Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Reset Elapsed Time Display?
Oct 1, 2012
I have searched and probably have just missed it but: I have a new 2012 Corolla S. The manual says " displays elapsed time since the engine was started or since the function was reset." Mine has never reset. Does this mean I switch between two different modes? If so, how?
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I noticed just recently my 15 IS350 F- Sport doesn't have elapsed time in the multi information display. Instead it has 2 different average fuel economy spots under Driver info 1.
I remember seeing it on a 14 IS base, is this something different 15 or F-sport? Is there a setting to get it back?
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Is it possible to reset or shut off the auto door locks?
When I use my use my factory remote to unlock the doors it usually locks itself within one second. If it don't time it right I'm pressing that button repeatedly trying to open the door. This is such a pain and it's annoying. Sometimes when I go to open the door so that I can exit the vehicle it locks itself midway me opening the door so that I'm stuck.
I called the dealer and shocker they want me to come in so that I can get screwed. There must be a way to just reset or reprogram this.
I have searched I have seen threads concerning the locking when you shift out of park. I am asking about just locking and unlocking the car.
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A squirrel chewed through some wires in my 2009 Toyota Corolla. My left headlight went dim and my airbag light came on, all within a matter of days. I had the wires repaired and the airbag light never went off. I waited for months until I found out that my airbags won't deploy if I am in an accident. I did some research and from what I gathered until the problem is fixed the light will remain on, (Problem cannot be reset).
I took it to the same guy who fixed the wires .The code that came up was a faulty module. He said since my bags did not deploy the module most likely tripped and he could try to reset it. He tried to do it manually and by the SRS reader with no luck and told me I should go to a shop with a more advanced reader so they could try to reset the module and if that doesn't work go to Toyota.
Can this problem be reset? If it is reset how do I know there still is not a problem that needed to be fixed?
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I have never had this problem with my 2010 Matrix until this week when I put the summer rims with transponders back on.
As per the manual, I turned the key to "on" and held the reset button. The pressure warning light is supposed to slowly flash 3 times to indicate that it has been reset, then go out. Holding the reset button has no effect this year and the pressure warning light just stays on.
The manual says to take it to a Toyota service centre if the reset procedure fails.
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My wife and I have a 2012 Corolla S built 05/12 with 14K miles. We traded in our '06 Corolla S with 190K and we loved that car. I performed all the maint on it and at 15K oil changes using Pennzoil Platinum and then Pennzoil Ultra, it never used a drop. On a trip over the weekend, the "maint reqd' lamp came at 4200 miles into the dealer performed oil change on the 2012. It came on steady while driving which I thought was odd. I tried to perform the reset as I did on the '06 to no avail. I watched a YouTube video and still no good.
I hold the Odometer post in and turn the key to the run position and wait. I am not getting the 5 dashes within the odometer display or any change. On the YouTube video I saw how the dashes do a countdown and then the lamp is extinguished. Mine is not doing that and I have continued to hold the Odo post in for over a minute and nothing changes. I have tried this over a half dozen tries with no success. I read something on-line that said if the previous maint codes are not properly cleared in the ECU, that this can happen? I do not have a scan tool, the car is under the full warranty and I know I can just take it in, but I was hoping to resolve this without doing that.
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Display is real light. How do you brighten it up. Basic toyota radio.
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My 10 months old 2011 Corolla started acting up. Two days ago I noticed the light on the clock is gone, so now I cannot see time at night or when driving in a parking garage.
Today in the morning I turned the headlights on and oops...the radio is playing fine but the display is black. If I want to see station #'s, I have to turn off the lights.
What's wrong with the clock light and radio display? Do I have to take to the dealer right away or can it wait until I go for an oil change in a week or so?
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I have a 2010 Corolla (purchased December of '09) and just recently the radio has started acting up. Since it got cold last year, it seems after long periods with the heater on, the radio unit display will go haywire. Today, the display did the same thing after my car sat in the sun for a couple of hours (and it was pretty warm inside). Obviously it doesn't make any sense to me, but I thought the display was trying to tell me that it's "too hot" Buttons on the unit will intermittently malfunction as well.
For example, hitting "2" will turn the unit off, pressing another preset number will switch the radio from FM to AM. Keeping the unit off while driving doesn't seem to fix the issue - but it does correct itself after a while.
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I just purchased a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE. The factory radio has a 'Phone' button on the right hand side of the radio. When I push the button, the display shows 'Unavailable.' What this button is for? With the Blu Logic kit, it has a separate phone button that mounts in the dash knockouts. Can the phone button on the radio be used instead?
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I've got a 2013 Corolla S with an upgraded sound system. Well when the vehicle is running and its in park or stopped and I turn the wheel, the headlights dim. My headlights also dim if I roll up more than one window at a time. I've been slowly trying to narrow down the issue but with no such luck. I have a 1600 watt amplifier and two, 800 peak watt subwoofers.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
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The odometer only displays partial pieces of the digital numbers. Can this be fixed? If so, how would you go about it?
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Not the usual. I stopped on my way home to get gas tonight when the gauge was showing one pip. Naturally it wasn't low, but I'm used to that.
The odd thing is that after I got in the car and turned it back on the gauge stayed at one pip and the fuel display on the multi-function display didn't reset.
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I recently purchased an '09 Prius. When driving, the MFD shows the trip info/MPG stats. If I want it to show audio or climate, I can press the button the dash and that info will be displayed. However, shortly thereafter (10-15 seconds maybe? maybe less?), the screen reverts to showing trip info/MPG stats.
I'd like to have my display remain on whatever I select - be in audio, climate, or trip info. How to make this happen?
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I would get "Tire Pressure Sensor Fault" on my display all the time. The problem occurred mostly on long trips, however, it would occur from time to time on shorter trips. I complained to the dealer about this every time I went in for an oil change. They could never find a problem and wanted me to bring it in when the fault was occurring. Of course these thing never happen when you're by a dealer. To my dealers credit they said they would fix the problem out of warranty if we can find it.
Well I found the problem. As strange as it sounds if I use the cigarette lighter with a power USB adapter to charge my phone or iPad I get the fault. If I use the 12V accessory port on the dash no fault.
Last weekend we drove to Nisswa MN & back (about 1,200 miles). To test the theory I only used the 12V accessory port and no fault occurred. Normally the fault would occur w/in 50 miles then just continue on being annoying the whole rest of the trip. I wish I would have found this out 57,000 miles ago. I use the adapter because the USB port on the dash will only charge my iPhone if the phone is off.
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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So I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
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My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
[URL] ....
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I was wondering would the 2.4 2az-fe fit in to my 1.8 corolla I want to get a bare block or blown engine and build it up and turbo it and then put it into my corolla. Would the 2.4 bolt up in place of the 1.8 and if so where I can get a bare block or a complete engine?
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09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
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