Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Grinding Type Noise For Just A Split Second - Bad Ignition Switch?
Nov 21, 2013
I have a question about my 2009 Toyota corolla. About a week ago it was pretty cold out and when I started my car and I heard a grinding type noise for just a split second and it was over. It never did it again after that. Well I went to start my car yesterday and it will not start or even turn over. The dash doesn't light up, the head lights, radio, windows are door locks will not work. The battery was checked and it's fine. My husband is thinking that it maybe the ignition switch. Does this sound right?
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So ever since I bought my car in April, I hear this noise when I accelerate. It only happens when I first start the car. Its a grinding light noise but you can definitely hear it when you are in the car. I only hear it when after I start the car, go reverse, and right after I step on the gas on drive. Today I took it in for my 10k service and told the Assistant Service Manager about it. We went and took my car for a test drive and now we also hear the noise right after we he start the car then reverse.
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I have a 2009 Corolla with 67k on the odometer so it is outside of warranty. I recently found about the TSB for the grinding noise on start up and took the car to my mechanic to have it looked at. He said he wasn't able to do the job because he would have to do some sort of computer update (ECU reflash?) and he doesn't have the means.
My car is currently at the dealership, and they want around 1800 dollars, 1400 for the VVTI gear, and another 400 for a tensioner. I have a friend who used to be a Toyota mechanic, and he says he can do the work as stated in the TSB, but he's unsure if the ECU would need updating, and it does not mention anything in the TSB. So what I am wondering is if :
1. Does changing the VVTI gear actually fix the grinding noise? I was reading an old thread where members said it was still there after having the TSB done.
2. Does there need to be anything done to the ECU after doing the TSB?
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I have a 2009 corolla S. no warranty. 59k miles. my car gets a grinding noise whenever i start it. this is the example of the sound.
YouTube ....
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I've been having this issue with my 2009 Toyota Corolla for some time now. When I turn the car on, there is a noise coming from under the hood that sounds like a screeching/grinding noise. I have captured the noise in this video: [URL] ....
It happens most times I turn my car on in the morning, after it has been sitting off and untouched for the night. When I am turning the car on afterwards throughout the day, the noise is less likely to appear.
I recently took my car in and got the water pump and belt replaced, because a few months ago I was driving down the highway and I heard a similar noise coming from under the hood, and I opened the hood and red coolant liquid was splashed everywhere. I am not knowledgeable about cars at all, but the dealership replaced the water pump and the belt and that seemed to fix that issue, but the grinding noise upon ignition is still there.
I took it into the dealership, but they were not able to replicate the issue because it had not been the first time the car was turned on for the day, so there was no grinding noise. I would like to know if it is the water pump or belt, since those are still under a 2 year warranty with the dealership. Otherwise, I need to know what this is so I can get it fixed.
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Sometimes when I start my car it makes a weird cranking/grinding noise for half a second. The closest thing I have to engine mods are my TWM short shifter, and my borla axle back exhaust.
The noise only happens after my car has been sitting there, parked for a few hours. So to bring it to Toyota/mechanic would be nearly impossible to replicate, unless I left it there for a while. And even then, the noise only happens sometimes.
Yes I'm pressing my clutch pedal all the way down. No I am not holding the key too long when starting the car. What it might be?
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I performed brake maintenance today with my brother on my 2010 corolla CE, my front rotors were warped and my pads were used ( and also uneven) and I replaced both front rotors and pads.
The install went smoothly, my brother changed a couple of brakes sets and knew what he was doing and showed me up.
Took it for a spin, the brakes work very nicely ( i bought the ceramic wagner bundle ) but theres a slight grinding noise when driving, like the pads are touching and rubbing a bit too much on the rotor, but the driving is unnafected. Also, there's a sqealing noise coming from either side when you turn only.
Braking itself produces no noise whatsoever, only when you turn that it squeals.
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I have a 2010 S with 70,000 miles. At 60,000 miles, just after the warranty ran out on me, I started to get a gear grinding noise for approximately one second immediately following a cold startup. It doesn't happen all the time, but I'd say once out of every eight starts on cold mornings after it's been sitting. I researched the issue pretty extensively and it seems to narrow down to the cam timing gear being the issue or a bad starter relay. The 2009's had a TSB for the issue being a cam timing gear, but the dealer assures me that my vehicle is not one of the ones covered by the TSB.
I'm inclined to try the relay fix, since a new relay is only $60. The thing is, I would hate to install the part and find out that the issue remains and then be out $60. Any identical relay elsewhere in the car that I can swap it with to see if that work. Of course, if the relay is bad, I'd be breaking something else possibly. Or, even better, is there a way to test the relay to see if is the cause of the problem?
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...... 2010 Corolla LE 1.8L ...... View the video I uploaded ....... The noise is seems to be getting worse. My first thought is the bearings in the water pump may have failed. I'm also thinking that there isn't adequate lubrication near the gear assembly or the belt. Could there be a problem with the tension in the belt?
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I just bought a 2010 corolla xrs. I'm wondering what type of fuel it actually requires. The manual said 87+ octane but everywhere that I read online is saying premium is the way to go for max performance. Is this true??
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla and it's making a loud grinding metallic noise on the front left side. It does it while I drive the faster I go the louder it gets. When I turn to the left it makes it louder, when I turn right the noise decreases. PG&E have been breaking the roads by where I live and there's a lot of little rocks I drive thru. I'm wondering if that's the problem?? What do I do?
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I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
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I'm having some issues with my sunroof on my 2010 Corolla: the switch seems to be unresponsive, but if I push the button several times, the sunroof will open up (this happens with both the slide and the tilt function).
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I was installing the footwell lights and now the headlights on buzzer does not work. And when I press the lock/unlock button on the key fob, the corolla actually locks and unlocks the car WHILE the doors are open! Also, the key in ignition buzzer doesn't work as well!
The seatbelt buzzer works though. I don't know what to do and I want those Features back!
What happened is that I was trying to zip tie the led strip on the metal bar under the steering wheel behind the panel with the tire reset switch. I guess the + & - terminals touched the metal thing and there was a little spark! The dome Lights work and so do the foot wells! But the buZZER doesn't!
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So the grind in 3rd gear is getting pretty bad. I have to put it into third slowly and 4th sometimes grinds a bit. Could it be the slave or master cylinder?
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Subject Vehicle: 2013 Corolla LE
I have a 1993 Base, a 2006 LE, a 2007 LE, and a 2013 LE. All of them Except the 2013 have automatic headlights. That is: you get into the car, start the engine, and drive away with the headlights on. Then later when you turn off the key and get out of the car the headlights are either automatically off or go off soon after.
But on the 2013 the headlights just stay on or off unless manually switched on or off with the stalk switch. Am I missing something here? Why would the 2013 LE Not have this very convenient feature when even my 1993 Base model with zero options Does have it?
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I just recently picked myself up a 13' Corolla CE! Love it but have found some quirks that Im just wondering if this is normal with other 13' owners. Car has roughly 3000km on it so far.
-When I start the car, it almost sounds like my speakers 'pop' once I let off turning my ignition. Its not a extremely loud pop, but loud enough to make one think, "what the heck was that?" Have others had that issue
-Recently, its been a bit colder here (-3 Celsius). I have noticed it takes roughly 5 minutes of continued driving for the engine to warm up to normal operating temperature. Is that normal? Should it warm quicker than that? Its almost like the thermo is stuck slightly open.
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Is there any way to change the sound the car makes when you have your key in the ignition? I have various audio samples and once of them is a females voice saying "command codes verified". I want to have this sound bite 'chime' when I put the key in the ignition.
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My master window switch stop working. All of the other window switches work from the other doors. The driver side one will not work any of the windows. the power lock works but I cannot control any of the windows from the driver side.
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We got a 15 F150 yay for her but I got stuck with her 113k.
So the engine makes a chain grinding sound on cold start ups and the tranny is slipping pretty hard.
Can I swap a 2.4 with a 5spd without doing a bunch of wiring?
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I haven't been on in a while due to my laptop breaking on me well recently i purchased the V3 triton switchback from vleds as well as just red V3 triton leds. After the install i blew my flasher fuse which i replaced then when i attempted it again i must have blown something else because my corner lights no longer go on and when i turn my lights on i no longer get the sign on the cluster notifying me that they are on. I have removed the lights and the issue was i did not order ck socket adapter. So what i have done so far is checked all fuses and i have nothing burned under the driver side and under the hood. I must have looked over everything 10 times checked all fuses with a test light and i don't see anything with DRL or Corner lights labeled anywhere on the fuse panels. Is it possible i burned the module DRL module?
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