Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: RPM Drops Suddenly When Decelerating At Speeds Of About 60 - 70 MPH
Jun 13, 2013
2011 Corolla S, the RPM's drop by couple hundred suddenly when easing off the gas pedal. This is more noticeable at speeds of about 60-70mph. I got it checked out under warranty and the dealer said it is normal as the car shifting out of overdrive.
They may be correct in this as it is the speed around which the overdrive comes into play but it just does not feel right, although it may be related to the overdrive, they should have a fix so that the car slows down gradually, not suddenly.
I have read other TS-B updates which resolves the problem of fluctuating RPM's at steady speeds or the RPM not dropping when letting off the gas pedal, however my issue is slightly different in that the RPM's drop suddenly and then jumps back up again. I wonder if that same TS-B flash will resolve my issue.
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed a/t
I have noticed that when my car shifts from second into third gear at around 50 km/hr that the rpm drops twice. It shifts (almost seemingly to a 2.5 gear) and the rpm drops and then a second later it's like it shifts again and the rpm drops again, is this torque converter lock up I am experiencing?
This also usually happens when I give it light throttle and not when I am heavily accelerating.
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I have a 2013 Corolla S. I notice when I let the car idle for like 5-10 minutes the Average mpg readout drops to around 22 mpg(in city while driving it is usually at 25). Why is this?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with automatic transmission. Today it started giving a push or a jerk when the 1st gear drops, so from 1st going to 2nd it pushes or jerks the car ahead. Not sure what is wrong with it, it has 56000 miles on it.
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I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
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Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
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I had some issues over the past couple of days with my 2009 Corolla EPS. It would occasionally go off, after all the indicator lights would flash momentarily. This only happens at low speeds, under 10 mph, and as soon as I got it up to speed the power steering would come back on. (note just about 140,000 miles)
I took my car into the dealer and he told me my battery needed to be replaced, its the original, and my rear hub and bearing assembly is corroded and there is electrical damage back there.
Did my first repair this summer, the alternator and water pump. But I didn't think the rear hub and bearing would have electrical connections or sensors effecting the EPS. I'm sure there is rust, but would that cause EPS issues? Could there be electrical damage? I also tested my battery yesterday and got 12.5 - 12.6 V with if off and 13.6 -13.7 on, but my battery is old.
I am going to pick it up from the dealer and just try changing the battery first. The total repair they suggested would cost $1875.00, which is crazy to me? Could there be a bigger issue though, and could the EPS just cut out on me while I'm on the highway or something?
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Was driving the other day then suddenly fog lights stopped working, I changed the bulbs still wont work, so I checked the fuses to make sure all was ok, and everything was perfect. And now I am completely lost, have no clue what to check to make them working..
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So when i hit ~80km/h (50 miles) some weird extremely small vibration is coming on. You cannot feel it from anywhere but when u touch something, like handbrake then its there. Tho the sound is kinda loud. So the pattern is like, 0.3 seconds it is vibrating and 0.3 is quiet, it does not matter on which road i drive.
This problem cannot be caused by wheels (got other alloys and same problem), also already got alignment and have balanced my wheels. So, what to do?
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I have a 2010 Model S that has 38,000 miles on it. I am hearing a rattling in the front brakes when cruising along at almost all speeds. If i hold a little peddle pressure it goes away. Sounds like the pads are rattling to me. I am running the stock pads with about 45 to 50% remaining on them.
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I'm having a problem with my remote lock/alarm system in my 2010 Corolla LE. The driver door suddenly stopped locking and unlocking with the remote. The other 3 doors work fine, but the driver door won't work. When I lock the driver door with the key and press the lock button, everything locks and unlocks like normal. If I wait awhile and try to unlock the doors again, the driver door lock again won't work.
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Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
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I've owned this vehicle for the past year. This 2009 Corolla XRS manual has a very annoying steering rattle which took me the whole year to finally breakdown and diagnose. There are many forums stating this rattle is associated with the intermediate shaft assembly #2. I did end up replacing this part 45260-02110, hoping this would fix the rattling or knocking issue. It did not, but smoothness the steering has improved. I removed the upper portion of the intermediate shaft to pinpoint the sound. Originally I believed the noise may have been coming through the bulkhead from the intermediate shaft #1 or steering rack. I checked under the boot and everything was snug. Then I rattled the steering wheel around and this what I found.
It seems the noise is coming from the pinion where the power steering motor meets the steering column. You can hear the knocking noise with settle steering wheel movements. As I move faster, the knock turns into a rattle at higher speeds most likely vibration from the road. At this time, I do not want to disassemble the whole column just to see if I can adjust the motor height (if possible).
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OK so here's the deal. Driving around town @ lower speeds I've yet to have this problem. When driving at freeway speeds seems like between 1/4 tank & reserve all of a sudden the power just drops off . I mean like the ignition has been turned off. No throttle response .. nothing..... just begins coasting & dropping speed. When throttle is depressed... totally dead. This lasts for about 5-10 seconds then after coasting & looking where to pull off the highway all of a sudden the engine kicks back in like nothing ever happened. Where to look for Jetta MK 4 18T Fuel supply problem??
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How to diagnose the engine issue I am having. The gx currently has 96k miles and I am planning on doing a timing belt and water pump replacement as I plan on keeping it as long as possible.
One new issue that crept up is that when going down the hill the car engine sounds like it's actually accelerating and the RPM drops to as if it was idling.
Normally when going down the hill it usually stays around 1 or 2 on the rpm, it's noticeably different and just started happening recently. What might be the cause of this?
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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So I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
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My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
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I was wondering would the 2.4 2az-fe fit in to my 1.8 corolla I want to get a bare block or blown engine and build it up and turbo it and then put it into my corolla. Would the 2.4 bolt up in place of the 1.8 and if so where I can get a bare block or a complete engine?
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09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
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The air coming out when the on the drivers side is significantly warmer than the air coming out on the passenger side when the A/C is cranked to four. At times it is borderline hot unless I kick back the setting to a two or three and then the sides even out a bit more, but it still seems like the right side of the car is much cooler.
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