Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Low Idle And Vibration While Stopped At A Light
Jun 17, 2013
My wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
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Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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I have a 2009 Matrix. The AC just stopped working as we were going down the road. The voltage at the compressor was 2.6 volts. the same voltage at the HVAC module I don't hear the compressor kick on at all, engine speed doesn't change when the AC button is toggled on and off.
The AC light stays on steady not blinking. I am pretty sure that there is enough refrigerant in the system.
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Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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The fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
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I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
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2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
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Recently purchased my first Toyota, a 2012 Corolla S with 76,000 miles on the ODO. I have a concern about a front end rumbling.
First, the problem...
This "rumble" (the best way I can describe it) starts becoming noticeable around 20-25 mph, depending on the condition of the road I'm on (it could be lower, but I'm in Michigan, all the roads are bad here). This rumble isn't a noise, but more of a low frequency sensation that can be felt in the car and through the steering wheel, and vibrates the rear view mirror. The rumble comes and goes, it isn't constant. Sort of like driving over a rumble strips put on roads before stop signs/intersections, it seems to have an oscillation to it. The rumble intensifies very little with speed. It doesn't seem to oscillate any faster or rumble much harder, it's just there.
Things I've ruled out...
Brakes. When I bought the car, the first thing I noticed was that the front brake rotors were slightly warped, so I installed new rotors and good pads. That didn't get rid of the problem, though I didn't really expect it to.
Tires. The previous owner had seriously over-inflated these tires. Once taken down to their proper pressure, they were noticeably cupped down the middle. These tires were also horribly noisy would not balance, so brand new tires went on (Michelins). The new tires greatly improved the ride, reduced noise, and got rid of a lot of other shakes and vibrations, but the "rumble" remains.
Wheel Bearings. I'm not 100% on this one, but as far as I can tell, it's not the wheel bearings. I've taken the car out on twisty roads and there is no change in the rumble through hard turns, nor any additional vibrations of any kind. Usually bad wheel bearings will exhibit some noise or vibration when being loaded in a turn, but not in this case, so I've ruled them out.
Things I'm not sure about...
CV Joints. I've never had a CV joint go bad or fail on me, so I am unfamiliar with the common signs and symptoms. I have inspected the boots, and they appear to be in good condition and crack free, though that doesn't mean a joint isn't failing. There's no clicking during slow sharp turns, but I think that would only present itself if an outer joint was failing. I'm going to get the car in the air this weekend to do a drain and fill on the tranny (the fluid is getting pretty dark, so I want to get some new in there).
I drove a Ford Focus for the past 10 years and a Ford Contour for 10 years before that, putting over 200,000 miles on both, and never experienced any sort of problem like this.
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I remove the radio from my Matrix. When reinstalling the trim, I damaged the left have heater control (the one which controls where the air comes out). I put that back in, now the fan doesn't work. All the push butting on the AC controls light up when I want them to, but the fan doesn't work.
I don't have a repair manual or wiring diagram, but I figure it has to be something really simple. I have looked at the fuses (I think).
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Recently, my 09 corolla S starts shaking during slow moving . As I accelerate more, it start vibrating at high frequency. And I can hear the sound "kin kin kni.." I checked the tires, they all look fine. It has 60k miles on.
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Was driving the other day then suddenly fog lights stopped working, I changed the bulbs still wont work, so I checked the fuses to make sure all was ok, and everything was perfect. And now I am completely lost, have no clue what to check to make them working..
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year: 2009
miles: 80160
This usually happens when im on the highway i guess because im usually going over 50mph I hear like a loud humming and vibration and if I turn the steering wheel left or right it becomes unbearable, like deafening. What may cause this, im thinking maybe i need an alignment or wheel balancing or just new suspension.
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2010 Corolla 1.8 automatic. Accelerating at highway speed (2800-3200) rpm a low frequency shudder/vibration is felt in the floorboards. Goes away of you let up off of gas pedal. No vibration at idle, runs fine all other times. Most noticeable when accelerating under load (ie going uphill) and at highway speed. Trans mount visually intact. Ditto engine mounts. Cv axles less than 1 year old no rattle upon shaking.
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I am getting a engine vibration on a new 2011 corolla LE. The vibration is right between 2000-3000 RPM. Also the muffler kinda sounds louder at that RPM. I have only 300 miles on this car ...
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So when i hit ~80km/h (50 miles) some weird extremely small vibration is coming on. You cannot feel it from anywhere but when u touch something, like handbrake then its there. Tho the sound is kinda loud. So the pattern is like, 0.3 seconds it is vibrating and 0.3 is quiet, it does not matter on which road i drive.
This problem cannot be caused by wheels (got other alloys and same problem), also already got alignment and have balanced my wheels. So, what to do?
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This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
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2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
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I have really driven my Corolla until the stereo system stopped working a month old. The audio just stopped during one rainy day when I was playing a CD.
The stereo unit appears still functioning and I was able to take the stereo out and un-plug/re-plug in the 4 wires connectors in the back. A couple of times, by doing this, the audio came back for 10~15 minutes and then went silent after that.
So, what could be the cause of the issues? Could it be there some short in the wiring? How would trouble shoot this issue further?
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I, like many, have had issues with my aux jack and decided to have it replaced with an aftermarket device. My aftermarket device plugs into the rear of the radio in place of the OEM aux harness. After removed the old OEM aux harness and installed the new one and put everything back together i had a problem.
The new AUX also comes with a USB slot as well and it all works properly, thats not the issue.
The issue is that my keyless remote has intermittently stopped working. I got out to lock the doors with the remote and nothing happened. I had no time to fiddle with it so i locked the doors via the keyhole and left it. The next time to went to my car, i tried to use the keyless and voila it worked! it locked AND unlocked. I was releived that it worked. Unfortunately once i drove and parked and tried to lock again - it didnt work . Needless to say it doesn't always work, ususally if i lock the doors with the key and come back more then 30 minutes, it unlocks keylessly.
The remote LED light turns on when i press any of the buttons so i know the battery is fine. I already opened the remote and confirmed the contacts are working properly. The only thing i haven't tried to do is reprogram the keyless remote (which i dont think is necessary).
Random symptoms - there are 3 circular dials (fan control, fan speed, temperature control) in the centre console. Originally ONLY the center dials LED lights would turn on. Now randomly the 3rd dials LED lights turn on again. I wanna start checking fuses but would like to know where to start.
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I had two 12" subs running in my 09 corolla. The front right door speaker and little tweeter speaker stopped working so I took the subs out. I figured the speaker was blown so I ordered new ones. When I installed the new door speakers, they didn't work.
I know for a fact it is not the speaker that's faulty because I tried them on the driver- side door and they worked. So my passenger side door and tweeter speakers aren't working. Do I need to order a new tweeter speaker as well? Like does the tweeter need to be working for the door speaker to work? And vice-versa?
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