position. Passengers have noticed and said, "What are you doing! And I have to explain that if I don't over-rev from a takeoff, it may stall.
Case in point: at a car wash, aiming into the wheel slots to get into the track, at a very slow crawl in 1st and the car encountered resistance when the front tire rubbed the guide, and bam, it stalled.
After 7 months of driving this Corolla, I still can't get the hang of the clutch !! Does it sound like something is not set up correctly? What to check. Basically, it looks like I can't drive a standard.
So originally I was told it was my front brakes going bad, which was the case. To address the issue, I replaced the rotors and pads awhile back and the noise disappeared for a bit. Fast forward a month or so ago and I hear an on-and-off squeaking noise when the brakes are applied. It does not happen every time. Usually when I ease onto the brakes to a slow stop.
Figuring it could be my pads going bad for whatever reason, I decided to check my brake pads and rotors again. No odd signs of damage on the rotors and by the looks of it there was still plenty of pad left. I then sprayed some brake clean assuming it could be dust but there wasn't much.
I have not touched the drums yet but I'm thinking it could possibly be the drums or a bad bearing? The car is a 2012 with 38k miles which is the reason I'm doubtful of it being a bad wheel bearing. What could it be?
2002 SC430 with 50k miles. I have a set of aftermarket Dolce rims that are 18" with the stock size tires. I have the eccentric spacers on them as well. They have been mounted and balanced. I also have a set of Dunlop snow tires on my stock rims. Obviously I do a seasonal change over.
With either set of tires I am getting a steering wheel shake at 60-65 mph. By 80mph its gone and the car glides perfectly. There is no pulsation in the brake pedal and there is minimal wear on the pads. Below 60mph there is no issues as well.
Tires are wearing evenly. Some roads will make the movement worse, but it always goes away at around 80 mph.
Now both sets of tires were mounted and balanced by the same shop. I assume that could be it...there machine is faulty. But I would like some other possibilities before I try somewhere else.
My 2007 4 cyl. Malibu does a shimmy and shake when I step on the brakes. It seems to be worse when traveling at a faster rate of speed then when driving around town.
View 7 RepliesCar: 2004 Mini Cooper, 103k miles
Issue 1: car shake- At about 70 mph the whole car (pedals, steering wheel, seats) has a shimmy. Car has 4 new (balanced) tires and the front wheel bearings have been replaced. I've been told possibly motor mounts.
Issue 2: clunky sound- we have the requisite pockmarked roads. When the car is cold there is a sound of something loose in the back end. Nothing has been found to be loose but the sound is... annoying. I've checked the spare tire and it is secure. What that could be?
Issue 3: violent wheel shake- Not exactly the most replicate of issues. Started a year ago in June - three times total now. When traveling at higher speed (65 plus) for longer times (75 min or more) when I'm not accelerating the steering wheel grabs and pulls to the right. It almost feels like the brakes are grabbing on one side but there's no noticeable wear on the brake pads. It takes quite a bit of strength to hold the wheel straight and when I accelerate, it dissipates. What could that be?
For the past few months when the vehicle is cold (by "cold" I dont mean physically cold, just mean it has been sitting all night in my driveway and it's still 90+ degrees outside) and I start driving, I seem to have this shimmy or shake in the tires/steering/steering wheel. Once my car seems to "warm up" (driving a mile or two) it goes away and my car is extremely smooth.
Could it be tires (I've tried rotating)? Suspension? Wheel bearings? I'm lost for even imagining what it could be. I don't believe it is engine/trans related, as it idles/revs just fine and shift perfectly...
I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
View 1 RepliesSo I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
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I was wondering would the 2.4 2az-fe fit in to my 1.8 corolla I want to get a bare block or blown engine and build it up and turbo it and then put it into my corolla. Would the 2.4 bolt up in place of the 1.8 and if so where I can get a bare block or a complete engine?
View 10 Replies09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
The air coming out when the on the drivers side is significantly warmer than the air coming out on the passenger side when the A/C is cranked to four. At times it is borderline hot unless I kick back the setting to a two or three and then the sides even out a bit more, but it still seems like the right side of the car is much cooler.
View 9 RepliesWhere is the Air Filter? How do you access it? 2011 LE
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
View 14 RepliesQuick search found this post asking about changing the ECU, so it sounds like I'm not the only person to have heard this.
I've had my '09 Corolla for almost exactly 1 year and I've put 22k miles on it. All oil changes with Toyota elements and conventional oil at 1k miles and Mobil 1 5W-20 at 5, 10, 15, and 20k.
It's rattling like it isn't getting oil at start-up... intermittently. Sometimes it starts up just fine and others it rattles like it doesn't have oil for the first second or two. What's going on here?
I'm about ready to take it in to the dealer for an assessment, but with it being intermittent and all, I'm not expecting to be well-received. I know if I was looking at this as a used car and I heard what I've been hearing, I'd run.
Owner of a 2011 Corolla S and wanting to install a TRD exhaust.
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