I have a 2010 Model S that has 38,000 miles on it. I am hearing a rattling in the front brakes when cruising along at almost all speeds. If i hold a little peddle pressure it goes away. Sounds like the pads are rattling to me. I am running the stock pads with about 45 to 50% remaining on them.
View 6 RepliesSo while I was driving I thought I heard a rattling. I checked under my front bumper and there is this piece dangling kind of on the driver's side in front of the radiator. What is this piece? It is initially connected towards the front bumper.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla S and the symptoms are as follows:
1. Normal forward driving, brakes work fine (and as expected without sound).
2. In reverse, when I apply the brakes I hear a click (clunk) sound from the front brakes. It only makes the sound when I'm going from moving to stopping (IE: I cant just keep pressing the brake once stopped to generate the noise). But if I let myself continue in reverse and press pedal again, it will make the same sound (very repeatable). I don't need to go forward to replicate the sound, I can just stay in reverse, stop (CLICK), continue in reverse, stop (CLICK), etc.
3. The it's noticable in the pedal. I can feel it on the brake with my foot when the noise happens.
4. It happens when I depress the brake pedal about 1/4 down, a gentle stop. And usually happens every time when I back out of my driveway or parking spot.
5. GF's sister's 2009 corolla CE does NOT make this noise in reverse.
6. 20,000 miles, Orig tires/brakes, didn't happen 4ish months ago.
I plan on putting winter tires on next month. Perhaps I'll take a look at the pads to make sure they aren't moving around, but wouldn't I also hear the noise in forward motion? Or when I switch from forward to reverse?
My e150 front end shakes at cruising speeds. Has brand new tires and the best balance wheels are up front. I got the van on jack stands check for play on the tie rods and ball joints it all seem to be good and tight.
The only I did notice was that the both wheels move quite a bit from side to side and the culprit is the gear box. I removed the drag link from the Pittman arm at gear box and then i was able to move the Pittman arm at the back and fourth about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch its not a bad Pittman arm cause the movements comes from the gear box itself.
Can that back and fourth movement be adjust by simply adjusting the Allen bolt and nut on the top side of the gear box?
Quick search found this post asking about changing the ECU, so it sounds like I'm not the only person to have heard this.
I've had my '09 Corolla for almost exactly 1 year and I've put 22k miles on it. All oil changes with Toyota elements and conventional oil at 1k miles and Mobil 1 5W-20 at 5, 10, 15, and 20k.
It's rattling like it isn't getting oil at start-up... intermittently. Sometimes it starts up just fine and others it rattles like it doesn't have oil for the first second or two. What's going on here?
I'm about ready to take it in to the dealer for an assessment, but with it being intermittent and all, I'm not expecting to be well-received. I know if I was looking at this as a used car and I heard what I've been hearing, I'd run.
I replaced the PCV valve (with OEM). The old one looked dirty, but still rattled when I shake it. However, now with the engine at idle, I can hear a metallic clicking coming from the area of the new PCV valve. It's difficult to verify, because it's behind the intake manifold, but since I just replaced the PCV valve, what else could it be? The clicking also seems to sync up with the engine cycling..
My corolla has been burning 2 quarts of oil every 5000 miles since 80k miles. It's at 100k now. I guess worst case is there's a broken valve seal and I'm getting high pressure in the crank case. I also heard it could be a vacuum leak. I'm going to try and check the vacuum pressure, but is there anything else that I should be looking for?
I rigged a gauge from a brake bleeder pump into a tee in the vacuum booster line and it ran pretty steady at 20Hg. Accelerated a little and it hit 25Hg and came back down. It flutters a little at around 1 Hg, but I'm wondering if my vacuum rig is a bit leaky itself.
Here's a recording of the clicking: [URL] ....
I had some issues over the past couple of days with my 2009 Corolla EPS. It would occasionally go off, after all the indicator lights would flash momentarily. This only happens at low speeds, under 10 mph, and as soon as I got it up to speed the power steering would come back on. (note just about 140,000 miles)
I took my car into the dealer and he told me my battery needed to be replaced, its the original, and my rear hub and bearing assembly is corroded and there is electrical damage back there.
Did my first repair this summer, the alternator and water pump. But I didn't think the rear hub and bearing would have electrical connections or sensors effecting the EPS. I'm sure there is rust, but would that cause EPS issues? Could there be electrical damage? I also tested my battery yesterday and got 12.5 - 12.6 V with if off and 13.6 -13.7 on, but my battery is old.
I am going to pick it up from the dealer and just try changing the battery first. The total repair they suggested would cost $1875.00, which is crazy to me? Could there be a bigger issue though, and could the EPS just cut out on me while I'm on the highway or something?
I have a 09 Corolla with low mileage (33,000 miles). It drove without a problem until recently.
About 1 month ago I started noticing some rattling noise at high speed (>50 mph) coming from the engine compartment on the passenger side. the noise seems to get more frequent the faster i go and disappears when the speed drops below 40 mph. It is not loud but still noticeable. The car itself does not shake.
I drove through a snow storm before the noise happened. not sure if this has any thing to do with it.
I have just purchased my first Toyota. Formally a Subaru man. It is a 2009 corolla XLE with 95,000 miles. It is a one owner car in excellent condition and I have all the service records from the Toyota dealer where the work was done.
When I start the car most of the time there is a rattling sound that comes from the engine compartment and lasts just a couple of seconds. In my manual there is something in the ABS section about noises from the ABS system. Could the ABS system be the cause of this noise?
I just recently purchased a 2009 Corolla S Automatic. It still runs fine, but my concern is that when I start it that there is a squeaking or screeching like a belt is not tight enough or is too tight in the engine somewhere. That and there is a rattling that sounds like a bunch of marbles bouncing off of metal or as if there is something loose that is metal and just making vibrations from the way the engine is running. It drives fine, I have no other problems. I still have amazing gas mileage and everything else. What could be the issue and could I fix it from home?
View 1 RepliesEvery now and then I have rattling noise when trying to start on a cold start in the morning. Mainly just sounds like a dry start. Battery is good, oil is full (high mileage Valvoline 5W20). Ive tried 5W-30 and it didn't do anything, just made the mpgs about 1 less.
Ive had the car fixed for the main TSB issue with the starter/camshaft so that is not it, which caused a full on grinding noise.
Everyday commuter car, use 87 chevron gas always, and I just used Lucas gas additive the last two fill ups (used normally every 1k miles) and still getting the noise every now and then in the morning. Are there any better injector cleaners out there?
Should I get the fuel injectors fully 3step cleaned? when talking to the service rep at brake-masters, they stated that I should use 91 premium gas to work with dry starts to burn off extra carbon buildup. Wasn't sure if that was a good idea for a 09 corolla S?
93k miles, new spark plugs last week, oil changes every 3k.
Fiance's 09 Corolla S just started having a rattle/knock noise this evening. car has 123k. It's clearly an engine internal sound. I believe it is coming from the cylinder head. She called me when it started making the noise, she shut it off and has only been ran enough to get it on and off the trailer.
Not sure if it's a broken valve spring or valve. or the timing chain guides? It threw a CEL light.
I ran the code on my scanner and it came back with: P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
Got a rattle from the car, I think it's the catalytic converter heat shield. Looking for any pictures of what it looks like? I don't know if it is a full cover on our Toyota's, or a half cover. I will post a picture of what mine looks like now that it is rattling later today. Hoping it's an easy fix.
2009 Corolla CE 1.8L.
I currently own a 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with around 30,000 miles. Recently, I noticed a bit of rattling from the passenger's head rest. At first, there was rattling when the head rest was up, but went away when I pushed it back down. Now, the rattling appeared again even with the headrest all the way down. I attempted to switch the actual head rest from the driver seat to the passenger seat, but the same problem is there. I'm guessing it's the actual seat which is holding the rods to the head rest? I also tapped both seats and the noise from inside the passenger seat sounded a lot loose.
View 3 Replies2011 Corolla S, the RPM's drop by couple hundred suddenly when easing off the gas pedal. This is more noticeable at speeds of about 60-70mph. I got it checked out under warranty and the dealer said it is normal as the car shifting out of overdrive.
They may be correct in this as it is the speed around which the overdrive comes into play but it just does not feel right, although it may be related to the overdrive, they should have a fix so that the car slows down gradually, not suddenly.
I have read other TS-B updates which resolves the problem of fluctuating RPM's at steady speeds or the RPM not dropping when letting off the gas pedal, however my issue is slightly different in that the RPM's drop suddenly and then jumps back up again. I wonder if that same TS-B flash will resolve my issue.
So, I've been noticing that my passenger side window in my Corolla is being a little weird. Whenever someone opens or closes the door while the window is closed, the window makes a rattling sound. Also, when I play music in the car, the window sounds like it's shaking even though it is fully up. The other windows don't do this and it will stop if I press the button to raise the window. Another thing it does is that when the window is almost fully down, it makes a thump or a clicking noising and then it goes down. So could it be a loose window or a bad motor? Also, any way to fix this myself other than taking out the door panel?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Matrix S. There is a rattling noise coming from my engine compartment whenever i drive 60+ mph. It sounds like it's metal on metal. Nothing is loose inside. I took it to the dealer and they told me the water pump bearings were bad and replaced my whole water pump. That didn't resolve my problem. The rattling is still there.
View 2 RepliesI purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
So when i hit ~80km/h (50 miles) some weird extremely small vibration is coming on. You cannot feel it from anywhere but when u touch something, like handbrake then its there. Tho the sound is kinda loud. So the pattern is like, 0.3 seconds it is vibrating and 0.3 is quiet, it does not matter on which road i drive.
This problem cannot be caused by wheels (got other alloys and same problem), also already got alignment and have balanced my wheels. So, what to do?
Recently blew the belt that runs the water pump, etc while on a vacation. Had to leave the car at a small mechanic in Winthrop, WA. He replaced the Water pump which had gone bad and the belt that shredded. The car ran beautifully for a week. Now there is this constant rattling sound coming from the water pump area. the link is a video with the sound. The sound will quicken as you accelerate. At cold start up it is usually not present then starts a couple of minutes in.
[URL] .....
2010 Matrix XR, car drives great except while driving off of parking lot going slow over bumps I hear a bit of rattling noise coming what seems like the driver side dash area... it almost feels like its coming perhaps from the steering wheel but the steering wheel feels very tight with no play at all.. Other than that it's all good can not hear anything wrong driving on a smooth road or a highway...
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