Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Shift To Neutral While On Stop Or At Stoplight
Jul 8, 2014
Is it ok to put it on Neutral while I'm on stop, stop light, etc. while the engine is running? I have an Automatic....
View 8 RepliesIs it ok to put it on Neutral while I'm on stop, stop light, etc. while the engine is running? I have an Automatic....
View 8 RepliesI have an issue, and I think the answer is to drain and fill the transmission fluid a few times. I have an automatic 2010 S with 87,000 miles. I did a drain and fill on the transmission fluid about 15,000 miles ago - just a single drain and fill.
Here's the issue. Normal driving down the road, everything feels and shifts great. However, if I'm rolling along and then floor it wide open, usually the car will shift straight from overdrive to second gear. If the car downshifts only one gear, like from OD to 3, or 3 to 2, it's nice and smooth. However, in the situations described above, if I really nail the throttle, I get a hesitation and a very rough shift almost every time from OD to 2. That said, if I'm going down the highway and know I'm going to need second gear to pass someone and I shift it into second manually while accelerating, it's smooth with no issues.
I looked at the fluid the other day. It's a little over filled on the dipstick and it's a dark red. Not brown, but it's definitely overdue for some TLC. I'm just wondering if the symptoms are classic for two or three back-to-back fluid changes or if this is a sign of a larger issue.
just got my new 2012 Corolla S AUTOMATIC and want to see if this knob will fit my shifter. Any tips on removing the OEM auto shift knob? URL...
View 5 RepliesWoke up this morning and found a red light blinking by my shift knob. It was the passenger air bag. There was a lock on it. How come its doing that? My car is turned off. Could there be a problem with my air bag or was it just a code?
View 3 RepliesMy Toyota corolla 2011 started to shift a bit hard from first gear to second gear and sometimes it feels a bit like choking since November of last year after I started to commute about 38 miles to work. It happens when I am taking off and going straight and it doesn't happen when I am turning left or right. I have taken it to the dealer once, they reset the transmission computer, but it still felt the same and the way the other gears shift felt a bit differently.
I have seen a similar complaint about the same issue of gear shift from first to second in the NHTSA website and another forum with the same issue with a 2009 corolla with a seemingly loose motor mount.
I have an '09. Experience a shakiness/shaking when the car slows down to a stop? Like, you slow down to a stop, then the car starts to shake for a few seconds.
I feel like it doesn't happen to me in neutral, which makes me think it is the transmission. Sometimes I get a rough/shaky start as well....
My master window switch stop working. All of the other window switches work from the other doors. The driver side one will not work any of the windows. the power lock works but I cannot control any of the windows from the driver side.
View 1 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
Why does the automatic transmission stay in 3rd gear and not shift into overdrive until it gets warmed up? It is so annoying. This is the only car that has ever done this. Even the camry I don't think does this. Especially the fact that the rpms stay above 1k rpm until the engine is warmed up.
View 7 RepliesToday I decided to change my rotors and pads out.. Got everything back together and i believe car is in limp mode.. It wont shift out of 3rd.. Abs light on ,check engine light, traction control and stability control light on.. Also my speedometer doesn't work but my rpm"s do...hooked up scan tool and comes back as wheel speed sensors.. I never touched them or removed them....
View 3 RepliesSo originally I was told it was my front brakes going bad, which was the case. To address the issue, I replaced the rotors and pads awhile back and the noise disappeared for a bit. Fast forward a month or so ago and I hear an on-and-off squeaking noise when the brakes are applied. It does not happen every time. Usually when I ease onto the brakes to a slow stop.
Figuring it could be my pads going bad for whatever reason, I decided to check my brake pads and rotors again. No odd signs of damage on the rotors and by the looks of it there was still plenty of pad left. I then sprayed some brake clean assuming it could be dust but there wasn't much.
I have not touched the drums yet but I'm thinking it could possibly be the drums or a bad bearing? The car is a 2012 with 38k miles which is the reason I'm doubtful of it being a bad wheel bearing. What could it be?
I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE. I've noticed recently that the driver's seat moves either forwards or backwards when coming to a stop. The movement is not dramatic, but sure is noticeable and annoying. I took the car into the dealership, and they told me if this problem was not caused by the car itself and was occurring because of me, they will charge me around 125 dollars for a diagnosis charge. I took the car right out. Is it just normal wear? My solution was to remove the whole seat and see if there are any loose nuts. By the way, the seats are manual.
View 7 RepliesIt's a lite creaking clunk/shifting sound and only occurs in forward and when braking to a stop.It only makes the noise... when the brakes are initially applied.If the brakes maintain their engagement the noise no longer occurs.So... if the peddle is intermittently pressed when braking to a slow stop the slight shift/clunk noise will occur on each depression of the pedal.
The sound is located inside the engine compartment..guessing related to the brakes /or suspension components.If I were to take a stab at it's location in the bay.I would think it's loudest nearer the driver's side.I don't really hear it when I brake hard/stop abruptly.It's fairly audible within the cabin.I can't say it's a clunk... at least not fully yet but something has to be shifting slightly !? well maybe the front brake calipers/bolts are loose and the caliper is moving slightly... ? Or maybe a loose bolt on the suspension might be culprit.Could even be described similarly that of a dry coil-over seal compressing.but surely these struts/shocks can't have failed at only 30k ?I haven't pulled the front wheels off, yet, to inspect.
Very difficult for me to ascertain what might be moving/shifting while I'm operating the vehicle to make it occur.But I have to believe that fault lay with either the brakes or suspension.I'd also like to avoid the cost of a dealership diagnosis
some facts:
2010 LX
30K (well maintained/2nd Owner)
factory/everything original
Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
View 6 RepliesI have a '99 E350 Ford van, V10, with 300K that runs like a charm until I slow down to stop. It begins to surge which will stop when I shift to neutral. I went to the local parts store and put it on their code reader. It only read 'left bank lean'. Nothing else.
View 5 RepliesOn a manual car, I know it's not the best thing to go from neutral, completely bypass 1st gear, and shift to 2nd gear. As well as 3rd to 5th bypassing 4th. However, is it the same for downshifting into neutral or another gear? Will it hurt the transmission to go from 3rd to neutral (bypassing 1st and 2nd) when coming to a stop? I do know that shifting from 4th to 2nd gear and bypassing 3rd will harm your tranny. I just want to double check if I'm right...
View 24 RepliesI have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
View 1 RepliesSo I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?