Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Knocking Noise Turns Into A Rattle At Higher Speeds
Sep 4, 2015
I've owned this vehicle for the past year. This 2009 Corolla XRS manual has a very annoying steering rattle which took me the whole year to finally breakdown and diagnose. There are many forums stating this rattle is associated with the intermediate shaft assembly #2. I did end up replacing this part 45260-02110, hoping this would fix the rattling or knocking issue. It did not, but smoothness the steering has improved. I removed the upper portion of the intermediate shaft to pinpoint the sound. Originally I believed the noise may have been coming through the bulkhead from the intermediate shaft #1 or steering rack. I checked under the boot and everything was snug. Then I rattled the steering wheel around and this what I found.
It seems the noise is coming from the pinion where the power steering motor meets the steering column. You can hear the knocking noise with settle steering wheel movements. As I move faster, the knock turns into a rattle at higher speeds most likely vibration from the road. At this time, I do not want to disassemble the whole column just to see if I can adjust the motor height (if possible).
YouTube : [URL] ......
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Fiance's 09 Corolla S just started having a rattle/knock noise this evening. car has 123k. It's clearly an engine internal sound. I believe it is coming from the cylinder head. She called me when it started making the noise, she shut it off and has only been ran enough to get it on and off the trailer.
Not sure if it's a broken valve spring or valve. or the timing chain guides? It threw a CEL light.
I ran the code on my scanner and it came back with: P0302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire)
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I just bought a 09 Corolla S a month ago. In the last few days I've been hearing a popping/knocking noise while I'm driving. It sounds like it is coming from one of the wheels but which one. It usually happens once I decelerate or driving at low speeds. If I brake the noise will stop. The rhythm of the noise doesn't seem to be consistent with speed I'm driving. It happens more often on bumpy roads but it still happens on smooth roads. I'm wondering what are the possible problems that are could cause this?
I don't know if this would relate to the sounds I mentioned but when I bought this car it had brake problems. It would grind pretty loud. The dealership ended up replacing new rear drums. So when I drove it home everything sounded good for about a week. The grinding noise came back and after I sprayed some brake cleaner it went away for a few days. I'm assuming thats what the dealership did to hide the noise. I went ahead and changed the front pads and that worked for a week or so...but the grinding noise is back. I was about to change my rotors this weekend when the popping/knocking sound I mentioned above started happening.
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...... 2010 Corolla LE 1.8L ...... View the video I uploaded ....... The noise is seems to be getting worse. My first thought is the bearings in the water pump may have failed. I'm also thinking that there isn't adequate lubrication near the gear assembly or the belt. Could there be a problem with the tension in the belt?
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Had a quick question on if there is a right or wrong way to break in a brand new engine?
I have a 2011 Corolla S, Manual Transmission...Since ive got it i shift gears at 3,000 RPM's, I have a buddy who shifts every 3,500 RPM's. Is There any benefits to shifting at higher RPM's during the break in of the engine?
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Potholes are nasty where I live .It sounds like there's something in my trunk rolling back and fourth. When I accelerate it knocks back. When I brake it knocks forward. Just like rolling, it only happens once in each direction. Sort of sounds like the noise of bending/popping metal.I'm taking my car in later this week.
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I have been noticing this Rotten egg/sulfur exhaust smell I have been getting for the past 2 months. So far it only happens when the engine hits 3000rpm or higher.
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I had some issues over the past couple of days with my 2009 Corolla EPS. It would occasionally go off, after all the indicator lights would flash momentarily. This only happens at low speeds, under 10 mph, and as soon as I got it up to speed the power steering would come back on. (note just about 140,000 miles)
I took my car into the dealer and he told me my battery needed to be replaced, its the original, and my rear hub and bearing assembly is corroded and there is electrical damage back there.
Did my first repair this summer, the alternator and water pump. But I didn't think the rear hub and bearing would have electrical connections or sensors effecting the EPS. I'm sure there is rust, but would that cause EPS issues? Could there be electrical damage? I also tested my battery yesterday and got 12.5 - 12.6 V with if off and 13.6 -13.7 on, but my battery is old.
I am going to pick it up from the dealer and just try changing the battery first. The total repair they suggested would cost $1875.00, which is crazy to me? Could there be a bigger issue though, and could the EPS just cut out on me while I'm on the highway or something?
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So I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
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2004 Corolla, 100,000 miles. It makes a strange sound when moving. It's noticeable at speeds higher than about 30 mph. It changes with road speed, not engine speed. It's similar to a failing wheel bearing sound. I've stuck my head out the window on each side of the car and can't localize the noise. I checked for deflection in all four wheels, and they're all tight.My next thought was a transmission problem. I checked the fluid and found it to be at the proper level. I doubt if it's ever been changed. I drove the car and released the accelerator, and I put the transmission in neutral. The noise did not change. I'm not sure what that tells us, but it's another data point.
Currently I have the front wheels off the ground. If I run the drive system to 30 to 40 mph that way, the sound is not there. I don't know that both wheels are going the same speed, so I'm not sure it's an accurate test.I've checked wheel bearings before on my Cavalier and easily found the defective one. I could tell which one it was by hearing the noise while in the driver's seat, and the check verified that. I think I know how to find a bad wheel bearing, but maybe there's another test I don't know about. I'll search online.Maybe it's a noisy tire. I can't locate the source by ear, and that's something I'm usually good at. I wonder if the transmission or differential might be making the noise but only when it's under an actual load.
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Toyota Corolla S 2009 Automatic 4 Door
Saturday I changed the starter because the old one was going out and I didnt want it to die so it was preventaive. Went to put in the sparkplugs but the dealer gave me the wrong ones, drove to the dealer and they pulled out one I had to check it and put it back in. (I had 9/16 long plugs, which is rare for my engine apparently.) I went to leave, and when I turned it over, nothing happened. I pulled the Key out, waited 5 seconds, started up. Went home, put in the sparkplugs and drove about 300 miles since Saturday and no problem.
Today I went to leave and the car turned over multiple times, after the 4th, it acted like it was starting but shut off and kept turning over.
First, I checked all the wires on the plugs and around them, even pulled all the plugs and put in the old ones. Same problem.
I unplugged the battery and hoped if it was a computer glitch that it would have fixed it. Same problem.
When I turn it over, the started keeps going and it will pretend to turn on for half a second and then keep turning over. I also smell raw gas when I get out of the car for a few seconds before it goes away.
The last time it did throw codes, but I have no reader. I have to wait for the neighbor to pull them. Is there anything I can test or check out? Everything as far as the wires and fuses look good. I am at a loss for where to go.
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09 corolla. Wife said it was hard to start this morning and when she got off work. it started fine right after she got home. i waited a few hours, after dinner and went out to start it and it takes the engine about 3 seconds to start.
Normally when I turn the key the engine cranks up and starts. today it cranks or turns over about 3 times before starting. and there's no error/engine lights. tested the battery, full charge. not sure what else to check.
We are in Houston TX, with about 95'F day temps, you could call it a cold start since the engine has been resting and cooling off. but not cold like freezing temp.
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2009 Matrix 2ZR-FE, briefly rattles on restart after sitting for one hour after reaching running temp. This engine doesn't rattle on a cold startup so I'm wondering what else other than the intake cam gear could cause this. 42,000 miles, 5-20 dino, regular service.
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I finally pulled the trigger on a dark grey Corolla S yesterday, and it turns out that it rattles on the driver side top dash. When I push on it, it stops, but it's pretty annoying and noticeable. I guess I should take it back.
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE with approx 63k miles. The problem I am having is when approaching about 45 mph, a slight rattle begins to make noise and it gets faster/louder as my speed increases. It is a noise that sounds like something is vibrating on the inside of the dash/in the engine bay. I have opened up the glove box and replaced the cabin air filter, and even drove around with the glove box dropped down to see if the noise is coming from the interior. It sounded the same with the glove box dropped down. I have done research with the service bulletins and even secured the washer hose suspecting that was the problem but it made no difference.
It is very frustrating to me because it does not seem to be affected by anything but speed. After hitting 45 mph it begins and will go away after going below 45. Changing any of the AC/blower knobs makes no difference. It does not seem to change the way the vehicle performs in any way either. Just an annoyance more than anything!
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I finally caught my engine rattle on audio. Give a listen and tell me what you think this is: [URL] .....
There's a TSB about a rattle on a cold start, but mine never rattles when it's cold. This always happens on a warm restart -- usually about 45 to 75 minutes after I've parked it.
It's been doing this for at least a year, but I've had trouble catching it in the act and, of course, the dealer can't reproduce it. I currently have 37k miles on it. Oil changes completed at 1k, 5k and every 5k after. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 since the second change.
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2011 Corolla S, the RPM's drop by couple hundred suddenly when easing off the gas pedal. This is more noticeable at speeds of about 60-70mph. I got it checked out under warranty and the dealer said it is normal as the car shifting out of overdrive.
They may be correct in this as it is the speed around which the overdrive comes into play but it just does not feel right, although it may be related to the overdrive, they should have a fix so that the car slows down gradually, not suddenly.
I have read other TS-B updates which resolves the problem of fluctuating RPM's at steady speeds or the RPM not dropping when letting off the gas pedal, however my issue is slightly different in that the RPM's drop suddenly and then jumps back up again. I wonder if that same TS-B flash will resolve my issue.
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So yesterday i just noticed a ticking sound (drivers side, almost sounds like its coming from from under my drivers seat underneath the car) when i make sharper turns, but it wont tick when i make regular turns or go around corners.
I lowered my car about 5 or 6 months ago on Tein S Tech 9th gen springs, could that have caused whatever this ticking sound is to start ?
2010 Corolla
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I posted a few weeks ago about the 2009 Corolla XE that I purchased from a Toyota dealer with 95,500 miles. Within days a buying the car it began to make a brief loud rattle on cold starts. People on this forum directed me to the VVT and they were right on. The car came with a 60 day warranty so they replaced the timing gear at no cost to me problem solved.
Now several weeks later, last night when I got out of the car with the engine running I heard a pretty loud noise that sounded like one valve very out of adjustment. This morning when I started the car the noise was no longer there but when I checked the oil it was a quart low. I have put about 1800 miles on the car since I bought it and the oil was changed at the dealer right before I bought it. I thought it being low on oil might be causing the noise. I took the car to the dealer and explained everything, the put a quart of oil in it and said to bring it back in about 1000 miles to check it out.
When I got back home the noise was there again so I guess being low on oil wasn't the cause. In terms of oil consumption the service rep said Toyota considers up to 1.1 quarts per 1200 miles to be normal oil consumption. This sounds like a lot to me.
And in terms of the noise that sounds like a loose valve I'm beginning to think it had something to do with the work they did to replace the timing gear. What would make this noise come and go? Doesn't seem to be any relationship to operating temp or how long the engine has been running.
So I guess I have two problems, potentially an oil consumption problem and a intermittent loud noise that I don't like the sound of. My power train warranty expires Nov 19.
And do the valves on 2009 are adjustable, the service rep said they were auto adjust?
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So when i hit ~80km/h (50 miles) some weird extremely small vibration is coming on. You cannot feel it from anywhere but when u touch something, like handbrake then its there. Tho the sound is kinda loud. So the pattern is like, 0.3 seconds it is vibrating and 0.3 is quiet, it does not matter on which road i drive.
This problem cannot be caused by wheels (got other alloys and same problem), also already got alignment and have balanced my wheels. So, what to do?
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I have a 2010 Model S that has 38,000 miles on it. I am hearing a rattling in the front brakes when cruising along at almost all speeds. If i hold a little peddle pressure it goes away. Sounds like the pads are rattling to me. I am running the stock pads with about 45 to 50% remaining on them.
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