I have an '09. Experience a shakiness/shaking when the car slows down to a stop? Like, you slow down to a stop, then the car starts to shake for a few seconds.
I feel like it doesn't happen to me in neutral, which makes me think it is the transmission. Sometimes I get a rough/shaky start as well....
Recently, my 09 corolla S starts shaking during slow moving . As I accelerate more, it start vibrating at high frequency. And I can hear the sound "kin kin kni.." I checked the tires, they all look fine. It has 60k miles on.
View 2 RepliesWhenever i brake i can hear a loud squeal, does that mean its time to change my brakes? Its crazy because i have a 2011 corolla but already have 27,000 miles on it. The squeal is louder when it rains....
View 5 RepliesMy car was shaking badly during idle and the Engine and VSC Off lights came on simultaneously. I took it to a local garage (not dealership) and they said that there is anti-freeze leaking into a cylinder. They said the only way to clean it out/fix it is to first remove the entire engine from the car so it could be worked on. It will cost a total of $2,700. My engine has 141,000 miles on it so they said this may be risky since it is so used. They said for $3,500 they could swap it with an engine that only has 31,000 miles on it (and a 6 month guarantee.) By numbers this sounds like a no brainer (I am assuming?) but I am curious if swapping the engines would be worth it seeing as the rest of the car has still traveled 141,000 miles. I have kept it in good condition and such though. I am also curious if the engine really does need to be removed to fix this sort of problem or it it could be done cheaper.
View 4 RepliesMy daughters '09 Corolla was shaking and misfiring occasionally. When she took it to the shop the mechanic had it for a couple days and after many attempts finally reproduced the issue. After several diagnostics tests they determined it to be a damaged cylinder. We had the option of
1. replacing the engine
2. retooling it
I called around to a couple other mechanics and they told me the same thing. One particular mechanic (no affiliated with Toyota) told us that he had heard this happening on both the Camry and the Corolla. Sound like a manufacturer issues if it's been seen frequently.
I just recently bought 2012 CorollaS. Great car inside and out with about 20k miles. I've noticed under acceleration and sudden braking a pop is coming from the passenger fender area. I've replaced the motor mount on that side thinking that might have been the issue, but it's still there. What are the torque specs for the motor mount. Maybe it's simply not torqued correctly.
View 2 RepliesI get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
I've noticed that in the past week or so, whenever I'm stuck in traffic for a few minutes, the engine temp will slowly rise. it gets really bad if traffic is crawling; the temp has reached that 2nd highest line before the red area.
Whenever I get going again and hit the gas, the temp drops. What it is?
Car is currently at 86k miles. I don't believe the water pump has been replaced yet.
Is it ok to put it on Neutral while I'm on stop, stop light, etc. while the engine is running? I have an Automatic....
View 8 RepliesMy master window switch stop working. All of the other window switches work from the other doors. The driver side one will not work any of the windows. the power lock works but I cannot control any of the windows from the driver side.
View 1 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
So originally I was told it was my front brakes going bad, which was the case. To address the issue, I replaced the rotors and pads awhile back and the noise disappeared for a bit. Fast forward a month or so ago and I hear an on-and-off squeaking noise when the brakes are applied. It does not happen every time. Usually when I ease onto the brakes to a slow stop.
Figuring it could be my pads going bad for whatever reason, I decided to check my brake pads and rotors again. No odd signs of damage on the rotors and by the looks of it there was still plenty of pad left. I then sprayed some brake clean assuming it could be dust but there wasn't much.
I have not touched the drums yet but I'm thinking it could possibly be the drums or a bad bearing? The car is a 2012 with 38k miles which is the reason I'm doubtful of it being a bad wheel bearing. What could it be?
I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
I own a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE. I've noticed recently that the driver's seat moves either forwards or backwards when coming to a stop. The movement is not dramatic, but sure is noticeable and annoying. I took the car into the dealership, and they told me if this problem was not caused by the car itself and was occurring because of me, they will charge me around 125 dollars for a diagnosis charge. I took the car right out. Is it just normal wear? My solution was to remove the whole seat and see if there are any loose nuts. By the way, the seats are manual.
View 7 RepliesIt's a lite creaking clunk/shifting sound and only occurs in forward and when braking to a stop.It only makes the noise... when the brakes are initially applied.If the brakes maintain their engagement the noise no longer occurs.So... if the peddle is intermittently pressed when braking to a slow stop the slight shift/clunk noise will occur on each depression of the pedal.
The sound is located inside the engine compartment..guessing related to the brakes /or suspension components.If I were to take a stab at it's location in the bay.I would think it's loudest nearer the driver's side.I don't really hear it when I brake hard/stop abruptly.It's fairly audible within the cabin.I can't say it's a clunk... at least not fully yet but something has to be shifting slightly !? well maybe the front brake calipers/bolts are loose and the caliper is moving slightly... ? Or maybe a loose bolt on the suspension might be culprit.Could even be described similarly that of a dry coil-over seal compressing.but surely these struts/shocks can't have failed at only 30k ?I haven't pulled the front wheels off, yet, to inspect.
Very difficult for me to ascertain what might be moving/shifting while I'm operating the vehicle to make it occur.But I have to believe that fault lay with either the brakes or suspension.I'd also like to avoid the cost of a dealership diagnosis
some facts:
2010 LX
30K (well maintained/2nd Owner)
factory/everything original
Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
View 6 RepliesI filled up my car three day ago and ever since then its been shaking when I brake and when I speed up and pretty much any time the car is moving. Why its doing this I just had it in the shop two weeks ago for a full check up. What the issue could be?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
View 1 RepliesSo I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?