My friend was told by Toyota that the Air Fuel Sensor code was the reason why her 2010 Corolla VSC and engine lights were on. This was after she visited her mechanic who changed the O2 sensor.
Is there a way to change the Air fuel sensor herself without having to pay Toyota...
I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
I have a 2009 Corolla S w/ 79K miles on it and recently my check engine light came on with the trouble code P0352. The engine would misfire while accelerating and then was extremely rough when at a stop light. This issue and check engine light have been happening intermittently over the last few days. I don't really know anything about engines/cars but doing some research came back with the following...
Possible causes
- Faulty Ignition Coil 2
- Ignition Coil 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Basically my question is how do I troubleshoot and figure out what the real problem is? I would rather not buy and replace the Ignition Coil if it is something else. From everything I have seen it seems the simplest method to test the coil is to switch out the ignition coil and spark plug on coil 2 with one of the other 3 ignition coils and see if the the trouble code follows it or stays on 2.
After taking my 2009 Corolla S to the dealer on 4/07 for an oil change, about 4 or 5 days later the check engine light, the traction control light, and the VSC light come on (VSC off blinks). The first day it came on, I took it to autozone to look the code up and they said it was P0353 (issue with ignition coil c I think). I immediately afterwards drove to the dealer to see what they would say. But after parking in their garage speaking with the greeters, they said the light wasnt on, and asked if I wanted to wait the 2 hours to see a tech. So I took it home.
The code came back about 3 days later, and this time there was a slight stall/jolt for about 4 or 5 seconds. This occured on startup and not during driving. After the 4 or 5 seconds of the mild jolting it felt like it was running smooth. I took it home and after leaving it off for about 20 minutes, the light went out again. A couple days later it came back and stayed on over night and was still present when I started it the next day. It went off again later that day.
My question is what could be causing this that might be a simple fix. Do toyota techs check anything with the spark plugs during normal Oil Changes? I know they checked my brakes but Im not a car guy and am not really sure all that they do. Could it be a loose spark plug? Code P0353 coming up sporadically after dealer Oil change. Is there any steps they normally do during the oil change that could be causing this, like leaving a spark plug loose after checking them or something? Would the coil / wiring harness fall under an engine warranty?
I am far from home. Taking a road trip. Day 2 out of 6. My check engine light came on, so I just pulled over. All fluids were fine. Found some place to read the code:
P2757 TCC pressure control Sol Ckt Perf / Stuck off
The guy said it was something to do with trans.
Check engine light came on. Codes are P0300, P0302, P0304. Plugs were previously changed. Plugs look good. Changed both coils. Light still one. Injectors also previously cleaned. What else should we check for? Valves hanging? Anything else to check for?
View 5 RepliesMy car is now 24/7 with this error which is Vehicle Speed Sensor malfunction an there seems to be no way of solving it, symptoms are:
*Speedometer not working, needle always in 0
*Power steering not working
*Car wont past 3rd gear
*Check engine light and power steering light on
I checked all 4 speed sensors and the wiring looks good and they look good. Also if i hit a bump, issue goes away for a couple of minutes, until i hit another, etc, so looks like a wire or short circuit, cant tell. Is there a speed sensor on the transmission as well? where is located?
Corolla has this code : B1801
When i erase it comes right back!
Open in (D) Squib Circuit. What to start looking for?
So basically I woke up one morning, was gonna go to work when I tried to start my corolla nothing happened...tried that couple of times and still nothing ....then couple tries later, you could hear the car try to start but then nothing happens. The check Engine light is on when I try to turn on car
The battery and such seems fine. And I don't recall having any problems before, now even the remote control for the key wont work for the car...
I am looking at a 2013 S 1.8 with 38k miles... it seems to have oil leaking at or near what looks like the oil pressure sensor, but i have struck out finding a picture of one in place on the engine.
The oil stain is above and behind the harmonic balancer at a sensor that sticks straight out towards the firewall and looks like the oil pressure sensor.
The engine has not been washed and there are no other stains above it. I am more than capable of changing the sensor... if that is what it is. Is this a cause for concern?
Just bought a XLE (currently have had the car for 2 weeks and a total of 275miles) and am experiencing a very strange rattle coming from the engine compartment when accelerating very lightly and engine being fully warm (being ran for atleast 15min). The rattle is coming during 2000-2300rpm. Below and above that range, the problem does not occur. The rattling noise sounds as if some metal is grinding on one another. I understand that the Dual VVT-i is notoriously known for it's noise (ticking/tapping of valves, naturally being a 4cyl, and a small amount of "roar" when applying large amount of throttle) but I think this problem I am exhibiting is by far, not normal.
Symptoms/Conditions:
1. Car must be hot/warm (must be driven for atleast 15 minutes)
2. Must be in a drive or reverse direction. Problem does not occur in park or neutral.
3. You have to be acclerating lightly, the engine rattle occurs from 2000rpm - 2300rpm. It's not a tapping or ticking sound but rather a "buzzing" metal to metal grinding.
4. Sounds like the sound is coming from the intake or exhaust systems and the rpm's is causing a natural vibration frequency that is causing a metal part to vibrate (or resonate). Could explain
5. The car doesn't seem to be power limited or anything abnormal. Drives just fine - just a rattling sound that I hate to believe is normal!
I'm under assumption that this is an engineering design flaw! I would encourage you as Toyota Corolla 2009 owners (1.8L, 4spd autos, manuals) to see if you can replicate this issue. Warm your car up, turn off heat/ac & radio (so you can clearly hear the engine), put it in drive, slowly excelerate, and listen as your rpm's increase (noise will only occur at 2000-2300rpm).
I have a 2010 Corolla. The car is flashing the infamous VSC Off, trac, engine light! The car is still has the powertrain warranty. I was wondering if I should take it to a Toyota dealership.
But I read just getting the diagnostic itself is around $100. I don't want to end up paying for that if the repairs end up being something that's not even covered under the warranty.
I own a 2012 Toyota Corolla S w/ 8700 miles on it I am the first owner. Check engine light blinks on and off 8 times. I cleaned the gas cap threads and neck, then I reset the computer by removing the positive terminal for 1 minute. I also checked the oil it's fine. Light still blinks? I have many years of mechanical back ground, without running codes I don't know this one
View 4 RepliesThe fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
i have Ksport kontrol pros and no mattter how i attach the brake line or abs sensor it rubs! how to rout them. i bought 3/8 heater hose for the brake line and spliced it to make a sleeve. sway bar endlinks used to pinch the ABS against the coilover but now it rubs the cv axle. 09 rolla s
View 2 RepliesMy engine light just went on and the fault codes are:
P0138 -PowerTrain (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2)
P0607 - PowerTrain Control Module Performance
I have just bought Denso 234-4305 Rear Sensor but I was wondering if there are any guides to show where it's located?
The only guides I found is for the 9th Gen Corolla.
The Car has 88k miles on it so I guess it's outside the emissions warranty. Thus what is the price of a new ECU just in case that's the problem?
I am having trouble figuring out what a nut on my 2011 Corolla LE is called, so I am having alot of trouble looking up a solution on my own. There is a bolt above the oil filter and near a sensor that is leaking. I marked it in red in the below picture. I am having trouble looking up what to do without knowing enough about it to search.
View 5 RepliesBoth the P2195 (Oxygen sensor or A/F sensor stuck lean - bank 1 sensor 1) and P0031 (Oxygen sensor heater control circuit low - bank 1 sensor 1) were pulled on my 2009 LE (77K miles). Is it safe to assume that the upstream b1s1 sensor is the culprit?
I believe I've found the OE Denso part 234-9056 - is this the right one?
General question about O2 sensors - is it recommended to replace both the upstream and downstream at the same time, or is it not necessary to do that?
What is the part number to the TPMS sensors for a 2011 Corolla S. Or any stock toyota ones that will work?
View 2 RepliesMy '09 2.4L Vibe has started to leak coolant around the coolant temperature sensor. It seems rather odd to me.
Who makes the OEM model? It shows as GM Part 88975489.
My Corolla has the P0441 code, but not the typical 0445 code that comes with a loose gas cap. I cleared it and it came back (yes, I checked the gas cap). Googling the issue, I found service bulletin SB 0392-08, which implies the ECM could need to be replaced if the issue is not in the Evap system.
View 1 Replies