My master window switch stop working. All of the other window switches work from the other doors. The driver side one will not work any of the windows. the power lock works but I cannot control any of the windows from the driver side.
View 1 RepliesI have a toyota corolla 2011 and I dont remember when window auto down stopped working or if it worked at all. I never disconnected the battery, not sure about if the dealer has done it after I took it for service before. Or maybe the auto down is fake?
View 5 RepliesI haven't been on in a while due to my laptop breaking on me well recently i purchased the V3 triton switchback from vleds as well as just red V3 triton leds. After the install i blew my flasher fuse which i replaced then when i attempted it again i must have blown something else because my corner lights no longer go on and when i turn my lights on i no longer get the sign on the cluster notifying me that they are on. I have removed the lights and the issue was i did not order ck socket adapter. So what i have done so far is checked all fuses and i have nothing burned under the driver side and under the hood. I must have looked over everything 10 times checked all fuses with a test light and i don't see anything with DRL or Corner lights labeled anywhere on the fuse panels. Is it possible i burned the module DRL module?
View 9 RepliesJust noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
View 6 RepliesI have a 06 GX470, and the lf window master switch has stopped working. The only items it will still control are the window lock, and the up and down movement of the lf window. It will not operate the other three Windows or the door locks. I did try to re-sync all of the Windows first. I know the master switch is good, since I was able to swap it with a known good one. I checked all fuses and they are also good. I removed of door panel and was going to start checking grounds and continuity between the harness from the lf master switch to the junction block.
View 6 RepliesSo all but the driver door window switch stopped working including the lock and unlock buttons. The windows still go up and down but from the other door switches.
My best guess is the master switch is gone bad. And at over 65k I'm sure it's no longer under warranty. I called the local dealer today and quoted me over $500 and would not give me the part number.
After parking the car for 15mins and turned the car back on, decided to try again. Everything works now I haven't taken anything apart yet but now I'm curious what caused it to temporarily fail.
After 30 mins of the car being on I decided to roll the windows up but the switch was dead again.
I'm having some issues with my sunroof on my 2010 Corolla: the switch seems to be unresponsive, but if I push the button several times, the sunroof will open up (this happens with both the slide and the tilt function).
View 2 RepliesSubject Vehicle: 2013 Corolla LE
I have a 1993 Base, a 2006 LE, a 2007 LE, and a 2013 LE. All of them Except the 2013 have automatic headlights. That is: you get into the car, start the engine, and drive away with the headlights on. Then later when you turn off the key and get out of the car the headlights are either automatically off or go off soon after.
But on the 2013 the headlights just stay on or off unless manually switched on or off with the stalk switch. Am I missing something here? Why would the 2013 LE Not have this very convenient feature when even my 1993 Base model with zero options Does have it?
I've noticed since I bought my car that when I drive the passenger side window tends to creep down and I have to hit the switch to bring it back up. It doesn't come down a lot but enough to hear the wind whistle through it. I'm not sure if this is motor or regulator issue or what.
View 9 RepliesHow to check on air leaks. I am having air leaks on the driver window. All of the weatherstripping seems to be intact and I can't seem to locate the noise. What are some things I can do to check?
View 6 RepliesMy rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
I've got a 2013 Corolla S with an upgraded sound system. Well when the vehicle is running and its in park or stopped and I turn the wheel, the headlights dim. My headlights also dim if I roll up more than one window at a time. I've been slowly trying to narrow down the issue but with no such luck. I have a 1600 watt amplifier and two, 800 peak watt subwoofers.
View 4 RepliesI have a question about my 2009 Toyota corolla. About a week ago it was pretty cold out and when I started my car and I heard a grinding type noise for just a split second and it was over. It never did it again after that. Well I went to start my car yesterday and it will not start or even turn over. The dash doesn't light up, the head lights, radio, windows are door locks will not work. The battery was checked and it's fine. My husband is thinking that it maybe the ignition switch. Does this sound right?
View 3 RepliesSo, I've been noticing that my passenger side window in my Corolla is being a little weird. Whenever someone opens or closes the door while the window is closed, the window makes a rattling sound. Also, when I play music in the car, the window sounds like it's shaking even though it is fully up. The other windows don't do this and it will stop if I press the button to raise the window. Another thing it does is that when the window is almost fully down, it makes a thump or a clicking noising and then it goes down. So could it be a loose window or a bad motor? Also, any way to fix this myself other than taking out the door panel?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla LE. Sometimes I feel like the driver side mirror has a slight vibration when I drive.. Also, if I drive over a rough tar road with ripples on the road, there seems to be the driver side window vibration also..
View 1 RepliesI have an '09. Experience a shakiness/shaking when the car slows down to a stop? Like, you slow down to a stop, then the car starts to shake for a few seconds.
I feel like it doesn't happen to me in neutral, which makes me think it is the transmission. Sometimes I get a rough/shaky start as well....
Is it ok to put it on Neutral while I'm on stop, stop light, etc. while the engine is running? I have an Automatic....
View 8 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
So originally I was told it was my front brakes going bad, which was the case. To address the issue, I replaced the rotors and pads awhile back and the noise disappeared for a bit. Fast forward a month or so ago and I hear an on-and-off squeaking noise when the brakes are applied. It does not happen every time. Usually when I ease onto the brakes to a slow stop.
Figuring it could be my pads going bad for whatever reason, I decided to check my brake pads and rotors again. No odd signs of damage on the rotors and by the looks of it there was still plenty of pad left. I then sprayed some brake clean assuming it could be dust but there wasn't much.
I have not touched the drums yet but I'm thinking it could possibly be the drums or a bad bearing? The car is a 2012 with 38k miles which is the reason I'm doubtful of it being a bad wheel bearing. What could it be?
I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.