Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: No Throttle Response After Being Rear Ended
May 10, 2016
2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
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So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
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Is there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
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Having problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
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I've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
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2010 f150 supercrew fx4
While driving down the highway yesterday at about 65mph I went to change lanes. As I was changing lanes I gave it a little gas. About half way through the lane change truck jerked like I had just been rear ended. I immediately checked my mirrors to see if I changed lanes in front of some body. No one was around. Truck still ran the same. Everything I'be read seems like similar thing happen to others at slower speed.
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Potholes are nasty where I live .It sounds like there's something in my trunk rolling back and fourth. When I accelerate it knocks back. When I brake it knocks forward. Just like rolling, it only happens once in each direction. Sort of sounds like the noise of bending/popping metal.I'm taking my car in later this week.
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So my right rear stock speaker in my 09 corolla has started to cut out. some days it works fine, others it's a mess. I've never cranked them so it shouldn't be damaged, in fact it sounds a lot like when a wire is a bit loose. How to fix it?
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So, after washing my car, I noticed something orange/brown between my rear bumper and rear fender... it's rust. So, what should I do? I know it will only spread but since it's on the rear quaterpanel, it's not easily replaceable unless I cut the metal or sand it down and repaint it. Should I go to the dealer and see what they say?
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I have a 2009 matrix 1.8 automatic with 103,000km on it. The brakes were making a noise so I pulled off the front wheels and inspected and cleaned the front brakes which were in great shape. I pulled the rear wheels and found that the outer disc pads were wearing on about a 30 degree angle. The inners were just fine! I've been doing brakes for over 40 years and have never seen this! Also, the rears don't work hard and should outlast the fronts by at least 2! I called Toyota Canada and they blew me off until I asked to talk to someone higher up! They are doing a technical review, but I believe they will tell me it's just my car! I think it's a design flaw!
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On my 2009 Matrix XR (2.4L), my right rear brake pad is wearing unevenly. I'm up to 87000 km (54000 miles). My first pad change was one year ago. I kept the pads and only noticed this time that the wear was at an angle on the outer pad, both times.
The inner pad is ok.
Multiple pictures below:
The other pictures:
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So my girlfriend has an 09 S, and it started to get a moldy wet smell.... I started looking into it and cleaned the sunroof drains with a compressor and flow checked them, they are all dumping out about the amount of water we fed into them. I pulled up the carpet and I have maybe 3/4" standing water in the rear drivers side only. The carpet is dry in the other 3 corners. Also the seat foam in the rear is wet and starting to mold. Where the water is coming from?
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My rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
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The rubber around the rear passenger door of my 09 SE seems to have shrunk and pulled away from the spline. If I push it back in one spot, it pulls away in another.
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So I have the dreaded "rear defroster/radio static interference" issue on my 2011 Corolla LE. I turn on my radio and all is good. I turn on my rear window defroster and my FM reception goes away.I am pretty sure I did it to myself because it only started happening after I cleaned the rear window with some windshield washing fluid and a paper towel. I do have a knack for being a bit gruff on things and people unintentionally so I guess I am not surprised. I must have damaged the elements of the rear defroster in the process of cleaning the window. I should have left it dirty.
Anyway, I've read many posts detailing how breaks in the rear defroster grid can introduce EMI that effects the factory radio antennae in the rear window. Some of the answers I have seen suggested are:
1) replace the rear window (really?)
2) use a repair kit. URL...
3) completely replace the the rear defroster grid with an after market kit. URL...
4) replace the factory antennae with an after market unit that is not internally mounted
5) live with it
Are there any other options that I haven't found? If the root cause is the rear defroster, the repair kit seems like the way to go (even if it looks like an annoying task to perform upside down in such tight and cramped spaces). Might fix the defroster if its broken but will it resolve the EMI problem ...
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My 2009 Toyota Corolla LE is squeaking. The noise is coming from its rear break -- driver side. It happens only at a low speed when pressing the brake half way to slow down the car until it stops. Only 60-70% of the time though that it has the noise and only when going slow in the traffic and hit the brake. It doesn't seem to squeak on the highway.
The car has about 40k miles. I've heard that the rear brakes suppose to last ~100k miles. My questions and concerns are:
1. Is it too soon to replace rear drum breaks?
2. How to check the rear break pads to see if I really need to change them?
3. Are they just dirty? How to clean the rear breaks?
4. Finally, if I really need to replace them, how much does it cost in general?
I wish they were dish brakes -- so much easier to replace them.
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My engine light just went on and the fault codes are:
P0138 -PowerTrain (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0607 - PowerTrain Control Module Performance
I have just bought Denso 234-4305 Rear Sensor but I was wondering if there are any guides to show where it's located?
The only guides I found is for the 9th Gen Corolla.
The Car has 88k miles on it so I guess it's outside the emissions warranty. Thus what is the price of a new ECU just in case that's the problem?
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I broke one of my rear studs off today when I was putting my wheel back on. The rest seem okay, but I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace them? Is it as simple as hammering the broken one out and replacing it with a new one? I don't have to take the drum off, right?
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I just washed my corolla today and I noticed a long black sticky piece of sealant laying on my windshield. So I looked around the edges of my rear windshield and to my surprised there were couple of cracks on the sealant. Not just cracked seal but also an inch to 3 inches of sealant are gone.
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what size bolts are needed for the rear license plate?
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I am headed to the dealer under warranty but still want to know. I have at least one oil leak and maybe several on my 2010 s. Passenger side rear of engine. Maybe minor seep at the chain tensioner but I think I have several below that. What are the two sensors below the tensioner? Are there leak issues on the engine? Car has 50K and is under certified warranty.
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