Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Idle Rough And Throttle Body Will Shut The Car Down
Sep 12, 2013
Having problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
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Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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I changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
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I have a 2010 corolla s and I started to notice that when I was at red lights with the car in drive my rpm's would drop to around 600 but it would only do it randomly, or so i thought until one day I was at a light and turned the ac on and my rpm's went back up to 800 so I turned it off and the rpm's dropped again, turned on the headlights and they went back up.
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Few weeks ago.....Prius was showing the P0505 code .... Mechanic, ran diagnostics and determined it was dirty TB. Cleaned TB.....cleared the code (inspected PCV...hoses).
When I initially picked it up it was revving very high....so he hooked it back up to the scanner and did some type of "reset" for the idle (this cleared most some computer settings...back-up beep, radio stations, etc...). Everything ran fine for past 3 weeks...
Just last night..... started running rough again. What I noticed this morning ... Started it up and it ran very rough til the auto shutdown after warmup (no warning lights). Then....when I started driving slowly out of the lot...it ran "rough upon acceleration"...... Then fine at cruising speed. Same behavior at every light....rough acceleration.... fine once up to speed. Just started it up again and same behavior.....(does not die...just very rough).
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Trying to clean the throttle body on my 09 sonata 2.4L due to rough idle occasionally (throwing P0106, replaced MAF sensor still same problem), one quick question, is it okay to force the valve open (with connector disconnected of course), and is "re-learning" necessary and what's the proper way to do it?
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I have a 2009 Camry which has the well known very bad vibration at idle when in drive at a light. My Ultragauge shows the RPM are very low when it vibrates. Sometimes it drops to around 425-450 rpm when at a stop light in drive (automatic car). Then it sometimes moves up to around 625-675 rpm and that is when the vibration completely disappears and it is nice and smooth. This issue is intermittent but happens everyday.
Most people think it is due to a bad engine mount and spend money doing that and get no results.
I have done a lot of research and feel it is due to a dirty throttle body and IAC valve and want to test my theory. I will post results once I do the job. What is the easiest and most thorough way to clean both?
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Ok so i just installed the trd front strut as my first"upgrade" on my 2009 corolla LE 2 days ago. Immediately i noticed when taking corners there was muchhh much less body roll which i love and i can take corners at a faster speed. BUT i have noticed at highway speeds it feels like the car is "swaying" left and right even if the car is moving in a straight line.Mainly the back of the car feels like its moving back and forth especially when its uneven roads while the front remains "even" Its quite unsettling as it feels like the back of the car will fishtail and lose control at any second.And yesterday it seems even at low speeds around 20 mph it feels like slight swaying. My question is, is this normal simply because everything else suspension wise is stock while the front has a strut bar? Maybe something else is wrong? Maybe its my imagination and its just the uneven roads?
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I searched but couldn't immediately find anything about this particular line. I've been struggling with a rough idle for the past couple weeks, throwing codes that I'm running to lean all the time. I cleaned the throttle body and MAF, and was in the process of replacing the MAF and noticed a small hose fitting behind the MAF but before the throttle body was pretty much split in half. I don't know what it's for and I'm replacing it regardless, but could this be the source of my problem?
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I bought a 2009 f150 5.4 with 150000 miles on it. I have a slight hesitation from idle so I want to clean the throttle body. I found several for the older f150"s with the horizontal throttle body but this 2009 has a vertical mounted one. I change the air filter and cleaned the MAF but didn't change anything. My wife's ford 500 had this problem and cleaning the throttle body completely cured it.
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Is there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
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It's a 2012 Corolla. I disconnected the battery and the 2 grounds where the fender mounts in the front. I did this to do some body repairs. When I reconnected everything, the car started, but immediately shut off. What is wrong? Is it a computer issue where it needs to relearn?
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2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
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So I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
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I've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
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Shifted accidentally from third to second on highway, revved way up and engine shut off, turns over almost started an hour later but didnt want to try to completely start it. still under warranty so how do I get around the OBD reports and get it covered or am I screwed.
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Is it possible to reset or shut off the auto door locks?
When I use my use my factory remote to unlock the doors it usually locks itself within one second. If it don't time it right I'm pressing that button repeatedly trying to open the door. This is such a pain and it's annoying. Sometimes when I go to open the door so that I can exit the vehicle it locks itself midway me opening the door so that I'm stuck.
I called the dealer and shocker they want me to come in so that I can get screwed. There must be a way to just reset or reprogram this.
I have searched I have seen threads concerning the locking when you shift out of park. I am asking about just locking and unlocking the car.
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I just bought a 2013 Barcelona Red Corolla S in Manual transmission. Already, I've noticed how rough the transmission is when I shift. But it's only roughy when I first step on the clutch. But if I keep the clutch pedal down, all the gears shift smoothly, until I release the clutch and press it down again, then the first shift is really rough. Especially REVERSE, when I shift into reverse, it's so rough that it shakes the car. There's no grind, just very rough. It sounds like someone cocked a shotgun. Everything is smooth when driving tho, only happens at full stop.
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My 09 corolla is running rough when idling in drive. It doesn't happen in park or neutral.
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