Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Engine Temp Slowly Rise When Stuck In Traffic For A Few Minutes (Idle / Braking)
May 27, 2014
I've noticed that in the past week or so, whenever I'm stuck in traffic for a few minutes, the engine temp will slowly rise. it gets really bad if traffic is crawling; the temp has reached that 2nd highest line before the red area.
Whenever I get going again and hit the gas, the temp drops. What it is?
Car is currently at 86k miles. I don't believe the water pump has been replaced yet.
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2012 Corolla S 5 speed manual. Just bought the car in September. CPO with 19k miles on it when purchased. Now it has 22k miles. The "problem" is as follows:
After driving the car around for some time, meaning fully warmed-up, when I come to a stop at a light the engine's idle speed will slowly drop from about 800 (where it's as smooth as glass and I can't even tell the engine is running) to about 650-600 and there's a noticeable shudder in the wheel and in the whole car. It lasts for a few seconds then the RPM goes back to normal - just as if it's correcting itself. This happens with nothing running except the radio. No fan, no A/C, nothing.
The only thing I could think is that the radiator fan is kicking on and causing the alternator to work harder? Considering this is a manual is it safe to rule out any kind of transmission issue?
I didn't notice it when I test drove the car, and honestly, the car I was driving before made so much racket that this Corolla sounds like a luxury car by comparison.
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I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
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I've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
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So I've had my car for just a little over 3 years and it has 28,000 miles on it. I always use Shell gas and fill it up before it goes under the quarter tank mark every time. I take very good care of it, and I've loved it. I constantly get upper 30 mpg in city driving and mid to upper 40s on highway.
Recently, I have had an issue where for the past week. One morning, it started rough and got bad mpg for a few mins until the engine "burped" (best way I can describe it). Then it was fine.
I felt this same surge or "burp" 2 times after that. It doesn't speed up or anything, the RPMs drop for a second and come back up as if something is pulling power away. I still get amazing gas milage (39.2mpg and I filled up 2 days ago). It just surges. I don't understand. I take very good care of it! I looked online and apparently its an issue that some others are having. What could it be?
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I have a 2009 with the 2.4L, 130Kmiles. I have engine shudder at idle and upon deceleration only. No check engine light so no codes-ran a hand held scanner no codes. Cleaned the MAF with MAF cleaner, pulled the spark plugs/coils and swapped them around- still getting shudder and no check engine light. Only thing I noticed is the spark plugs were dry to very wet with oil going right to left. Car was parked on level ground. I am completely stumped.
Other thing is I just got the car back from the dealers to fix the clock spring airbag recall, and the vsc light popped up on the drive home. I did call them but afraid the car will not make it there and my wallet might go on a severe diet after. Out of warranty and dealer said if it is their doing because they knock something loose while fixing the airbag clock spring there will be no charge otherwise it's 129 just to look.
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I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
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I have a 2011 CE Corolla, automatic, with only 4800 km, and since a week, I hear a noise coming from the right side (passenger side)of the car, coming form the wheels when the car moves very slowly. It's a kind of toc toc toc sound. When the car isn't moving, there is no sound. So it has to be a moving part.
When I drive faster I don't hear it, but when I slow down to walking speed, with my windows up and the radio and fan off, I can hear the cloc cloc sound, and I'm not sure if its coming from the front or back wheel.
I tried rotating my tires myself to see if all was good and tight, and I saw nothing abnormal.
Even when I'm barely advancing, like half the speed of a person walking, I can hear the cloc cloc sound.
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The fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
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I bought a use 2009 Matrix S 2.4L (2AZ-FE) with about 81000 miles on it. when the car is at idle i hear a light tapping sound on the passenger side. It sounds like the engine but am not sure what it might be. What is causing the tapping sound and how to fix it? (i saw some ppl post about the OCV.) The car also has a light vibration when am at a stop n in gear. Its annoying because i bought a car not a tractor.
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Whenever i brake i can hear a loud squeal, does that mean its time to change my brakes? Its crazy because i have a 2011 corolla but already have 27,000 miles on it. The squeal is louder when it rains....
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I have an '09. Experience a shakiness/shaking when the car slows down to a stop? Like, you slow down to a stop, then the car starts to shake for a few seconds.
I feel like it doesn't happen to me in neutral, which makes me think it is the transmission. Sometimes I get a rough/shaky start as well....
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I purchase my 05 GX470 last April,
Had the timing belt and water pump replaced as part of the deal. Lately in the cooler temperatures around the freezing point I've noticed that the temp gauge does not start to rise until I've driven about five minutes, longer if I go thru a drive thru and the truck is idling in the line up and the heater fan does not come on until I've driven about 10 minutes. The temp gauge takes about 15 -20 minutes of driving till it hits normal or half way on the scale. This seems longer than what I consider normal, at least for the heat to come on.
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My heater is currently stuck on the floor and I cannot get the vents to point to the defrost. I replaced the knob, and still nothing. It appears that the wiring to the knob connects to a wide cylindrical piece that looks loose.
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My 2012 corolla has got about 7500 on it, and recently whenever I turn off the A/C, and keep it running on fan, it smells like old socks or really bad B.O. through the vents. Stays like this for about 5 minutes and goes away.
I heard of spraying Lysol through the air intakes, is it the one right below the windshield wipers? I know I should probably take out the cabin air filter and give that a thorough cleaning as well. Is there anything else I should do to eliminate the smell?It's getting to be pretty bad..
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My rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
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I just recently bought 2012 CorollaS. Great car inside and out with about 20k miles. I've noticed under acceleration and sudden braking a pop is coming from the passenger fender area. I've replaced the motor mount on that side thinking that might have been the issue, but it's still there. What are the torque specs for the motor mount. Maybe it's simply not torqued correctly.
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I get a creaking/clicking noise coming from my front wheels when braking at slow speed. can be rhythmic at times which makes be think it may be a ball joint or bearing.
Also it may be related or unrelated... Between 70-80km/h my front driver side wheel gives off a "Hum". I thought it may have been unbalanced wheels since it started when I put the summer rubber on, but the tire shop said they are balanced and thats not it. The Hum goes away when driving at any other speed.
Just last month I had my brakes done (a couple weeks prior to changing my rubber).
Front: New Rotors, Pads, Shims
Rear: Machined rotors, New Pads & Shims
Brake Flush Performed.
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Temp control is stuck, but when it reaches over 55 degrees or so, it goes back to normal. Have a very slight clicking sound/feel when it is normal. Toyota wants 10 hours labor up front.
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My aunt somehow managed to drop coins that landed on/in the driver's seat track. How would I be able to remove the coins? Also, are there any electric wires I should know of before beginning the process?
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SO I was working on changing my spark plugs on my 66k 10; corolla. I was trying to remove the bolt(holds the cooldown), at first it was hard to wedge it, but slowly I was able to loose it up little by little. ALL the sudden the bolt made a snap noise, half of the bolt(head) came out with the ignition coil, the other half is still stuck in the whole.
I didn't attempt to change the spark plug or work on the other cylinder heads thinking all the bolts may snap off that holds the coil down. I drove my car around and the coil didn't move at all.
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