Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Maint Reqd Lamp Came On Steady While Driving - Reset?
Jun 5, 2013
My wife and I have a 2012 Corolla S built 05/12 with 14K miles. We traded in our '06 Corolla S with 190K and we loved that car. I performed all the maint on it and at 15K oil changes using Pennzoil Platinum and then Pennzoil Ultra, it never used a drop. On a trip over the weekend, the "maint reqd' lamp came at 4200 miles into the dealer performed oil change on the 2012. It came on steady while driving which I thought was odd. I tried to perform the reset as I did on the '06 to no avail. I watched a YouTube video and still no good.
I hold the Odometer post in and turn the key to the run position and wait. I am not getting the 5 dashes within the odometer display or any change. On the YouTube video I saw how the dashes do a countdown and then the lamp is extinguished. Mine is not doing that and I have continued to hold the Odo post in for over a minute and nothing changes. I have tried this over a half dozen tries with no success. I read something on-line that said if the previous maint codes are not properly cleared in the ECU, that this can happen? I do not have a scan tool, the car is under the full warranty and I know I can just take it in, but I was hoping to resolve this without doing that.
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I've put about 5000 miles on it since I picked it up from the dealership (used, so there are about 21,000 miles on it).
My Maint Reqd light has been blinking for about a week, and meant to take it in this weekend to get an oil change but had no time. This morning on the highway (I commute ~45 miles each way every day) the light comes on and stays on (which makes sense if the dealership resets the maintenance data when I bought it).
Normally I'd take it in for an oil change this afternoon, but that may not be possible. I know the light illuminates based on a mileage meter and not an engine condition (ie low oil).
It may be the case that I can't take it in until this weekend. I'm just wondering if it's wise to keep driving it this week knowing I need an oil change and that I'm likely to put ~450 miles on it. I checked my oil this morning and it doesn't seem terribly low.
Should I top up the oil to keep it humming until the weekend? Should I just drive, since driving it for a week won't be an issue?
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A couple of times this week when I started my 2014 Prius v - 3 I heard a deep and the MAINT REQD dash light came on for a few seconds then went out. I've got 14800 miles on it and it had the suggest oil change done at 10000 miles. How to find out what maintenance it is saying is required?
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This light started coming on only yesterday, right after I finished installing the elearnaid replacement Optima battery. It now happens every time I start the car, along with all the other lights that normally come on, and disappearing after a few seconds, like the other dash lights that are supposed to come on when you start the car.
I did have to replace my radio presets, the time on the clock, and once again remove the reverse beep, which I did with no difficulty, but this "MAINT REQD" light still comes on.
This light should not come on since I had the oil changed last month and until yesterday's 12v Optima replacement, the light indeed did not come on.
I tried a fix, which did not work:
1. the one given in my 2006 owner's manual, on p.130,
Replaced a 12v battery? How to get rid of this light?
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Today (1/11/2015), after I had just finished filling up the tank, I opened the car door and since the key was in the ignition the buzzer was sounding. However after 2 or 3 "beeps" it stopped and the door was still open. When I got home and pulled in the garage, I shut the car off, left the keys in the ignition and opened the door and there was no "beep," also the door ajar lamp on the instrument panel was out. I opened the trunk and the light came, then I opened passenger side door and the light came on. Does that mean that the switch on the driver's side door is bad? If so, is that a fire hazard?
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I own a 2012 Toyota Camry LE (TCLE), and recently I've noticed that the "instrument cluster" shows "MAINT REQD" warning light on for more than a few seconds when I start the car. All other warning lights do turn off while the "MAINT REQD" is still ON for a few seconds more than I usually remember. This car has about 25K miles, and I bought it with 19K miles. Should I take it to a dealer for a check up? By the way, I was waiting until the end of February to take the car for a oil change, but I am now concerned with this stupid WARNING light
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I have a 2009 Matrix. The AC just stopped working as we were going down the road. The voltage at the compressor was 2.6 volts. the same voltage at the HVAC module I don't hear the compressor kick on at all, engine speed doesn't change when the AC button is toggled on and off.
The AC light stays on steady not blinking. I am pretty sure that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
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I have searched and probably have just missed it but: I have a new 2012 Corolla S. The manual says " displays elapsed time since the engine was started or since the function was reset." Mine has never reset. Does this mean I switch between two different modes? If so, how?
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Is it possible to reset or shut off the auto door locks?
When I use my use my factory remote to unlock the doors it usually locks itself within one second. If it don't time it right I'm pressing that button repeatedly trying to open the door. This is such a pain and it's annoying. Sometimes when I go to open the door so that I can exit the vehicle it locks itself midway me opening the door so that I'm stuck.
I called the dealer and shocker they want me to come in so that I can get screwed. There must be a way to just reset or reprogram this.
I have searched I have seen threads concerning the locking when you shift out of park. I am asking about just locking and unlocking the car.
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A squirrel chewed through some wires in my 2009 Toyota Corolla. My left headlight went dim and my airbag light came on, all within a matter of days. I had the wires repaired and the airbag light never went off. I waited for months until I found out that my airbags won't deploy if I am in an accident. I did some research and from what I gathered until the problem is fixed the light will remain on, (Problem cannot be reset).
I took it to the same guy who fixed the wires .The code that came up was a faulty module. He said since my bags did not deploy the module most likely tripped and he could try to reset it. He tried to do it manually and by the SRS reader with no luck and told me I should go to a shop with a more advanced reader so they could try to reset the module and if that doesn't work go to Toyota.
Can this problem be reset? If it is reset how do I know there still is not a problem that needed to be fixed?
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I have never had this problem with my 2010 Matrix until this week when I put the summer rims with transponders back on.
As per the manual, I turned the key to "on" and held the reset button. The pressure warning light is supposed to slowly flash 3 times to indicate that it has been reset, then go out. Holding the reset button has no effect this year and the pressure warning light just stays on.
The manual says to take it to a Toyota service centre if the reset procedure fails.
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I will most likely be driving my Corolla to Colorado this summer and I plan on attempting several 14'ers. I know you can almost drive to the top of Mt Evans which is over 14k. Driving that high in Corolla, how was the drive up?
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I've read countless threads on coilovers and springs, and I see that a majority of them are addressing ride height.
I currently have the stock springs on my 2010 corolla LE and I would like to make it drive more like a Lexus. I am aware that it is not a Lexus and will never be one unless I trade it in for one.
But I'm hoping I can do something about my perceived rough ride. I've compared it to a 2006 Camry, and even the Camry rides smoother.
I have my eyes on a set of BC coilovers. Will I be able to achieve a smoother (softer) ride than stock...
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I have a new to me 2009 matrix. I have noticed that the RPMs at around 2,200 when driving in town at 40 MPH then after a few minutes they drop to 1,600. I know I'm wasting gas running 2,200 RPM when driving at 40 MPH so I have started putting the car in neutral then quickly back into drive and the RPMs are at 1,600. I am also putting the car in neutral as I come to a red light or stop sign RPMs drop to around 900.
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I took out coilovers back to stock struts and springs. before this, driving sound was normal. I know after the swap, alignment will off for sure. this morning when I first took it out for a drive after swap, I hear a humming sound while driving. note this tho, when I had my coilovers on, my tires were cambered about 2.5-3 degrees, not really that much. but now they are back to normal vertical stock angle. note: the inner tire wear, is not really that much off from the outer, but slightly noticeable.
1. do you think the noise is coming from cupping of tire from being cambered pressure to normal? like the tire shape is outta wack?
2. since the car is not bouncing up and down, its not a strut issue?
3. it cant be wheel bearing cos it was perfect before this morning when I first drove it.
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I installed a K&N CAI intake about a month ago; the 69-8757TTK, which is supposed to be designed for our cars. And I noticed that there was noticeable engine knock when driving uphill. My father thinks it might be due to the extra air coming in and not enough fuel. Could this be the issue? Is there anyway to adjust or fix this? Not really looking to do a tune since the car's a 4 speed auto and it only has 130HP so it won't even be worth the money. In reality if I can't find a fix I'll just put the stock intake back on.
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Was driving the other day then suddenly fog lights stopped working, I changed the bulbs still wont work, so I checked the fuses to make sure all was ok, and everything was perfect. And now I am completely lost, have no clue what to check to make them working..
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I recently took my 2010 Corolla CE to my dealership and had some minor work done on the brakes (rust cap cleaned, calipers machined as well)
The new problem now is that I hear a ticking sound while driving as if something is touching.. The Technician at Toyota said there was still 70% on the pads and 80% left on the rear shoes.. Encountered a ticking sound while driving along?
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I have a 2009 toyota matrix that as over 140,00 miles when I drive down the road the front passenger side bounces up and down. There is no difference in speed from 25 all the way up to 60 plus.
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The fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
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I just bought a 09 Corolla S a month ago. In the last few days I've been hearing a popping/knocking noise while I'm driving. It sounds like it is coming from one of the wheels but which one. It usually happens once I decelerate or driving at low speeds. If I brake the noise will stop. The rhythm of the noise doesn't seem to be consistent with speed I'm driving. It happens more often on bumpy roads but it still happens on smooth roads. I'm wondering what are the possible problems that are could cause this?
I don't know if this would relate to the sounds I mentioned but when I bought this car it had brake problems. It would grind pretty loud. The dealership ended up replacing new rear drums. So when I drove it home everything sounded good for about a week. The grinding noise came back and after I sprayed some brake cleaner it went away for a few days. I'm assuming thats what the dealership did to hide the noise. I went ahead and changed the front pads and that worked for a week or so...but the grinding noise is back. I was about to change my rotors this weekend when the popping/knocking sound I mentioned above started happening.
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