I went into a shop today and got my corolla checked out and they said that its shock absorbers and struts should be replaced because the oils were leaking and they told me the total estimate of my cost (parts+labors) are about 1300 dollars.
Like, do I need to buy all shock absorbers, struts and strut springs for each of the wheel? (front 2 + rear 2 = total of 4 of each) ??
I have a new Corolla and live in a city with really bad roads. My other vehicles I've had before this one have all taken a real sh#@ kicking and abuse as a result of the roads. I'm wondering if changing out the shocks and struts before they get too worn is good preventative maintenance to protect the overall integrity of the car? If this is something I should do, how many kilometres on the shocks / struts should I have before change out?
View 3 RepliesMy Axles started to make noises couple months ago While making Sharp turns. I bought some new axles for the front, but this will be my first time replacing CV Axles.
Any tips and or recommendations on what to do and not do, and tools to use? I watched a couple Youtube videos already. I plan on changing them out this weekend.
I'm looking at replacing the struts and shocks in my 04 Prius. Last time I replaced them with some cheap KYBs I found on auto parts warehouse. I was hoping for an improvement over the old worn out parts, but didn't feel an improvement. Well after 5+ years and who knows how many miles I figured it was time to replace them again.
View 7 RepliesLast Thursday Nov 22nd, I took my 2010 Corolla for a regular oil change service by an Toyota agent. The service representative recommended to have the brake fluid replace since it had already 39000 km since new. I agreed.
The same evening, I start hearing a strange high pitch noise from the front while braking light at low speed. It does not occur all the time. I did a search in this forum about the brake noise.
That strange high pitch noise could come from the ABS actuator when it activates or modulates at that light braking.
I did a visual check on the bleeding nipples of the brakes today. It seems that the two nipples for rear brake were untouched and this would mean they did not bleed the rear brakes and air could be trapped in the rear brake lines.
Will take the car back the Toyota service. As search from our forum, the cause for the abnormal modulating of the ABS actuator could be :
(a) a bad speed sensor or
(b) air trapped in the brake line.
Since it starts at the same day of replacing the brake fluid, the most likely cause is air trapped in the brake line.
Eventually, I'd like to replace the steel wheels on my Corolla LE (P195 65 R15) with ultra light wheels and low rolling resistance tires.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1986 Toyota Van. It has been outfitter as a small RV. I changed the front and rear Shock absorbers but it is still a very bumpy ride.
View 3 RepliesI recently replaced the struts and strut mounts (front and back) on my 1999 Subaru Outback (all wheel drive). Immediately after this was done, the car began making a grinding noise that comes from the front end when I either am coming to a stop (grinding begins happening at 5mph or so) or turning left (happens at any speed). However, if I am traveling along and, upon approaching a stop sign or left corner in the road, shift the car into neutral (it is an automatic transmission) the grinding does not occur. When I replaced the passenger-side strut I did not mark the position of the bolt that is responsible for adjusting the caliber. I did, however, do this for the drivers side.
I really have no clue what is going on here. I replaced the struts because the rear tires were wearing badly on the inside and I was told by a mechanic that the struts were bad (which they were). However, in an effort to save money I am unsure of how to proceed. If I go ahead and have the tires replaced and get a four-wheel alignment and it doesn't solve the issue, I will likely have to mess with the front end (or someone will anyway) which will then require another alignment.
Potholes are nasty where I live .It sounds like there's something in my trunk rolling back and fourth. When I accelerate it knocks back. When I brake it knocks forward. Just like rolling, it only happens once in each direction. Sort of sounds like the noise of bending/popping metal.I'm taking my car in later this week.
View 2 RepliesSo my right rear stock speaker in my 09 corolla has started to cut out. some days it works fine, others it's a mess. I've never cranked them so it shouldn't be damaged, in fact it sounds a lot like when a wire is a bit loose. How to fix it?
View 2 RepliesRecently purchased my first Toyota, a 2012 Corolla S with 76,000 miles on the ODO. I have a concern about a front end rumbling.
First, the problem...
This "rumble" (the best way I can describe it) starts becoming noticeable around 20-25 mph, depending on the condition of the road I'm on (it could be lower, but I'm in Michigan, all the roads are bad here). This rumble isn't a noise, but more of a low frequency sensation that can be felt in the car and through the steering wheel, and vibrates the rear view mirror. The rumble comes and goes, it isn't constant. Sort of like driving over a rumble strips put on roads before stop signs/intersections, it seems to have an oscillation to it. The rumble intensifies very little with speed. It doesn't seem to oscillate any faster or rumble much harder, it's just there.
Things I've ruled out...
Brakes. When I bought the car, the first thing I noticed was that the front brake rotors were slightly warped, so I installed new rotors and good pads. That didn't get rid of the problem, though I didn't really expect it to.
Tires. The previous owner had seriously over-inflated these tires. Once taken down to their proper pressure, they were noticeably cupped down the middle. These tires were also horribly noisy would not balance, so brand new tires went on (Michelins). The new tires greatly improved the ride, reduced noise, and got rid of a lot of other shakes and vibrations, but the "rumble" remains.
Wheel Bearings. I'm not 100% on this one, but as far as I can tell, it's not the wheel bearings. I've taken the car out on twisty roads and there is no change in the rumble through hard turns, nor any additional vibrations of any kind. Usually bad wheel bearings will exhibit some noise or vibration when being loaded in a turn, but not in this case, so I've ruled them out.
Things I'm not sure about...
CV Joints. I've never had a CV joint go bad or fail on me, so I am unfamiliar with the common signs and symptoms. I have inspected the boots, and they appear to be in good condition and crack free, though that doesn't mean a joint isn't failing. There's no clicking during slow sharp turns, but I think that would only present itself if an outer joint was failing. I'm going to get the car in the air this weekend to do a drain and fill on the tranny (the fluid is getting pretty dark, so I want to get some new in there).
I drove a Ford Focus for the past 10 years and a Ford Contour for 10 years before that, putting over 200,000 miles on both, and never experienced any sort of problem like this.
There Is a click in my front wheels that is audible as I slow down. What is going on. nothing else is wrong with the car. I have a 2013 corolla le....
View 3 RepliesSo, after washing my car, I noticed something orange/brown between my rear bumper and rear fender... it's rust. So, what should I do? I know it will only spread but since it's on the rear quaterpanel, it's not easily replaceable unless I cut the metal or sand it down and repaint it. Should I go to the dealer and see what they say?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 matrix 1.8 automatic with 103,000km on it. The brakes were making a noise so I pulled off the front wheels and inspected and cleaned the front brakes which were in great shape. I pulled the rear wheels and found that the outer disc pads were wearing on about a 30 degree angle. The inners were just fine! I've been doing brakes for over 40 years and have never seen this! Also, the rears don't work hard and should outlast the fronts by at least 2! I called Toyota Canada and they blew me off until I asked to talk to someone higher up! They are doing a technical review, but I believe they will tell me it's just my car! I think it's a design flaw!
View 13 RepliesOn my 2009 Matrix XR (2.4L), my right rear brake pad is wearing unevenly. I'm up to 87000 km (54000 miles). My first pad change was one year ago. I kept the pads and only noticed this time that the wear was at an angle on the outer pad, both times.
The inner pad is ok.
Multiple pictures below:
The other pictures:
So my girlfriend has an 09 S, and it started to get a moldy wet smell.... I started looking into it and cleaned the sunroof drains with a compressor and flow checked them, they are all dumping out about the amount of water we fed into them. I pulled up the carpet and I have maybe 3/4" standing water in the rear drivers side only. The carpet is dry in the other 3 corners. Also the seat foam in the rear is wet and starting to mold. Where the water is coming from?
View 14 RepliesMy rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
The rubber around the rear passenger door of my 09 SE seems to have shrunk and pulled away from the spline. If I push it back in one spot, it pulls away in another.
View 2 Replies2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
View 4 RepliesSpeaker brackets and bracket preparation.
View 2 RepliesSo last week I bought and installed a set of Megan EZ street coilovers for my 2011 corolla s. Everything was installed correctly and I lowered them as far as they would go without messing with the spring preload. They don't rub and I don't bottom out and everything was going fine until I pulled the wheels off to re plasti-dip them. At this point I noticed that the end link tab on my front right coil-over was bent. After doing some research I have found that this is a common problem when you lower a car and don't adjust the sway bar preload with adjustable end links. However I have looked high and low on the internet and cant find adjustable end links for a 2011 corolla. I can try and bend the tab back before it breaks or if it does break I can re-weld it back on but I don't want the problem to persist.
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