2009 1.8 Corolla . I'm chasing an intermittent P0352 code and misfire. Code points to coil pack #2 . Question is, which one is #2 ? I want to swap coils and see if the error follows the coil but I can figure out which cylinder is #2 and since all of the coil wires disappear into a loom, I'm not sure how else to tell.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla S w/ 79K miles on it and recently my check engine light came on with the trouble code P0352. The engine would misfire while accelerating and then was extremely rough when at a stop light. This issue and check engine light have been happening intermittently over the last few days. I don't really know anything about engines/cars but doing some research came back with the following...
Possible causes
- Faulty Ignition Coil 2
- Ignition Coil 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Basically my question is how do I troubleshoot and figure out what the real problem is? I would rather not buy and replace the Ignition Coil if it is something else. From everything I have seen it seems the simplest method to test the coil is to switch out the ignition coil and spark plug on coil 2 with one of the other 3 ignition coils and see if the the trouble code follows it or stays on 2.
I have a 2009 Corolla with a 1.8 L. I have the misfire code P0301. I have changed the plugs, ignition coil, and fuel injector on cylinder one. It still has the misfire.
View 5 Replies2009 corolla 1.8l 155,000 miles. Replaced iridium spark plugs at 100,000
I got a CEL few weeks ago, P0301 Toyota - Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected
Car has been running bad for about 2 weeks now, excise noise on the highway, especially up hills.
Yesterday, I took a look, replaced the spark plug in cylinder 1, same results. Checked the coils using one of those flashing tools, all 4 flashed quickly, with no breaks in flashing. put it all back together, cleared the code, went home.
Took it out for a drive today, and it started running way worse. Checked the CEL, and now I have both P0301 and P0303 Misfire on cylinder 1 and 3. Barely made it home, ran VERY VERY bad.
Got home, and made a video of it. It just kept dying. Check it out here. [URL] .....
Also, when it does run, it almost sounds like I can hear excess air, its hard to hear in video, but doesn't sound right. Maybe air leak? How do I check?
I have a 2009 Corolla S 1.8 with a manual transmission and 30,000 miles. About a month ago the check engine light came on throwing a PO302 code (cylinder 2 misfire detected). I reset the check engine light and drove it about a week before the check engine light reappeared again with the PO302 code. I swapped the spark plugs on cylinders 2 and 3 and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the coils on cylinders 2 and 4, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared. I swapped the fuel injectors on cylinders 2 and 3, and reset the check engine light, the PO302 soon reappeared.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla S with 130k miles and started developing what felt like a slight misfire at idle. Dealer suggested change the plugs and if not that try the coils. So I got the wrong plugs givin to me there 5/8s not 14mm. I found a socket that worked and thought the old ones where the same as the new ones.
The 5/8 socket fell right in and knew it wasn't the right size after the plug wasn't tuning. Then I searched and found out there 14mm plugs. So now the socket is stuck inside the metal tube that goes into the head. I tried a locking extensions, long needle nose, hook with a slide hammer, pb blaster, heat, crc freeze off. Even tried spinning it as pulling up with an impact.
A couple weeks ago, my check engine light popped on and I noticed my engine misfire. I happened to be driving by an autozone, so I pulled in and had them check the code. Came back as a misfire on cylinder 4, possibly bad ignition coil or clogged injector. I ran some techron for the next couple of gas tanks, didn't seem to do much, as I would still occasionally get the check engine light.
It has been getting more and more common for it to happen while driving since. Today on the way home from work, it misfired several times in a row and got so bad that I couldn't get above 40mph. This lasted for a minute or two, then cleared up and I made it home without a hitch. Took it back to autozone, same code..Cylinder 4 misfire, probably ignition coil or primary/secondary ignition b fault. I went ahead and bought an ignition coil, came back home and installed. Just took it for a test drive and now I've got the same issue.
I only replaced the one coil that has been throwing a code as misfiring. I did not also replace the spark plug on that cylinder.
Have an intermittent miss I can feel when driving 2006 F250 5.4 l 4x4 stick; Freeze frame from Cen-Tech 60794 (from Harbor Freight) scanner follows.
DTC CNT 0
DTC FRZF P 0352
FUEL SYS1 OL - FAULT?
FUEL SYS2 --
LOAD PCT 25.9
ELT (DEGREES F) 186
SHRTFT 1 0.0
[Code] ....
I can operate the scanner but what these ranges should be. What might be causing the miss? This scan shows 951 rpm, I was idling along in 1st in traffic, but I have also felt the miss at 75-80 mph (about 2300 rpm) on the Interstate and at other times, with light loads in the 1500- 2000 range in town.
Basically, whenever I brake, my front brakes squeal. But they only do this if I use about 25% to 33% force. If I press on the pedal harder, the squealing goes away and the same if I reduce the force.
I replaced my pads with Wagner ThermoQuiet pads in March 2015. The noise started a month or 2 after replacing my pads, and I've only put about 12k miles on them. I had my car in a couple weeks ago for an oil change, and the inspection showed that the pads still had plenty of life on them. I brought it up to the service advisor, and he suggested that my rotors might be warped and need to be machined. The problem with that is I feel absolutely no vibration in my brake pedal that would indicate warpage.
So the only other thing I can think of is the shims might be causing the noise. I was going to get some grease and apply that and see if it works. Also, when I was replacing the pads I bled out a little more brake fluid than I intended. But it hasn't seemed to affect my braking ability so I ruled that out.
Any guesses for what might cause this? Like I said, I have plenty of material left on the pads and I can stop without problems, so it's not a safety issue, just a tad annoying.
I have a 2010 corolla with 32k miles, automatic transmission. I have an intermittent low idle issue when it rained or when it is below freezing 32F. It happens when I am in drive and about to brake to a complete stop. The idle dips to around 500 rpm, the engine shudders and the car shakes then after a second or two, the engine idle goes back up to 800 rpm. There is no engine concerns at any other speed just at idle. I have no CEL codes. The engine never stalls. Low idle when braking.
View 1 RepliesMy Corolla has the P0441 code, but not the typical 0445 code that comes with a loose gas cap. I cleared it and it came back (yes, I checked the gas cap). Googling the issue, I found service bulletin SB 0392-08, which implies the ECM could need to be replaced if the issue is not in the Evap system.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 corolla LE with 81,000 miles on it. Today after I got gas, the check engine light came on. I checked the OBD code and it said P0607. I cleared the code and continued to drive it and it ran fine and the light has not came back on yet. I'm a little worried about driving it on long trips now.
View 2 RepliesI have the code P0500 on my 2009 Matrix. The odometer doesn't function, all error lights are on, the power steering is not completely out but it's reduced. Also, the rear windshield wiper is constantly on. I replaced the vehicle transmission sensor today because I thought that would fix it all. It had absolutely no effect.
View 5 RepliesCorolla has this code : B1801
When i erase it comes right back!
Open in (D) Squib Circuit. What to start looking for?
About 2 months ago I started having a problem starting my car. It would crank and crank but wouldn't start. Eventually it would start but threw a code for the camshaft position sensor. I figured I'd go ahead and replaced it. Still had the same issue after about a week without problems, except this time the crankshaft position sensor code.
I maintain my car very well, and it just recently passed 45k miles. It's a 2010 Corolla S.
The check engine light on my 09 Corolla came on so, after it continuing to stay on, I bought a OBD ll Code Reader. The scan showed 10 faults but, only 3 code numbers were given for the 10 faults. Each of the 3 code numbers appeared twice for a total of 6 out of the 10 faults indicated. The remaining 4 faults had no corresponding code numbers. Don't know why but, they just didn't. Even after multiple scans.
Here are the code numbers that did show.
P2401(twice)
P2402(twice)
P2419(twice)
According to the CD that came with the reader, this is what the codes mean.
P2401.. evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low.
P2402.. same thing as above except control circuit high.
P2419.. evap emission system switching valve control circuit low.
Looking for more specific explanation to me what this all means then it has something to do with emissions. Is it something that should be of concerned? I have erased the codes a couple of times but after a day or two, the engine light comes on again. This has been going on for over a month now but, the car is working great. Last road trip, I got approx 52 mpg.
My friend was told by Toyota that the Air Fuel Sensor code was the reason why her 2010 Corolla VSC and engine lights were on. This was after she visited her mechanic who changed the O2 sensor.
Is there a way to change the Air fuel sensor herself without having to pay Toyota...
I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla (It has a 1ZZFE engine). The car for a long time was a little problem when starting (long cranks and several tries before starting, but no check engine light at all), then, after adjusting the PVC hose for 3 days the car worked perfectly, but one week ago, in the morning when trying starting, it was impossible. I scanned and got a U0100 code, tested crankshaft position sensor and it is ok, tried with the other key but same result, only cranks, no start at all. After scanning, it started briefly and suddenly went off, tried again, and only cranks.
View 1 RepliesAfter taking my 2009 Corolla S to the dealer on 4/07 for an oil change, about 4 or 5 days later the check engine light, the traction control light, and the VSC light come on (VSC off blinks). The first day it came on, I took it to autozone to look the code up and they said it was P0353 (issue with ignition coil c I think). I immediately afterwards drove to the dealer to see what they would say. But after parking in their garage speaking with the greeters, they said the light wasnt on, and asked if I wanted to wait the 2 hours to see a tech. So I took it home.
The code came back about 3 days later, and this time there was a slight stall/jolt for about 4 or 5 seconds. This occured on startup and not during driving. After the 4 or 5 seconds of the mild jolting it felt like it was running smooth. I took it home and after leaving it off for about 20 minutes, the light went out again. A couple days later it came back and stayed on over night and was still present when I started it the next day. It went off again later that day.
My question is what could be causing this that might be a simple fix. Do toyota techs check anything with the spark plugs during normal Oil Changes? I know they checked my brakes but Im not a car guy and am not really sure all that they do. Could it be a loose spark plug? Code P0353 coming up sporadically after dealer Oil change. Is there any steps they normally do during the oil change that could be causing this, like leaving a spark plug loose after checking them or something? Would the coil / wiring harness fall under an engine warranty?
My car is now 24/7 with this error which is Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction an there seems to be no way of solving it, symptoms are:
*Speedometer not working, needle always in 0
*Power steering not working
*Car wont past 3rd gear
*Check engine light and power steering light on
I checked all 4 speed sensors and the wiring looks good and they look good. Also if i hit a bump, issue goes away for a couple of minutes, until i hit another, etc, so looks like a wire or short circuit, cant tell. Is there a speed sensor on the transmission as well? where is located?
Went on a trip Sunday, and i saw my engine light come on after i put gas in the car. I pulled over, re-checked the gas cap, and it was fine. Car felt fine.
When i got home, i used my OBD2 scanner, and got the error P0304 Code - Cylinder #4 Misfire. I cleared the error and drove the car some more, no issues.
Yesterday, my wife took the car and she said it was hesitating and sputtering, but the light hasn't come back. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow, the car has under 80,000k, so the warranty should kick in.