Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Fired Up Then Shuddered And Stalled After Idle
Apr 20, 2016
A few weeks ago when I started my Matrix(Automatic) it fired up then shuddered and stalled. It did this two more times. The fourth time as soon as I started it I give pressure on the gas pedal until it stayed running when idling. I was unsure if it was because I parked in a garage overnight when it's normally parked outside. It didn't happen again after that so I wasn't extremely concerned.
Today while driving I had a scary incident. I was waiting to turn in an intersection and went to accelerate before another car came through and the car lost power and almost stalled. I was a bit panicked in the moment but I don't remember hearing the engine rev and didn't have power. I released the pedal and when I pressed it the next time it accelerated. I'll check exactly how many km there are but I believe it's around 124,000.
Does this sounds like a fuel pump problem? I had to have my transmission replaced around 100,000 because it was clunking and I would have times I would lose power to my wheels while highway driving.
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I have a 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed manual and it has started to idle low (sometimes), under 600 rpm and i know that's not normal... I bought it brand new and it has 75k miles
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Just bought a used 09 Corolla LE with 89K miles on it. I noticed a subtle rough idle when I come to a stop light and especially noticeable when in reverse. Here are the things I've tried so far:
- TB and fuel system cleaned at Instant Valvoline
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with a MAF sensor cleaner
- Replaced the spark plugs with OEM plugs
- Replaced air filter
- New water pump
- Bled the coolant system
I also took it to the dealership and had them checked the PCV and the timing chain tensioner replaced. And of course their response was they couldn't replicate the problem. They also said if there's anything wrong with the O2 sensors, the IAC or the TB system, it will throw an error code. So they basically charged me about $100 to tell me there's nothing they could do and just put up with it until the check engine light come on.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with 130k miles and started developing what felt like a slight misfire at idle. Dealer suggested change the plugs and if not that try the coils. So I got the wrong plugs givin to me there 5/8s not 14mm. I found a socket that worked and thought the old ones where the same as the new ones.
The 5/8 socket fell right in and knew it wasn't the right size after the plug wasn't tuning. Then I searched and found out there 14mm plugs. So now the socket is stuck inside the metal tube that goes into the head. I tried a locking extensions, long needle nose, hook with a slide hammer, pb blaster, heat, crc freeze off. Even tried spinning it as pulling up with an impact.
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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My wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
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Basically when the car is in D and when i am stopped with the brakes pressed on at a stop sign or a red light, the car starts vibrating and i can see the the rpm going down and then receiving back up and going down again something when the car is in R. its a 2009 toyota corolla le 90k miles. when the headlights are on, the rpm stays high so the car does not vibrate or anything. other than this the car runs perfectly fine.
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There is one thing that i find weird, i hear a noise that sounds timed grr grr grr grr when the car is at idle. moreover, i hear this grr grr grr noise after the car has been driven for a while, when the engine is cold, I do not hear anything. also this timed grr grr grr noise is only heard from inside the car, but it is definitely coming from the engine area. the sound comes and goes, performance has not changed but the sound is really bothering me every time I stop at a light. i do not hear it while the car is in motion or while accelerating only at idle. Is this the water pump...
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Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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I changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
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I have a 2010 corolla with 32k miles, automatic transmission. I have an intermittent low idle issue when it rained or when it is below freezing 32F. It happens when I am in drive and about to brake to a complete stop. The idle dips to around 500 rpm, the engine shudders and the car shakes then after a second or two, the engine idle goes back up to 800 rpm. There is no engine concerns at any other speed just at idle. I have no CEL codes. The engine never stalls. Low idle when braking.
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I have a 2009 with the 2.4L, 130Kmiles. I have engine shudder at idle and upon deceleration only. No check engine light so no codes-ran a hand held scanner no codes. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, pulled the spark plugs/coils and swapped them around- still getting shudder and no check engine light. Only thing I noticed is the spark plugs were dry to very wet with oil going right to left. Car was parked on level ground. I am completely stumped.
Other thing is I just got the car back from the dealers to fix the clock spring airbag recall, and the vsc light popped up on the drive home. I did call them but afraid the car will not make it there and my wallet might go on a severe diet after. Out of warranty and dealer said if it is their doing because they knock something loose while fixing the airbag clock spring there will be no charge otherwise it's 129 just to look.
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I think I resolved the idle issue on my 2009 Corolla S with 82,500 miles and Automatic Transmission.
Symptoms:
Idled at between 600 and 800 rpms
Annoying vibration in drive and reverse, no vibration in park or neutral
On hard stops, the engine felt like it was going to die
Turning on the a/c would cause the idle to increase to 1000 rpms and the vibration would go away.
At 82,500 miles, I cleaned the throttle body which was extremely dirty.
Process:
Disconnect the positive battery cable
Remove the top of the air box and flex duct going to the throttle body
Disconnect the two coolant lines going to the throttle body, make sure and have a few old bolts to plug the lines so you do not lose too much coolant
Remove the electrical connector to the throttle body
Remove the vacumn line to the valve cover
Remove 2 bolts and 2 nuts (10mm) securing the throttle body to the intake.
The throttle body does not have a gasket, it is an o-ring which should be fine.
Once you have the throttle body off of the engine, clean it thoroughly with Chemtool throttle body cleaner.
The inside of the throttle body and throttle plate should look like shiny milled aluminum. when done.
Spray chemtool into the two ports where the antifreeze lines were connected. If possible use compressed air to blow out these ports.
Clean the inside of the intake and the mesh screen where the throttle body bolts to the intake.
Reassemble, connect the battery, crank the engine and just let it idle for a good 10 minutes
The 2009 Corolla S DOES NOT have a serviceable IAC. It is riveted on to the throttle body. This is why it is important to spray the cleaner in the antifreeze ports in order to clean it. These ports are the antifreeze bypass ports.
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It is very cold here today about 10F. I started my 2009 Corolla about half hour ago just to make sure it would start. Started fine let it run at fast idle for awhile and shut it off. Went back out to start it again to head out and it will only run very briefly, maybe 1 second or so and then cuts off. It will continue to do that but will start and run normally. I tried for about 10 minutes but didn't want to run down the battery. I hope it is just the cold weather.
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I have a 2010 corolla s and I started to notice that when I was at red lights with the car in drive my rpm's would drop to around 600 but it would only do it randomly, or so i thought until one day I was at a light and turned the ac on and my rpm's went back up to 800 so I turned it off and the rpm's dropped again, turned on the headlights and they went back up.
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Having problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
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My car was shaking badly during idle and the Engine and VSC Off lights came on simultaneously. I took it to a local garage (not dealership) and they said that there is anti-freeze leaking into a cylinder. They said the only way to clean it out/fix it is to first remove the entire engine from the car so it could be worked on. It will cost a total of $2,700. My engine has 141,000 miles on it so they said this may be risky since it is so used. They said for $3,500 they could swap it with an engine that only has 31,000 miles on it (and a 6 month guarantee.) By numbers this sounds like a no brainer (I am assuming?) but I am curious if swapping the engines would be worth it seeing as the rest of the car has still traveled 141,000 miles. I have kept it in good condition and such though. I am also curious if the engine really does need to be removed to fix this sort of problem or it it could be done cheaper.
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So following my everlasting bad luck with car problems...I've been noticing a very rough idle in my 2010 Corolla. It has 84k miles. It's only occasionally, not even every time that I'm idling. When I am stopped at a red light though, it'll start to shake for a few seconds, and then it kind of sounds like something "cleared" through something and then it idles fine. This will happen a few times until I start to accelerate again. It does not occur when I'm in neutral, and isn't as strong when I'm in park but it is kind of still there.
I've also been noticing a high pitched whine when I am accelerating at a constant speed. It's there when I am speeding up, then it gets worse as I stay at one speed. It does also make a bit of a "bum bumbum" sound (best way I can put it.) I went to an auto shop and they drove it around for a few minutes and said I need two new tires on the front. The tires, appearance wise, are fine though and they agreed to that. I took it to Discount Tire for a second opinion, they said the tires looked fine and wouldn't sell me new ones. They did say that from what I described it sounds like bad wheel bearings. Took it in, filled them up with air and balanced them. The sounds are still there.
After looking at videos, my car doesn't sound the same as ones with bad wheel bearings. It does not make any noise when turning. I would notice, since I JUST had both the front CV axles replaced. I'm not sure if maybe both of these are related at all. I still need to bring my Corolla in to have some sort of cover replaced that is leaking oil (forget what it's called) that I have to pay a $100 deductible on at my Toyota dealership. I'm not very car savvy and hate going into an auto shop, especially as a girl, not knowing what I need exactly.
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2012 Corolla S 5 speed manual. Just bought the car in September. CPO with 19k miles on it when purchased. Now it has 22k miles. The "problem" is as follows:
After driving the car around for some time, meaning fully warmed-up, when I come to a stop at a light the engine's idle speed will slowly drop from about 800 (where it's as smooth as glass and I can't even tell the engine is running) to about 650-600 and there's a noticeable shudder in the wheel and in the whole car. It lasts for a few seconds then the RPM goes back to normal - just as if it's correcting itself. This happens with nothing running except the radio. No fan, no A/C, nothing.
The only thing I could think is that the radiator fan is kicking on and causing the alternator to work harder? Considering this is a manual is it safe to rule out any kind of transmission issue?
I didn't notice it when I test drove the car, and honestly, the car I was driving before made so much racket that this Corolla sounds like a luxury car by comparison.
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The fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
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My son's 2010 Toyota Corolla S made a "rattling ticking sound at idle" twice this week.
I can't duplicate it, the oil level is fine and everything is working.
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