So my right rear stock speaker in my 09 corolla has started to cut out. some days it works fine, others it's a mess. I've never cranked them so it shouldn't be damaged, in fact it sounds a lot like when a wire is a bit loose. How to fix it?
View 2 RepliesSpeaker brackets and bracket preparation.
View 2 RepliesI have a buzzy, vibrating speaker in my right front door. Is the speaker itself shot or is it just loose? Or does the plastic door panel vibrate against the steel door. Placing my hand on the door doesn't seem to reduce noise ( 2010 Corolla )
View 2 RepliesWhat are the front speaker cutout dimensions. I think I read somewhere that it was 5 and 9/16" but how to verify this. I'm trying to put 6 3/4" speakers in there and was wondering if they will fit?
View 10 RepliesYesterday, I upgraded my door speakers to Fosgate PPS4-8's. They Fit beautifully, and I just have them in the original hole, standing on 3/4" spacers.
Removing my fosgate power 6.75's, I found that there were droplets of water all over the back of them. When you are driving in the rain, water comes in the drain right under the speaker.
The new 8's have baffles that I made out of cheap paint buckets from lowes until the real ones get here. I'm kinda unhappy with Toyota right now. I had assumed that because the stock speaker didn't have any protection, that it would be good.
The PPS4-8's are a midbass speaker, not a woofer. They are good for 80Hz to 5KHz. I went with them because I had a huge hole in my midrange that I couldn't correct because I had no midrange drivers. All 2-way's.
2013 Corolla L
Stock head unit non-touchscreen
Kenwood KAC 9105D Mono Amp 900w @ 2 ohms OR 500w @ 4ohms
Two 10" Kicker Solo Barics (old school round ; will be swapping soon)
They are Single Voice Coil 4 ohm (wired at a 2ohm load)
I wired the red hot wire (4 gauge) from the battery to the trunk. The ground wire is on the shock nut (4 gauge). The amp has power. The speakers are wired to a 2 ohm load. Now how do I get signal to the amp? This is my first car with a stock head unit. My amp has speaker level inputs and an auto detect feature so it turns on whenever signal comes through. So can I splice into a rear speaker and run the wire straight to the amp correct or would it be better to get a line converter and run RCA cables?
I am finding the physical location of the alarm speaker that beeps at the driver in the 2009 Corolla. I'd like to know because I want to rip the thing out. I don't need a device annoying me while I'm driving or just listening to music with the door open . I've partially taken apart my dash and could not locate the speaker.
View 10 RepliesI have a stock 2010 Corolla with the standard circle speakers in the front, 6X9s in the back. I bought some speakers that do not have the tweeters built into the woofer for the front speakers so where to put them, etc. The speakers that I bought are 5-1/4" two-way loudspeaker components (Infinity Kappas) [URL] can mount the woofers in the door no problem, and I can wire the crossovers that came with it... WHERE DO I PUT THE TWEETERS??? I have to drill in the metal of the door... and poke holes in the actual door panel cover for sound to come through it?
View 9 RepliesMy 2013 corrolla s speakers seem to be malfunctioning.
Symptoms:
50% of the time there is static coming from the front right speaker and all other speakers are mute.
40% of the time there is no sound.
10% of the time the speakers are fine.
Steps taken this far:
Cleaned the ground underneath the battery.
My dad who is a mechanic says possibly a stereo issue while I think it's a connectivity issue. How to diagnose the problem and salvage my speakers.
I had two 12" subs running in my 09 corolla. The front right door speaker and little tweeter speaker stopped working so I took the subs out. I figured the speaker was blown so I ordered new ones. When I installed the new door speakers, they didn't work.
I know for a fact it is not the speaker that's faulty because I tried them on the driver- side door and they worked. So my passenger side door and tweeter speakers aren't working. Do I need to order a new tweeter speaker as well? Like does the tweeter need to be working for the door speaker to work? And vice-versa?
2010 F150 XLT ... Front driver side door speaker goes from working fine, to crackling, to cutting out. It`s been doing this since the day I bought it. I've had a local audio company tell me they have seen a few new Ford with that problem.
View 7 RepliesPotholes are nasty where I live .It sounds like there's something in my trunk rolling back and fourth. When I accelerate it knocks back. When I brake it knocks forward. Just like rolling, it only happens once in each direction. Sort of sounds like the noise of bending/popping metal.I'm taking my car in later this week.
View 2 RepliesSo, after washing my car, I noticed something orange/brown between my rear bumper and rear fender... it's rust. So, what should I do? I know it will only spread but since it's on the rear quaterpanel, it's not easily replaceable unless I cut the metal or sand it down and repaint it. Should I go to the dealer and see what they say?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 matrix 1.8 automatic with 103,000km on it. The brakes were making a noise so I pulled off the front wheels and inspected and cleaned the front brakes which were in great shape. I pulled the rear wheels and found that the outer disc pads were wearing on about a 30 degree angle. The inners were just fine! I've been doing brakes for over 40 years and have never seen this! Also, the rears don't work hard and should outlast the fronts by at least 2! I called Toyota Canada and they blew me off until I asked to talk to someone higher up! They are doing a technical review, but I believe they will tell me it's just my car! I think it's a design flaw!
View 13 RepliesOn my 2009 Matrix XR (2.4L), my right rear brake pad is wearing unevenly. I'm up to 87000 km (54000 miles). My first pad change was one year ago. I kept the pads and only noticed this time that the wear was at an angle on the outer pad, both times.
The inner pad is ok.
Multiple pictures below:
The other pictures:
So my girlfriend has an 09 S, and it started to get a moldy wet smell.... I started looking into it and cleaned the sunroof drains with a compressor and flow checked them, they are all dumping out about the amount of water we fed into them. I pulled up the carpet and I have maybe 3/4" standing water in the rear drivers side only. The carpet is dry in the other 3 corners. Also the seat foam in the rear is wet and starting to mold. Where the water is coming from?
View 14 RepliesMy rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
The rubber around the rear passenger door of my 09 SE seems to have shrunk and pulled away from the spline. If I push it back in one spot, it pulls away in another.
View 2 Replies2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
View 4 RepliesSo I have the dreaded "rear defroster/radio static interference" issue on my 2011 Corolla LE. I turn on my radio and all is good. I turn on my rear window defroster and my FM reception goes away.I am pretty sure I did it to myself because it only started happening after I cleaned the rear window with some windshield washing fluid and a paper towel. I do have a knack for being a bit gruff on things and people unintentionally so I guess I am not surprised. I must have damaged the elements of the rear defroster in the process of cleaning the window. I should have left it dirty.
Anyway, I've read many posts detailing how breaks in the rear defroster grid can introduce EMI that effects the factory radio antennae in the rear window. Some of the answers I have seen suggested are:
1) replace the rear window (really?)
2) use a repair kit. URL...
3) completely replace the the rear defroster grid with an after market kit. URL...
4) replace the factory antennae with an after market unit that is not internally mounted
5) live with it
Are there any other options that I haven't found? If the root cause is the rear defroster, the repair kit seems like the way to go (even if it looks like an annoying task to perform upside down in such tight and cramped spaces). Might fix the defroster if its broken but will it resolve the EMI problem ...
My 2009 Toyota Corolla LE is squeaking. The noise is coming from its rear break -- driver side. It happens only at a low speed when pressing the brake half way to slow down the car until it stops. Only 60-70% of the time though that it has the noise and only when going slow in the traffic and hit the brake. It doesn't seem to squeak on the highway.
The car has about 40k miles. I've heard that the rear brakes suppose to last ~100k miles. My questions and concerns are:
1. Is it too soon to replace rear drum breaks?
2. How to check the rear break pads to see if I really need to change them?
3. Are they just dirty? How to clean the rear breaks?
4. Finally, if I really need to replace them, how much does it cost in general?
I wish they were dish brakes -- so much easier to replace them.