Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Rattling After Water Pump Replacement - Sound Quicken When Accelerate
Sep 18, 2014
Recently blew the belt that runs the water pump, etc while on a vacation. Had to leave the car at a small mechanic in Winthrop, WA. He replaced the Water pump which had gone bad and the belt that shredded. The car ran beautifully for a week. Now there is this constant rattling sound coming from the water pump area. the link is a video with the sound. The sound will quicken as you accelerate. At cold start up it is usually not present then starts a couple of minutes in.
[URL] .....
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Recently blew the belt that runs the water pump, etc while on a vacation. Had to leave the car at a small mechanic in Winthrop, WA. He replaced the Water pump which had gone bad and the belt that shredded. The car ran beautifully for a week. Now there is this constant rattling sound coming from the water pump area. I attached a video with the sound. The sound will quicken as you accelerate. At cold start up it is usually not present then starts a couple of minutes in.
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I replaced the PCV valve (with OEM). The old one looked dirty, but still rattled when I shake it. However, now with the engine at idle, I can hear a metallic clicking coming from the area of the new PCV valve. It's difficult to verify, because it's behind the intake manifold, but since I just replaced the PCV valve, what else could it be? The clicking also seems to sync up with the engine cycling..
My corolla has been burning 2 quarts of oil every 5000 miles since 80k miles. It's at 100k now. I guess worst case is there's a broken valve seal and I'm getting high pressure in the crank case. I also heard it could be a vacuum leak. I'm going to try and check the vacuum pressure, but is there anything else that I should be looking for?
I rigged a gauge from a brake bleeder pump into a tee in the vacuum booster line and it ran pretty steady at 20Hg. Accelerated a little and it hit 25Hg and came back down. It flutters a little at around 1 Hg, but I'm wondering if my vacuum rig is a bit leaky itself.
Here's a recording of the clicking: [URL] ....
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So recently every time I start up the Rolla I get a chirping noise real quick and everything seems to run alright. I had my neighbor, a GM mechanic just look quick; and on the belt connected to the water pump looked like it was unusually worn on spots of it.
The car has about 27XXX miles on it ('10 Rolla S).
Going for an oil change next week, going to try and find out what's going on with this thing. I've seen other threads talking about the water pump causing the symptoms I've described at around the same amount of miles. Seems like a common part to fail on the car.
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...... 2010 Corolla LE 1.8L ...... View the video I uploaded ....... The noise is seems to be getting worse. My first thought is the bearings in the water pump may have failed. I'm also thinking that there isn't adequate lubrication near the gear assembly or the belt. Could there be a problem with the tension in the belt?
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2009 Toyota Corolla base model
We took our vehicle to our local Goodyear because we had been hearing a noise and they discovered that the water pump had actually dislodged itself from the engine and was only being held on by the belt itself.
Also when I said the brakes weren't working they would work but since they were getting coolant on them they were making a horrible grinding noise. I took the vehicle to brake check to ensure the brakes were good because we have lifetime warranty and they assured us the brakes were fine.
It wasn't until we noticed the water pump that the Goodyear tech also showed us that the coolant had made it's way onto our braking system on the passenger side.
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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I have just purchased my first Toyota. Formally a Subaru man. It is a 2009 corolla XLE with 95,000 miles. It is a one owner car in excellent condition and I have all the service records from the Toyota dealer where the work was done.
When I start the car most of the time there is a rattling sound that comes from the engine compartment and lasts just a couple of seconds. In my manual there is something in the ABS section about noises from the ABS system. Could the ABS system be the cause of this noise?
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So while I was driving I thought I heard a rattling. I checked under my front bumper and there is this piece dangling kind of on the driver's side in front of the radiator. What is this piece? It is initially connected towards the front bumper.
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So, I've been noticing that my passenger side window in my Corolla is being a little weird. Whenever someone opens or closes the door while the window is closed, the window makes a rattling sound. Also, when I play music in the car, the window sounds like it's shaking even though it is fully up. The other windows don't do this and it will stop if I press the button to raise the window. Another thing it does is that when the window is almost fully down, it makes a thump or a clicking noising and then it goes down. So could it be a loose window or a bad motor? Also, any way to fix this myself other than taking out the door panel?
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My 2010 Corolla LE with 1.8L engine with auto transmission has about 37,400 miles on it. Ever since I bought it with 7k miles I notice a slight knock/ping sound when I accelerate up to 40 mph. The car is certified up to 100k.
Also, on cold starts recently, it seems to make a loud noise. Hard to describe but it's almost like something is grinding for a second or two. This does not seem to happen all the time.
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My daughter has a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the "service engine" light came on. The diagnosis was that the water pump needed to be replaced.
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My sister's 2010 corolla with 80k has a rattling. She sent a video. The oil level is fine. She had a belt squeak previously that she had fixed. My concern is a bad water pump. Is there a service bulletin on this that we can confirm?
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Quick search found this post asking about changing the ECU, so it sounds like I'm not the only person to have heard this.
I've had my '09 Corolla for almost exactly 1 year and I've put 22k miles on it. All oil changes with Toyota elements and conventional oil at 1k miles and Mobil 1 5W-20 at 5, 10, 15, and 20k.
It's rattling like it isn't getting oil at start-up... intermittently. Sometimes it starts up just fine and others it rattles like it doesn't have oil for the first second or two. What's going on here?
I'm about ready to take it in to the dealer for an assessment, but with it being intermittent and all, I'm not expecting to be well-received. I know if I was looking at this as a used car and I heard what I've been hearing, I'd run.
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Today on the freeway going about 60 mph, my 2009 Corolla started to jerk and feel like it was going to stop. It lasted for a few minutes and then on my way home, there was no problem. I was told that this could be from not driving on the freeway enough? Do I need to have it looked at?
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So ever since I bought my car in April, I hear this noise when I accelerate. It only happens when I first start the car. Its a grinding light noise but you can definitely hear it when you are in the car. I only hear it when after I start the car, go reverse, and right after I step on the gas on drive. Today I took it in for my 10k service and told the Assistant Service Manager about it. We went and took my car for a test drive and now we also hear the noise right after we he start the car then reverse.
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I have a 09 Corolla with low mileage (33,000 miles). It drove without a problem until recently.
About 1 month ago I started noticing some rattling noise at high speed (>50 mph) coming from the engine compartment on the passenger side. the noise seems to get more frequent the faster i go and disappears when the speed drops below 40 mph. It is not loud but still noticeable. The car itself does not shake.
I drove through a snow storm before the noise happened. not sure if this has any thing to do with it.
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I just recently purchased a 2009 Corolla S Automatic. It still runs fine, but my concern is that when I start it that there is a squeaking or screeching like a belt is not tight enough or is too tight in the engine somewhere. That and there is a rattling that sounds like a bunch of marbles bouncing off of metal or as if there is something loose that is metal and just making vibrations from the way the engine is running. It drives fine, I have no other problems. I still have amazing gas mileage and everything else. What could be the issue and could I fix it from home?
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Every now and then I have rattling noise when trying to start on a cold start in the morning. Mainly just sounds like a dry start. Battery is good, oil is full (high mileage Valvoline 5W20). Ive tried 5W-30 and it didn't do anything, just made the mpgs about 1 less.
Ive had the car fixed for the main TSB issue with the starter/camshaft so that is not it, which caused a full on grinding noise.
Everyday commuter car, use 87 chevron gas always, and I just used Lucas gas additive the last two fill ups (used normally every 1k miles) and still getting the noise every now and then in the morning. Are there any better injector cleaners out there?
Should I get the fuel injectors fully 3step cleaned? when talking to the service rep at brake-masters, they stated that I should use 91 premium gas to work with dry starts to burn off extra carbon buildup. Wasn't sure if that was a good idea for a 09 corolla S?
93k miles, new spark plugs last week, oil changes every 3k.
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I have a 2010 Model S that has 38,000 miles on it. I am hearing a rattling in the front brakes when cruising along at almost all speeds. If i hold a little peddle pressure it goes away. Sounds like the pads are rattling to me. I am running the stock pads with about 45 to 50% remaining on them.
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Fiance's 09 Corolla S just started having a rattle/knock noise this evening. car has 123k. It's clearly an engine internal sound. I believe it is coming from the cylinder head. She called me when it started making the noise, she shut it off and has only been ran enough to get it on and off the trailer.
Not sure if it's a broken valve spring or valve. or the timing chain guides? It threw a CEL light.
I ran the code on my scanner and it came back with: P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
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