Had a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
I have been noticing this Rotten egg/sulfur exhaust smell I have been getting for the past 2 months. So far it only happens when the engine hits 3000rpm or higher.
View 9 RepliesI noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.
I've owned this vehicle for the past year. This 2009 Corolla XRS manual has a very annoying steering rattle which took me the whole year to finally breakdown and diagnose. There are many forums stating this rattle is associated with the intermediate shaft assembly #2. I did end up replacing this part 45260-02110, hoping this would fix the rattling or knocking issue. It did not, but smoothness the steering has improved. I removed the upper portion of the intermediate shaft to pinpoint the sound. Originally I believed the noise may have been coming through the bulkhead from the intermediate shaft #1 or steering rack. I checked under the boot and everything was snug. Then I rattled the steering wheel around and this what I found.
It seems the noise is coming from the pinion where the power steering motor meets the steering column. You can hear the knocking noise with settle steering wheel movements. As I move faster, the knock turns into a rattle at higher speeds most likely vibration from the road. At this time, I do not want to disassemble the whole column just to see if I can adjust the motor height (if possible).
YouTube : [URL] ......
When your car is idling the rpms drop below 600rpm and you can feel like its going to stall but then goes normal. How do i fix this? Clean throttle body???
Also how hard is it to change the transmission fluid? Possible to do it at home?
Car - 2011 Corolla S - Auto Transmission
My transmission seems to slip when it is shifting from 3rd into 4th. The second that it shifts into 3rd gear the rpm drops and shifts into 4th (This is when i have light to medium pressure on the pedal). If i push the pedal down 3/4 of the way once the transmission shifts into third then the rpm rise for at least 4-5 seconds (which seems more normal). In addition the shifts are a bit rough when the transmission is shifting up or down.I am looking for some insight before having a dealership jerk me around.
2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed a/t
I have noticed that when my car shifts from second into third gear at around 50 km/hr that the rpm drops twice. It shifts (almost seemingly to a 2.5 gear) and the rpm drops and then a second later it's like it shifts again and the rpm drops again, is this torque converter lock up I am experiencing?
This also usually happens when I give it light throttle and not when I am heavily accelerating.
I just bought a 2013 Barcelona Red Corolla S in Manual transmission. Already, I've noticed how rough the transmission is when I shift. But it's only roughy when I first step on the clutch. But if I keep the clutch pedal down, all the gears shift smoothly, until I release the clutch and press it down again, then the first shift is really rough. Especially REVERSE, when I shift into reverse, it's so rough that it shakes the car. There's no grind, just very rough. It sounds like someone cocked a shotgun. Everything is smooth when driving tho, only happens at full stop.
View 14 RepliesI'm new to owning a Toyota. I just financed a 2010 black Toyota corolla S with 36 miles on it from a local dealership after i decided my last car was pretty much a money pit (2001 expedition)...blew the head gaskets, then after that was fixed developed a bad knock...anyhow i just decided i was overdue for a new car. Its a 5 speed manual and at highway speeds (65-70mph) I've noticed the rpms are bit high...like around 3grand. Is that normal? Just seemed really high to me, I really think this car would do great with a 6 speed. Also is the corolla governed? I was on a long stretch of road and i quickly got to 110ish with no sign of a governor kicking in...?
View 14 RepliesRan into a strange situation today. I actually noticed it last week but thought it was due to Seattle's recent surge of hot weather but guess not.
Anyway here are the symptoms of my 2010 Automatic Corolla LE. Upon turning on the car, the needles do their thing and rev all the way and then come back down, I have watched the RPM needle go to below 1 since I've owned the car. Now, it stays at around 1.5k to 2k RPM before going down to below 1.
While parked, or just when I'm at a light, the RPM needle fluctuates and flip flops between roughly 800 rpm to 1k rpm every few seconds. I can hear it happen sometimes.
Because it hasn't happened in 3 years until now, I'm assuming this is not normal. Or is it, and is just regular wear and tear?
The only thing I have in terms of engine mods is the Takeda SRI, and I've had that for about 2 years with no issues. I have a 400W amp powering a pair of focals up front and a 200W sub in the trunk. But I've noticed all these issues when I have the radio off. I've been keeping the AC on 2 for the past week now, could that have something to do with it?
I have a new to me 2009 matrix. I have noticed that the RPMs at around 2,200 when driving in town at 40 MPH then after a few minutes they drop to 1,600. I know I'm wasting gas running 2,200 RPM when driving at 40 MPH so I have started putting the car in neutral then quickly back into drive and the RPMs are at 1,600. I am also putting the car in neutral as I come to a red light or stop sign RPMs drop to around 900.
View 1 RepliesOn older cars I've owned, this has never happened. But ever since day 1, my car has been jolting everytime I shift from P to R. (Yes I'm backing out). Is this normal? If not, what should I do?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 Corolla S Automatic with approx. 22,000 miles. This winter it is not wanting to shift from 3rd to 4th gear when it's cold (35 degrees F or lower). After I've driven about 1/2 to 3/4 mile it will finally upshift. It did not do this last winter.
View 7 RepliesI think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla and anytime the car is idling and it drops below 1000 RPMS there is an extremely annoying ticking sound, it goes away when I put it in Neutral or the AC is on because it idles higher.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2010 corolla s and I started to notice that when I was at red lights with the car in drive my rpm's would drop to around 600 but it would only do it randomly, or so i thought until one day I was at a light and turned the ac on and my rpm's went back up to 800 so I turned it off and the rpm's dropped again, turned on the headlights and they went back up.
View 14 RepliesI've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
I currently own a Toyota Corolla VVTI 1.8 2009 GLI. I have been racing this car here at our auto drome for over a year. Last race it starting giving me real bad issues with shifting on the track. I can be a 5,900 RPM and shift to a higher gear and the car will choke and drown and it takes forever to recognize I'm accelerating. I know this is because of the computer and the electronic accelerator it comes with ( I can't remember it's name in English). My gas pedal is Denso and I understand there is an adaption that can be done to the cable to trick the computer.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 corolla S. sometimes when i shift from park to drive, it shifts smoothly and easily. most of the time when I am shifting from park to drive, it isn't smooth and doesn't shift easy. You can hear when you move it from park.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla LE. I've had these issues since buying the car last year. Issue #1 : when initially accelerating from a stop through 1st and 2nd gears, there's a slight vibration felt through the steering wheel and vehicle. If it's just a gentle acceleration it typically doesn't aggravate the issue as much as a quicker acceleration. Issue #2 : This car is very sensitive to varying types of road conditions. One patch of road can seem smooth as silk. Then another patch will feel rough and bumpy. The road appears to have no bumps or imperfections. I just put brand new tires on the other day, and its still doing this. And I feel all of the road imperfections the most through the steering wheel. I'll briefly take my hands off the steering wheel to see if I feel it in the cabin, and its not as bad as it is through the steering wheel.
View 9 Replies