Eventually, I'd like to replace the steel wheels on my Corolla LE (P195 65 R15) with ultra light wheels and low rolling resistance tires.
View 12 Repliesmy car is basically bone stock (2010 Corolla S). I'm looking at getting Eibach lowering springs fairly soon, and later on new tires/wheels. My question is what are the biggest wheels and tires I can get after I install these springs? Will 17" rims fit? Or does it depend on the tire as well?
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Yeah, like what I said on other thread (what did you do....) I installed new set of tires. I know most of guys here prefer not to have light on their dash, but I was worried because after I installed it the light did now show up even my new tires doesn't have TPMS sensor.
View 4 RepliesI drive a XR base model. I've decided to get factory xrs rims. If putting on these bigger rims affect my ride comfort, fuel consumption, or if it will affect my ride in anyway?
View 5 RepliesMy Axles started to make noises couple months ago While making Sharp turns. I bought some new axles for the front, but this will be my first time replacing CV Axles.
Any tips and or recommendations on what to do and not do, and tools to use? I watched a couple Youtube videos already. I plan on changing them out this weekend.
I have a 2009 Matrix and the beginnings of corrosion is beginning to show on the alloy wheels. How to protect it against further corrosion? Any particular wax or product to overcome the situation?
View 1 RepliesTomorrow I'm taking my car in to have them look at my transmission. I started noticing that whenever I put the car in first, it almost feels like the front tires are skipping off the ground. It does the same thing when I put it in second. At first, I thought it might have been caused by my 18" rims, so I switched over to the stock wheels. Same crap.
View 12 RepliesLast Thursday Nov 22nd, I took my 2010 Corolla for a regular oil change service by an Toyota agent. The service representative recommended to have the brake fluid replace since it had already 39000 km since new. I agreed.
The same evening, I start hearing a strange high pitch noise from the front while braking light at low speed. It does not occur all the time. I did a search in this forum about the brake noise.
That strange high pitch noise could come from the ABS actuator when it activates or modulates at that light braking.
I did a visual check on the bleeding nipples of the brakes today. It seems that the two nipples for rear brake were untouched and this would mean they did not bleed the rear brakes and air could be trapped in the rear brake lines.
Will take the car back the Toyota service. As search from our forum, the cause for the abnormal modulating of the ABS actuator could be :
(a) a bad speed sensor or
(b) air trapped in the brake line.
Since it starts at the same day of replacing the brake fluid, the most likely cause is air trapped in the brake line.
I have a 2011 CE Corolla, automatic, with only 4800 km, and since a week, I hear a noise coming from the right side (passenger side)of the car, coming form the wheels when the car moves very slowly. It's a kind of toc toc toc sound. When the car isn't moving, there is no sound. So it has to be a moving part.
When I drive faster I don't hear it, but when I slow down to walking speed, with my windows up and the radio and fan off, I can hear the cloc cloc sound, and I'm not sure if its coming from the front or back wheel.
I tried rotating my tires myself to see if all was good and tight, and I saw nothing abnormal.
Even when I'm barely advancing, like half the speed of a person walking, I can hear the cloc cloc sound.
I have a 2009 Corolla S. When I drive on the highway and the road dips and then comes back up, I hear a crunching sound as the wheels come back up. It almost sounds like springs. I thought maybe it was the cold weather but it isn't. The sound is in the front end.
At 53,000 miles, it seems early for this kind of problem and I never have had this so early in the life of a car. I do have the Toyota Extended Warranty of 125000 miles and 8 years. Would this be covered under that?
It doesn't really happen over bumps, it's when the car dips down and comes back up on the highway...50 mph or more.
After driving the corolla 10 mi or more , I always smell burning rubber at the rear tires.
Could it be the rear alignment?
Is it adjustable?
I went into a shop today and got my corolla checked out and they said that its shock absorbers and struts should be replaced because the oils were leaking and they told me the total estimate of my cost (parts+labors) are about 1300 dollars.
Like, do I need to buy all shock absorbers, struts and strut springs for each of the wheel? (front 2 + rear 2 = total of 4 of each) ??
I get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
The car is a manual transmission 2005 Toyota Corolla with around 90,000 miles. I'm not the only owner. The car was bought used. It appears that the car was in a front end accident that doesn't appear in a carfax report. This can be identified by the poor clearcoat paint job on the hood flaking off and the absence of the air conditioner, as well as some rather pathetic body, work with noticeable bends and a few missing screws. Most of which I consider cosmetic and irrelivant to the car's operations.
The tires are bald and the car has had an alignment about 2 years ago after I replaced the struts. I wasn't notified of any bad ball joints, but that doesn't mean thats out of the question. The car has a bit of a shake at high speeds. Sometimes the shaking is violent enough to reduce speed. I noticed that more often the shake is really bad above 60 and quite scary above 70. This isn't always the case. Sometimes the shake isn't as noticable by comparison.
At low speeds the car seems to have a wobble or repeatative hop. The steering wheel has a rythmic pattern moving back and forth a few degrees. Enough to make holding a full cup or soda not a safe choice unless the desire is to wear the drink. The wobble appears to be a little worse when the car is cold. Winter mornings seem to bring out the worst in the wobble.
I would like to do as much work on my own as possible to save $, but I realize I may need professional service equipment to diagnose some of this. Can car tires be diagnosed for having bulges with some sort of test aside from visual inspection alone? Is there a tool that can be used to verify the metal of the wheel is true and not the source of the wobble? Do wobbles and shakes derive from bad tie rods and/or ball joints? What is the most common problem that produces symptoms similar to mine?
I enjoy the car's money saving potential, but it lacks an air conditioner which is vital for defrost operations and keeping the insane summer heat tolerable. If the repairs will cost me more than the car is worth I may choose to invest that money into a 2005 model as a replacement since I've grown tired of the lack of radio and no air conditioner. I'm trying to keep 5ish years behind the curve as not to waste money on the politics of new car value depreciation.
What the problem is? still drive-able?
View 14 Replies2010 Corolla LE ... This started today, on the ride home from work. Mid 50 degrees, light rain, driving down straight road it started. Engine light also on. No mods in car. is this something the dealer has to se, or can I bring it to my own mechanic?
View 1 RepliesOne of my light bulbs for the rear license plate light is out.
what kind of light bulb I need to get?
So I was on my way home i was 2 miles away from my house and my abs light and e-brake light randomly go on. I got home and turned car off and back on and it was still there.
View 14 RepliesSo I bought and installed bc coilovers and my abs light and 2 other lights came on. I did accidently mess up one of the wires on the front left strut but it is not torn in half or anything just sliced into a little. I electrical taped it back together.
View 4 RepliesThis morning I started my car, which was parked on an incline, with the car in gear (manual tranny) without remembering that I had left the car in gear. So, when I started the car, it lurched forward when I took my foot off of the clutch pedal. No big deal. I started the car again, but now the check engine light and abs lights are on steady, and the VCS is blinking. The car drove normal all the way to work. When I got to work, I shut the car off and started it up again, but the 3 warning lights are still on.
Is there a re-set procedure for the lights that happens automatically, or do I have to have someone with a scan tool reset it?
Could there actually be something wrong with the car?
I noticed my tail light isnt working, so I decided to change the bulb. And bought a 7443LL Sylvania bulb from Oreilly. Fits perfectly but noob that hasnt opened a car before. Old bulb is greyish, I guess its blown out or something. I change both bulb because you buy them in pairs. Anyhow, I thought its the bulb is the problem but now its not. Since both break light and tail are of the same bulb but tail light isnt working. So I figured the bulb isn't the culprit. I called a friend and he says its the fuse. Found the fuse, bought and replace the fuse. I turn on the car, tail light is still not working. Check the new fuse, its blown, put another one, the same thing happen. It keeps blowing my tail light fuse everytime I start the car. Im quite sure I got the right 7443, its dual filament bulb (I can see 4 wires at the base and 2 string that would light up for tail and break.
Is there 2 fuse for the tail light, I only found one by the break pedal, its just below the turn signal/hazard relay.