My Corolla sometimes cranks longer than it should when starting. This happens if the car has been sitting for a few hours. Although it doesn't always happen.
It happens when the tank is full and empty. The weather has ranged from 100 down to 60 degrees. The car has 20k miles on it and has had regular dealer servicing. What's going on with it? Otherwise it runs fine
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2005 Ex with 6.0. It has been bulletproofed. But has had a long crank after sitting for over 5 hours. I was starting to think glowplugs but no codes, Then thinking FICM, nope voltage has always been good. After I run the truck for a few miles if I kill it. It would crank right up. No issues. Only happened after it sat for awhile. I knew it had to do with HPOP system since it took about 5 to 8 seconds to show over 500PSI.
The passenger side does not have a leak since the oil is to the top of ICP sensor. When I was going to remove it. So I took off the drivers side. I inspected the dummy plug. No issues there "they are the 12mm with teflon plugs" I inspected the stand pipe. No issues there either. I inspected the small test port on the top of the rail. No issues there either. So I decided to air test it. So I used my auto-ingenuity to close the IPR valve after I heard all the oil blow out.
Then after sitting with 120 psi of air for about 10 minutes. I hear a bubbling sound coming from the Drivers side Rail. It was a plug I have never seen mentioned here. It is at the back of the rail. I removed it and sure enough the oring is split in 2. I went to ford and picked up a new Oring it was like $4. It also looks like its a different material. I am still in the process of putting the truck back together so i have not started it back up. But I am pretty sure this was my problem.
Corolla 2009.. battery died.. jump started it.. alarm went off on my car since i accidentally put my car key in the other car and tried to start the car. Got the alarm to stop after i disconnected the jumper cables.. Now my car won't start after 20 minutes of keeping on the other car with jumper cables.. Light work but stereo and dashboards light wont come up either.. The keyless entry locks the car but does not unlocks it.. When I put my key in the ignition, the security light stops flashing..
My headlights and interiors light work.. The engine is cranking when i try to start it, but wont go fully through..
Model: corolla
Year: 2009
2010 Corolla set for a week I went to use it and it would not start it would turn over but not start. I don't think it was the battery because it would chug for a few seconds miss/hiccup then die after trying 8 times it finally started you could smell fuel and the rpms where at 2000 but went back down after it warmed up.
After it started I had the check engine light, vsc off and slip indicator light on when I parked the car I had no issues.
How can this happen by setting for a week in a garage? There's no animals to chew on anything. In the past the car has been hard to start if it set for a week similar to what happened today but never as bad and no check engine lights.
I turned the car off and on and now it starts fine and seems to run ok but all 3 lights are still on. The oxygen sensor on bank 1 was replaced almost a year ago.
Sometimes when I start my car it makes a weird cranking/grinding noise for half a second. The closest thing I have to engine mods are my TWM short shifter, and my borla axle back exhaust.
The noise only happens after my car has been sitting there, parked for a few hours. So to bring it to Toyota/mechanic would be nearly impossible to replicate, unless I left it there for a while. And even then, the noise only happens sometimes.
Yes I'm pressing my clutch pedal all the way down. No I am not holding the key too long when starting the car. What it might be?
2009 Toyota corolla Automatic, 1.8L NON 1ZZFE
Died while Friend was driving .
No MIL, no history or pending codes.
Verified spark with a test plug and a ignition wire tester. Has spark while cranking.
Verified engine has fuel at injectors, removed rail and attempted to start while monitoring injectors, visually fuel is being sprayed out.
Verified compression by removing #2 spark plug, inserted finger into hole, compression forces my finger out of the cylinder head.
Security light comes one initially for 2 second when key is turned on, but goes away during cranking.
Cranks nicely, wont fire or start.
Not sure what's wrong, looking for an EFI or Ignition wiring diagram.
About 7 months ago my truck started cranking longer than normal to start after sitting for more than 2 hours. This went on for about 3 weeks, then it started normally again. (By longer crank time, i timed it between 5-7 seconds on average. Normal is about 2 seconds). Now it has started doing this again about 4 weeks ago. Now I'm thinking HPO slow leak. Yesterday all is good again. What should I be looking for as a starting point to fix this permanently? When it cranks longer, the icp stays at 0, the ipr goes to 77%. Then it just fires off. No slow build of pressure. You can see all my mods and updated parts in my sig. I wonder if one of the new dummy plug o-rings is starting to give up already after only 15k miles. (Batt voltage is at 13.9-14.2, ficm is at 49.5 steady).
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 celica after sitting for a hour or so car has very long crank....
View 1 RepliesMy GF recently purchased a used 2009 Corolla LE when a yuppie type with a bad texting habit, rear ended and totaled her last ride.
It is a great little car with excellent handling and performance. We also enjoy the 30mpg's and sub $40 fill ups.
I drove it recently and noticed a knobby tire sound coming from the rear of the car. I rotated the tires to see if the noise moved with the tires and it did not (this was to rule out a cupping tire). I suspected a wheel bearing / hub failing and took it to my mechanic buddy to confirm. He agreed with me as there are really no other moving parts back there other than the brake shoes. I had already taken it down the highway and gently applied the parking brake to rule that out. No change when the parking brake was applied at highway speeds.
Found the hub assy at Rock Auto and it took about 30 minutes to replace. It comes complete with an abs sensor. The hub housing was blue from excessive heat so it was about to seize or fail completely which would have been ugly.
the bearing rides is actually blue from excessive heat.....
I have a base model 2009 Corolla and I find that on long drives (anything over an hour) the seats become incredibly uncomfortable. I have developed back pain I did not have before I bought the car. My wife drives an 05 corolla and I have no problems with it (even on 5 hour drives) so I can only assume that Toyota cheap out on the newer generation's seats. I have tried many different cushions, lumbar supports, and seat heaters, but none of them work all that well. Adjusting the seating position does not work either. I installed cruise control and while that worked a bit, it was no solution.
View 14 RepliesI had recently purchased a 2010 S used corolla , its a very good car but i'm facing a problem with my remote control , i have to get very close to the rear window so it responds, I had change the battery of the remote but problem still exists.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
View 1 RepliesHave a question about a noise I hear. This is a click (three click only) that only seems to occur if the car has sat for around an hour or longer. When started and put into gear and it starts to move, there is a metallic click that occurs right after the car starts to move. It come from the front. I try the dealership but no luck.
View 2 RepliesWe noticed that the driver side floorboard was soggy, so we removed the floor mat, propped the carpet up, and drained about an inch of water using the rubber plug. Well, it was left with the plug in and the carpet propped up over the weekend and, this morning, there's over an inch of water sitting on the metal.
I'm assuming it's coming from the sunroof drain but, although I was able to find the exit point for the drain, I couldn't find where the water actually enters said drain. Also, what's the best way to clear this issue?
I have a small problem with the 337. this morning it was -21 and i started the car and it died right away second try it died right a way third try it started no problem. after work it was around -2 and same problem. i have problem starting the car when its been siting for a few hour.
What could cause this? i changed the crank sensor last weekend. put a brand new battery. cause the last one was 7 years old.
My Toyota Corolla, 2006 keeps dying after long periods of sitting. Coincidentally (?) the issue has only occurred on weekends, after my 8-hour afternoon work shift. The first 2 occasions it made a quick clicking sound when I tried to start it (6 and 5 weeks ago, respectively). I replaced the battery; it was old. Then, the same issue happened two weeks ago. I had the battery checked at the site of purchase, where they also checked the alternator. Both reps advised me the parts showed up good on their meters. It died again the next day. So, I had a mechanic check every fuse and relay in the car to look for a draw on the battery using an amp meter. Readings indicated no significant drop in current draining from the battery while any were unplugged. . . I don't use a remote control unlock button (one professional seemed to think this might be relevant), and I have checked to make sure no lights were left on, even in the trunk. (Also note - I have seen no drop in performance when driving vehicle, nor any change in air conditioning or light brightness). I'm lost where to take it from here.
View 11 RepliesCar is hard to start when sitting about 9 hours or longer to a day without being started up it is hard to crank over, I am at a loss to what is causing it, the car has a new battery, new distributor rotor w/wires and cap, my car is an 1993 Nissan stanza ALTIMA GXE w/automatic seat-belts, the car is fully loaded Except for sun roof or heated seats, I do have 242360+ miles on the car. I kept the car well maintained from Nissan, and they can't find anything wrong with it. is this the case of just old age on the cars behalf? what I do notice is there's a slight drop in voltage reading on battery the night before to the next day, can a starter be my problem??
View 12 RepliesI had left my car for about 30 hours without driving, which I've done before all winter with no issues. Went to start it up yesterday morning to head out and when the key FOB failed to open the door, I knew I was in trouble.
I unlocked the door manually, and put the key in to start it up and the Treg was completely dead and the key wouldn't release from the ignition. After a call to VW roadside assistance, and a jump start, it started right up and I dropped it off at the dealer for them to look at.
The service report says "diag and found low state of charge. charged battery and found passes tests. performed TSB 27-05-01 and cleaned ground point for battery. rechecked OK"
This is a V6 Touareg (there is a similar TSB I understand for V8s).
I've had an intermittent problem on my DSG GTI. It will crank about 5 - 10 seconds before it turns over. It doesn't happen all the time. I've also noticed it stalling out after start up occasionally.
After several trips to my lame dealer they can't find anything wrong or duplicate the problem.
09 le 1.8 135k miles. Had serpentine belt break while driving home, pulled over, had car pulled in on a trailer. Pulled old belt and found water pump was bad along with belt broken. replaced both, car would fire off as should, but would still run hot while leaving parked running. pulled thermostat, found it would not open until about 15 degrees above opening temp. replaced thermostat, now car will turn but won't start.
Disconnected battery to try and clear any codes that would prevent it from starting, still won't start. have had to charge battery a couple times so wondering if it's the battery not having enough charge to start car up? i wouldn't think so, and it doesn't make sense for it to be plugs since it was starting up without a problem before changing thermostat.
Quick search found this post asking about changing the ECU, so it sounds like I'm not the only person to have heard this.
I've had my '09 Corolla for almost exactly 1 year and I've put 22k miles on it. All oil changes with Toyota elements and conventional oil at 1k miles and Mobil 1 5W-20 at 5, 10, 15, and 20k.
It's rattling like it isn't getting oil at start-up... intermittently. Sometimes it starts up just fine and others it rattles like it doesn't have oil for the first second or two. What's going on here?
I'm about ready to take it in to the dealer for an assessment, but with it being intermittent and all, I'm not expecting to be well-received. I know if I was looking at this as a used car and I heard what I've been hearing, I'd run.