Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Engine Seems To Momentarily Lose RPM
Apr 25, 2014
Just purchased a 2010 Toyota Corolla S, 41k, automatic. When I'm going down a flat road, at about 30-35 miles per hour, with a constant pressure on the gas pedal, the engine seems to momentarily lose RPM, just for a moment, almost feels like the A/C compressor is kicking in but not quite, another description is it feels like clogged injectors. All other speeds seem to be ok, kicking the throttle to the floor results in smooth acceleration, I'm actually impressed with the amount of power the engine has. Is this normal? Ive purchased some lucas fuel treatment and have added it to the tank. Throttle response seems ok, I've read about throttle controllers however I'm not sure that would fix the problem, if there is one. Hoping it's a characteristic of the vehicle.
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I have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
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I own a 2009 superwhite corolla xrs. I've owned the car now for several months . Ever since I got It, I've heard a noise coming from the engine bay . Sounds like a Metallic rattling .seems to do it in the cold and warm weather . I have a feeling that its the water pump . Every time I take it to the dealer it doesn't make the noise. It's makes the noise on a regular basis . Check out the video... ignore the dirty dash low fuel light... I was parked by a gas station i swear.
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My daughters 2009 will start right up but after about a second it shuts right off we tried it several times and it shuts right down.If you wait for 10 to 20 mins it starts and runs fine.
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My 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
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My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
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A couple weeks ago, my check engine light popped on and I noticed my engine misfire. I happened to be driving by an autozone, so I pulled in and had them check the code. Came back as a misfire on cylinder 4, possibly bad ignition coil or clogged injector. I ran some techron for the next couple of gas tanks, didn't seem to do much, as I would still occasionally get the check engine light.
It has been getting more and more common for it to happen while driving since. Today on the way home from work, it misfired several times in a row and got so bad that I couldn't get above 40mph. This lasted for a minute or two, then cleared up and I made it home without a hitch. Took it back to autozone, same code..Cylinder 4 misfire, probably ignition coil or primary/secondary ignition b fault. I went ahead and bought an ignition coil, came back home and installed. Just took it for a test drive and now I've got the same issue.
I only replaced the one coil that has been throwing a code as misfiring. I did not also replace the spark plug on that cylinder.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8L. It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on or when I try to start it. There are 3 EFI fuses, and all of them are good. There doesn't seem to be an EFI relay (correct me if I'm wrong). I've replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start.
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Installing a remote engine start on corolla? 2013 Corolla with G key specifically.
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I now have 500 Miles on my LE. Driven soft Never over 2,500 rpm except, one time I accelerated to 4,500 RPM in first. Short 5 Mile trips.
Engine knock on start-up (Lasts one second)
sounds like a lifter pumping up.
Only happens occasionally.
Happened last night after driving 40 Miles and parking it for two hours.
Is this normal? I have noticed this since the first 10 Miles on the odometer. Figured it was the 0W-20 Oil.
My friend has a 2003 Echo with 100,000 miles and it does not do this.
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2009 Corolla S 1.8l 85K miles
I have let my wife drive my car over the last couple months because she has a much farther commute to work and needs the A/C since its a more professional job than mine.
I noticed the other day when I drove it that there was a really loud whine coming from the engine. We're both Master's students, so I'm pretty bent on not going to the stealership for anything. Would this be the belts?
Here are the videos I took: [URL] ....
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I have a 2009 Corolla XLE with 207,000 miles on it. For the past few thousand miles, the car has developed a tick when the engine is under load. It cannot be heard when the transmission is in Neutral. The car runs fine at driving speeds, but often idles rough and even dies at stop signs. A local shop says that it needs a timing chain and a phaser. Most of these miles are easy highway miles, I am a little disappointed that the engine would need such a big repair. Anyway, the Haynes Manual claims that the manufacturer recommends pulling the engine / transaxle assembly before changing the timing chain. Need changing the timing chain sprockets with the engine in the car?
2ZR-FE 1.8 vin U engine
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Corolla 2009.. battery died.. jump started it.. alarm went off on my car since i accidentally put my car key in the other car and tried to start the car. Got the alarm to stop after i disconnected the jumper cables.. Now my car won't start after 20 minutes of keeping on the other car with jumper cables.. Light work but stereo and dashboards light wont come up either.. The keyless entry locks the car but does not unlocks it.. When I put my key in the ignition, the security light stops flashing..
My headlights and interiors light work.. The engine is cranking when i try to start it, but wont go fully through..
Model: corolla
Year: 2009
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So basically I woke up one morning, was gonna go to work when I tried to start my corolla nothing happened...tried that couple of times and still nothing ....then couple tries later, you could hear the car try to start but then nothing happens. The check Engine light is on when I try to turn on car
The battery and such seems fine. And I don't recall having any problems before, now even the remote control for the key wont work for the car...
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2009 Matrix 2ZR-FE, briefly rattles on restart after sitting for one hour after reaching running temp. This engine doesn't rattle on a cold startup so I'm wondering what else other than the intake cam gear could cause this. 42,000 miles, 5-20 dino, regular service.
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If your engine coolant is low, do you simply refill? Or do you have to drain/flush and fill?
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So have this 2010 Corolla LE. Been really cold here last while, did not drive for 2 days. Local temperatures around -20C ... Anyways today went to start car after having plug to block heater for 3 hours. Car did not start.
Thinking ignition switch... When I turn key. All lights come on. as normal. but when to try to turn over, no response from engine at all. no engine noise or anything, just see oil light come on and clicking sound.
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I finally caught my engine rattle on audio. Give a listen and tell me what you think this is: [URL] .....
There's a TSB about a rattle on a cold start, but mine never rattles when it's cold. This always happens on a warm restart -- usually about 45 to 75 minutes after I've parked it.
It's been doing this for at least a year, but I've had trouble catching it in the act and, of course, the dealer can't reproduce it. I currently have 37k miles on it. Oil changes completed at 1k, 5k and every 5k after. Using Mobil 1 5W-20 since the second change.
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I have just purchased my first Toyota. Formally a Subaru man. It is a 2009 corolla XLE with 95,000 miles. It is a one owner car in excellent condition and I have all the service records from the Toyota dealer where the work was done.
When I start the car most of the time there is a rattling sound that comes from the engine compartment and lasts just a couple of seconds. In my manual there is something in the ABS section about noises from the ABS system. Could the ABS system be the cause of this noise?
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Just bought a XLE (currently have had the car for 2 weeks and a total of 275miles) and am experiencing a very strange rattle coming from the engine compartment when accelerating very lightly and engine being fully warm (being ran for atleast 15min). The rattle is coming during 2000-2300rpm. Below and above that range, the problem does not occur. The rattling noise sounds as if some metal is grinding on one another. I understand that the Dual VVT-i is notoriously known for it's noise (ticking/tapping of valves, naturally being a 4cyl, and a small amount of "roar" when applying large amount of throttle) but I think this problem I am exhibiting is by far, not normal.
Symptoms/Conditions:
1. Car must be hot/warm (must be driven for atleast 15 minutes)
2. Must be in a drive or reverse direction. Problem does not occur in park or neutral.
3. You have to be acclerating lightly, the engine rattle occurs from 2000rpm - 2300rpm. It's not a tapping or ticking sound but rather a "buzzing" metal to metal grinding.
4. Sounds like the sound is coming from the intake or exhaust systems and the rpm's is causing a natural vibration frequency that is causing a metal part to vibrate (or resonate). Could explain
5. The car doesn't seem to be power limited or anything abnormal. Drives just fine - just a rattling sound that I hate to believe is normal!
I'm under assumption that this is an engineering design flaw! I would encourage you as Toyota Corolla 2009 owners (1.8L, 4spd autos, manuals) to see if you can replicate this issue. Warm your car up, turn off heat/ac & radio (so you can clearly hear the engine), put it in drive, slowly excelerate, and listen as your rpm's increase (noise will only occur at 2000-2300rpm).
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Shifted accidentally from third to second on highway, revved way up and engine shut off, turns over almost started an hour later but didnt want to try to completely start it. still under warranty so how do I get around the OBD reports and get it covered or am I screwed.
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